Is there a way to apply down pressure on a three point hitch

[Farmer495]

. Putting that 11,500 bumper pull trailer on your new Ford Eco-Boom truck with a 13,000 WDH assisted towing capacity makes that 5,600 truck gain weight in the right places so as to pretend that it is a SuperDuty. Without it, the trailer hitch is smashing the rear axle far past design limits

Think there are a few different factors at play, model years and options etc. My Max Tow 11,200lb bumper tow rated ecoboost isn't any worse than my 10,000lb bumper tow rated Super Duty was towing the same trailers. The Max Tow actually sits perfectly level towing, it doesn't sink noticeably lower than my diesel F-250 Super Duty did with the (added) firestone air bags on it being empty. Using WD hitch on one trailer, it's set the same as I had it on the F250, right down to measuring the front wheel clearance before and after.

I am not disputing the F250 has higher payload and is overall a heavier tougher truck with heavier 10.25 Sterling axle etc, but regardless Ford rated one to tow more and said both need WD hitch after 5000 lb of trailer.

I have seen many newer 1/2 tons (RAM, GM, FORD) towing similar size trailers with the rear bumper almost dragging, yet the Max Tow sits level, so not all option packages are equal and they do change how the truck actually works. Not necessarily pretending to be a Super Duty, because it isn't, but made somewhat closer when equipped for those 5 figure tow ratings.

 

[npalen]

I was just thinking that the comments about the weight distribution hitch between a trailer and tow vehicle seems a bit off topic. But, after further thought, it would seem that the mechanical principles of a WD hitch could be applied to a tractor TPH is desired for controlled down pressure. Just a thought and maybe no correlation.
I'm not gigging anyone for going off topic either. I'm as guilty as anyone and lot of of good discussions have gone off topic and become great discussions.

 

[Rustyiron]

Short of just adding more weight, is there any way to apply additional down pressure on an implement?

Back when we were kids, and our parents were not "tractor people" we'd get Larry to stand on the implement. If that was not enough, we'd get Jimmy on there too.:laughing: Weight is good for these things, and like Lou said, play with the top link and or a little angle (ieft or right) as long as one side "leads" the other.

 

[Reb954]

Years ago I had a project for my ATV and implements that required more down pressure on the implement. I couldn't just add weight due to the ATV not handling the extra weight so I built the following. It allowed me to make the implement more effective without adding the weight. It is adjustable so I can vary the amount of down pressure on the implement and it is forgiving so if the ATV back axle dropped into a ditch it would allow the implement to raise up so I could get thru the ditch.

I haven't looked at it to see if the same principles could be applied to a tractor but where a tractor will handle a lot more weight I think I would just add the weight to the implement.

 

[Reb954]

A little follow up, a ditch ran through our front lawn that was a pain to mow around so last summer I decided to fill it in.

I didn't want the tractor on the lawn due to the sprinkler system so I used the tractor to load my ATV dump trailer as shown.

Then I would dump the dirt in the ditch. I use the winch on the back of the ATV to dump the trailer.

Next I used the box blade to spread the dirt and the ATV tires to pack it down.

The finished result.

Very little hand work and it didn't take much time to finish it.

Not sure why the two pictures ended up sideways, I don't know how to fix them.

 

[rfc143]

I solved the problem!!
I built these bars that keep the blade rigid; not boing-ing against the rake tines. Tried it on frozen ground with 2" of snow and it worked great!

 

[art]

I always recommend buying attachments that are ground engaging as heavy as you can. We are an old IH dealer and sold many conversion links for the three point hitch. We also did an lot of work reinforcing the three point hitch attachments because they were not built to handle down pressure!!!

 

[Rock Crawler]

What about adding 400 lbs or so? It makes a massive difference in a box blade...

 

[LouNY]

I always recommend buying attachments that are ground engaging as heavy as you can. We are an old IH dealer and sold many conversion links for the three point hitch. We also did an lot of work reinforcing the three point hitch attachments because they were not built to handle down pressure!!!

It was a shame that IH kept the fast hitch system proprietary if they had let that go market wide.
It was so much superior to the 3 point hitch.
And talk about down pressure put the pins in and jack up a tractor with the drawbar :thumbsup:

 

[MossRoad]

 

[LouNY]

That's a nice video of the Super C with the fast hitch.
Thanks for posting it.
As he said at the end of the video it was a shame it didn't become the standard.

 

[CobyRupert]

Interesting IH quick hitch.
Growing up Green, my Uncle had an odd ball IH 560. Weird beast compared to the Deeres. No fenders, no side hydraulic console, what looked like "after-thought" hydraulic connectors, no foot throttle. ......but now I remember it had no 3PTH either. But it did have a height adjustable hitch /"cross drawbar" that worked off of lift arms lke a 3pth.

Now I'm wondering if the adjustable drawbar also had slots for the IH quick hitch stabs shown on video implements?

We had no IH quick hitch implements, so I wouldn't of realized what I was looking at.

Edit: Found this picture on internet of something similar. Does it looks like the "cross drawbar" was a special attachment that clipped into the IH quick connect slots of the tractor?

 

[buickanddeere]

There are many reasons, first one probably being the cost of entry.

Kinda like saying "If you ever drove a Ferrari you will wonder why you ever considered getting a minivan". No, most people would not be the least bit confused why they're driving a Grand Voyager instead of a LaFerrari.

The loader mount hydraulic unit is not a big ticket item.

 

[npalen]

Years ago I had a project for my ATV and implements that required more down pressure on the implement. I couldn't just add weight due to the ATV not handling the extra weight so I built the following. It allowed me to make the implement more effective without adding the weight. It is adjustable so I can vary the amount of down pressure on the implement and it is forgiving so if the ATV back axle dropped into a ditch it would allow the implement to raise up so I could get thru the ditch.

I haven't looked at it to see if the same principles could be applied to a tractor but where a tractor will handle a lot more weight I think I would just add the weight to the implement.

View attachment 595835

Very interesting idea! Might call it a "modulated down pressure kit".

Edit: The more I think about this the more interesting I find it! I don't see why the same principles couldn't be applied to a tractor 3PH.

 

[npalen]

Couple questions on the IH quick hitch: How is the side-to-side tilt achieved and how does it get around not having a top link for adjusting fore-aft? Anyone know?

While on the subject of Farmall Super's, here is an interesting video:
Farmall Hydra-Creeper Explained - Super A - YouTube

 

[dnw64]

The loader mount hydraulic unit is not a big ticket item.

"Big" ticket is relative. Especially if you already have a functional 3pt one.

 

[zzvyb6]

Run a cable from your loader to the back draw bar and use a pulley to run it upward. A linear garage door spring can be used if you need some position freedom. As you raise the loader, the cable pulls the implement downward.

 

[LouNY]

Couple questions on the IH quick hitch: How is the side-to-side tilt achieved and how does it get around not having a top link for adjusting fore-aft? Anyone know?

While on the subject of Farmall Super's, here is an interesting video:
Farmall Hydra-Creeper Explained - Super A - YouTube

I never used one with the side to side tilt. Saw a few on the smaller tractors it was an expensive option in addition to the fast hitch option.
It worked off an elliptical type unit mounted up under the fuel tank that went down to the front of the lift arms.
I can recall 3 styles of fast hitch, a two armed small, a larger 2 armed unit and a single armed one.
I'm thinking the single arm was only on the 100 and maybe the 200 models.
The other small tractors up to the 340's I believe had the small 2 arm style.
I believe the 300 may have been optional on the small or large arms.
The 400's , 460's, 560's and 656's with the fast hitch used the large arms.
The front portion of the wish bone of the hitch was mounted up under the tractor and was the pivot point,
the arms coming back to the lift point had a flex joint that could be pined to have down pressure or unpined to float.
One side had a crank adjuster for leveling. If you look at the picture that CobyRupert has posted you can see the arms and lift actuator.
The draw bar in that picture is the fast hitch draw bar with hitch plate bolted to it we usually only had one hitch plate on ours.
With those arms there was no need for a center link the arms supported the implement.
With the pins in to provide down pressure you could roll a block of wood under one side of the draw bar and jack up the tractor,
to change the tire spacing for plowing or cultivating or stability. Or even repair or change a tire.

 

[Rustyiron]

I solved the problem!!
I built these bars that keep the blade rigid; not boing-ing against the rake tines. Tried it on frozen ground with 2" of snow and it worked great!

Nice work & :thumbsup:fix

 

[npalen]

I never used one with the side to side tilt. Saw a few on the smaller tractors it was an expensive option in addition to the fast hitch option.
It worked off an elliptical type unit mounted up under the fuel tank that went down to the front of the lift arms.
I can recall 3 styles of fast hitch, a two armed small, a larger 2 armed unit and a single armed one.
I'm thinking the single arm was only on the 100 and maybe the 200 models.
The other small tractors up to the 340's I believe had the small 2 arm style.
I believe the 300 may have been optional on the small or large arms.
The 400's , 460's, 560's and 656's with the fast hitch used the large arms.
The front portion of the wish bone of the hitch was mounted up under the tractor and was the pivot point,
the arms coming back to the lift point had a flex joint that could be pined to have down pressure or unpined to float.
One side had a crank adjuster for leveling. If you look at the picture that CobyRupert has posted you can see the arms and lift actuator.
The draw bar in that picture is the fast hitch draw bar with hitch plate bolted to it we usually only had one hitch plate on ours.
With those arms there was no need for a center link the arms supported the implement.
With the pins in to provide down pressure you could roll a block of wood under one side of the draw bar and jack up the tractor,
to change the tire spacing for plowing or cultivating or stability. Or even repair or change a tire.

Thanks for the info. Never too old to learn. I still don't understand, however, if there was any adjustment for front-to-back tilt and, if not, how an implement such as a moldboard plow could be adjusted to run level front to back.