Shed Truss Question

[Dougryan]

Hi,
I continue to plan my shed. I have an idea to include some covered area outside the shed. At first I was thinking about building the shed and adding a lean-to extension off one side... Then I started to wonder about getting longer roof trusses and extending the covered area that way. See my rough drawing for the idea.



Can I do this with normal (stock) trusses or do they need a special design?
I expect to put posts and a top beam to support the open space end of the truss, not a cantilever roof design.

Thoughts? Any images to share?

Thanks,
Doug

 

[MMalabama]

As long as the post will be carrying the load I would think you could use normal trusses.

 

[Tompet]

Sure it is not uncommon at all. I would suggest going 8’ on the large overhang (porch) with your 15’ enclosed and 1’ overhang on the building with a 24’ truss. Or enclose 16’ with 1’ overhang, 7’ large overhang and same 24’ truss.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

The only way it would be a problem is if the truss was cantilevered out over the edge. Make sure you tell the truss manufacturer where the supports will be and they will happily make you a truss.

 

[Tompet]

The only way it would be a problem is if the truss was cantilevered out over the edge. Make sure you tell the truss manufacturer where the supports will be and they will happily make you a truss.

Good point/advice. Truss co’s usually very helpful wit info.

 

[Snobdds]

That will work, just size the post correctly...

 

[RNeumann]

As stated above- no issue and it will use the same truss. Note the wider the truss the higher the ridge for a given pitch. That may not be an issue for you but for some it’s a factor. If it gets high enough they make storage trusses (no webbing in the middle) for lighter stuff.

As far as the posts and beams. Obviously the more posts the smaller and cheaper the posts and beams are. But the more footings and concrete. In general, posts that are 6-10’ apart seem to be the cheapest option. Of course you can go bigger or smaller depending on your needs or desired look.

 

[fried1765]

Hi,
I continue to plan my shed. I have an idea to include some covered area outside the shed. At first I was thinking about building the shed and adding a lean-to extension off one side... Then I started to wonder about getting longer roof trusses and extending the covered area that way. See my rough drawing for the idea.

View attachment 595336

Can I do this with normal (stock) trusses or do they need a special design?
I expect to put posts and a top beam to support the open space end of the truss, not a cantilever roof design.

Thoughts? Any images to share?

Thanks,


Yes....you can use "normal" trusses but you will need a post under every truss, or a beam supported by posts upon which to rest the trusses.

 

[EddieWalker]

When you buy, or order your trusses, you will tell them how far your span will be. The inside wall does not matter. So the distance from the wall on the right side, and the beam that will sit on the post on the left side is what they will need to know.

With that solid wall sort of in the middle of your span, you could easily build a rafter type roof with the center wall being load bearing. For me, this would be cheaper then buying trusses and then getting the trusses up there.

 

[HillStreet]

If you support the outer edge with a beam and posts you have no issue. If you dont want to do that, design the trusses to bear on the front wall and cantilever over to the front. Easier with the beam and post through.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Truss makers often have engineers on site that will work with your design. I had trusses made up to match an existing barn that I was adding on to where the overhangs were not even and were made with 2x6's. They made the new ones with 2x4's.

I see plenty of Amish barns with overhangs such as the one that you want with no outside posts. Never looked close though to see how the truss was made. I would think that with outside support, adding some 2x4's with gussets over the wall area would provide peace of mind if you just had a standard truss?

 

[dougtrr2]

Just thinking that you will have to make sure you seal off that overhang so critters and weather can't get into the shed.

Doug in SW IA

 

[ray66v]

I would build the building with the 1' overhang, and add a reverse gable for your bigger overhang.

It looks better, and helps make the building look less like a barn.

As far as the trusses in the drawing go, any the interior wall should not be solidly attached to a truss.

The bottom chord of trusses need to be able to move up and down as the load on the roof changes. A truss clip should be used that is slotted so it allows the bottom chord to move up and down, where the walls are attached. Although, sadly many builders don't even know what these clips look like.

Attaching the wall solidly, can result in the trusses pulling the up on the wall, separating the joints in the wall, or pulling it off the floor, called "truss uplift".

The interior wall can also create an unexpected load bearing point on the trusses, if a roof load ends up causing the bottom cord of the trusses to sit on it. Ideally, the interior wall should be entered into the truss manufacturers specifications, so they can locate a brace there.

 

[Snobdds]

As far as the trusses in the drawing go, any the interior wall should not be solidly attached to a truss.

The bottom chord of trusses need to be able to move up and down as the load on the roof changes. A truss clip should be used that is slotted so it allows the bottom chord to move up and down, where the walls are attached. Although, sadly many builders don't even know what these clips look like.

Attaching the wall solidly, can result in the trusses pulling the up on the wall, separating the joints in the wall, or pulling it off the floor, called "truss uplift".

The interior wall can also create an unexpected load bearing point on the trusses, if a roof load ends up causing the bottom cord of the trusses to sit on it. Ideally, the interior wall should be entered into the truss manufacturers specifications, so they can locate a brace there.

I bet hurricane clips drive you nuts...

This goes against everything I've been taught by framers...

 

[/pine]

I bet hurricane clips drive you nuts...

This goes against everything I've been taught by framers...

FYI...Ray's post was one of few that exposed a true understanding of proper truss installation...Ray is exactly right in his explanations etc...(creating inadvertent bearing points on a truss can cause it to fail)

BTW...there is camber built into the bottom chords of most common trusses which would possibly allow it (the bottom chord) to span across interior or other walls built the same height as the walls/beams that the trusses bear on...but only until time causes the camber to dissipate.

 

[KennyG]

While these truss discussions make sense, what about non-load bearing walls? If you have a house with clear span trusses and have interior walls, they have to be anchored to the trusses. Otherwise how would you prevent drywall cracks at the wall/ceiling interface?

 

[/pine]

While these truss discussions make sense, what about non-load bearing walls? If you have a house with clear span trusses and have interior walls, they have to be anchored to the trusses. Otherwise how would you prevent drywall cracks at the wall/ceiling interface?

To quote ray66v..."A truss clip should be used that is slotted so it allows the bottom chord to move up and down, where the walls are attached. Although, sadly many builders don't even know what these clips look like....

Hence the length of pre-cut studs (usually 92 5/8") for interior non load bearing partitions...if the exterior and other bearing walls are 8'

Where ceilings are not dropped...Most framers set long enough nails through partition top plates into the bottom chords or backing blocks (dead wood) where parallel partitions fall between trusses...

 

[Snobdds]

I have never heard of not nailing down trusses to interior walls before. So I went and did some reading. It seems your trading one problem for another with not nailing interior walls.

It appears that some, in fact, do not nail interior walls because of truss uplift. Ok. It also appears those same people eliminate the trust uplift problem, but then they have problems with horizontal movement of the inter walls not being tied into the frame at the top. I think this is a case of over thinking one problem, and not thinking through the bigger picture.

So I still say, nail the truss to the interior walls and keep everything locked together...

 

[/pine]

Here is a typical truss clip that holds interior partitions plumb and prevents lateral movements yet still allows for truss lift etc...

STC/STCT/DTC Roof Truss Clips | Simpson Strong-Tie

 

[MacLawn]

You have a real problem with this shed!! It needs to be at least 3x that size!! ROFCOL (that痴 Crying because I didn稚 build mine as big!).