Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt.

   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #1  

MGH PA

Gold Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2010
Messages
280
Location
Northcentral, PA
Tractor
2005 Gravely 148Z 48" ZTR
Like the title says, I will attempt this. I was debating whether or not to do it, but I really enjoyed all of the time I scoured the builds posted on here in the past, so I figured I would try. Plus, I'm sure many of you can point out mistakes we're making along the way :)

This thread will not be updated daily, but I will do my best to provide updates throughout the process.

So, a quick back story:

My wife and I have two kids, we live about two miles from where we're building. We've outgrown our current home, and always wanted a little more land. It just so happens, my father was able to buy the farm the borders theirs a year and a half ago, and we subdivided and purchased 25 acres off of them from that parcel. It's typical northern PA topography of ridges, valleys, farmland, etc. The 25 acres I purchased is primarily timber (including the building site) which made from some major work getting the lot cleared. Additionally, the best access route for the property was across my parents existing farm due to minor elevation change, and sheer openness of it all. We're surrounded by and additional 200 acres between my parents old farm and new farm, so we will have plenty of privacy.

A look at our back yard:

site_summer.jpg

building lot.jpg

We're build a single story with a walkout basement. About 2900 sq.ft. We're doing ICF for the basement, R10 subslab (most likely Nudura or Creatherm panels), NuWool in the main walls and ceiling (R49 ceiling with raised heel trusses). Debating on whether to go Geo or variable speed ASHP at this point. We have no NG, and I don't want to deal with propane or oil.

firstfloor.jpgsecondfloor.jpg


elevations.jpg

The first job started back in March of 2018. We began initial clearing for the septic testing and driveway. We did everything with two guys, two saws, and a JD 990 :). Below is a few shots of the progress we made:

The building when we started:

road_build3.jpeg

The driveway is almost a 1/2 mile long, about 950ft of that needed cleared, the rest covers existing ag fields.

Dad cutting on the new road this summer. The bugs and humidity made this really fun.

road_build.jpegroad_build2.jpeg

We took a lot of timber out. This is just one pile of two of pole wood. Saw logs were taken and sold.

timber.jpeg

The building site as it stood this past fall:

site.jpeg

Once everything froze up a bit, we brought out the big guns, and had our driveway cut in:

driveway.jpgdozer.jpegdriveway2.jpeg

The excavator put in between 10-12" of shale, and only did a quick topcoat of 2b for the last 100ft to cut down on mud hitting the township road. We will finish the road once construction is all finished.

As of right now, the well is dug, the permits are issued, and we're just waiting on the bank. Hoping to break ground in mid May.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #2  
Absolutely gorgeous scenery. I'm in the northern tip of VA where it meets MD and WV, so it looks just like home. I look forward to following this build. The amount of sweat equity that you have already put in is admirable. They certainly aren't making more land, so it's great that your family has been able to acquire so much.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #5  
Nice view. Cant wait to see the build pics.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #6  
For my opinion I would only consider geo on a new home. The most cost effective is to go horizontal trench which you have the land for. My own 2800 sq-ft home was a 500' trench, 5-6' deep, with 4 pipes in the trench. You possibly could trench it yourself, and put the pipes in. That would go a long way to lowering your cost. Given new construction, you will need to finish off a yard, so the trenching would have no real effect. You will be paying for ducting in either case, so the maid price difference is the geo unit, piping and some fill materials.

Geo will always out do an ASHP, even with the high SEER numbers on some units. No backup heat needed, although putting in the elements is low cost and a very good idea in case of a failure.

Read my geo posting: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/74680-geothermal-heat-pump-project.html

Paul
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt.
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Dropped the first load of lumber off at a local mill to have our flooring made. No stickers as we neglected to load ours when we took down the piles at our house thinking the owner would have some. Turns out he wasn't home, so excuse the poor stacking. They will be moving this into their shop soon, so not too worried. This is all timber harvested off our land. White oak, with a little red mixed in. We will be doing 3,4, and 5" widths. Site finished. About 800bf here. Another 800 or so to go yet.

flooring.jpg
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #9  
Beautiful place, MGH. I'm sure your kids will love growing up there. (and nice Tundra!)

We've had a horizontal geo system for 21 years and really like it. We burn a wood stove, too.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #10  
I'm looking forward to following your progress.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #11  
Looking good so far. I am 2 counties east of you in Luzerne. Very satisfying work. We did it first with a mobile home as a weekend place and then built a home there to retire in. Have 283 acres here and 60 in Columbia county. Enjoy!
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt.
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Looking good so far. I am 2 counties east of you in Luzerne. Very satisfying work. We did it first with a mobile home as a weekend place and then built a home there to retire in. Have 283 acres here and 60 in Columbia county. Enjoy!

Thank you! 283 acres sounds amazing!
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt.
  • Thread Starter
#13  
First major design question. Our contractor is in the process of getting trusses designed and ordered. He asked if we wanted to convert to raised heel trusses. It’s about a 20% markup, and while I know some of the advantages (we’re doing Cellulose in the ceiling), the markup seems a bit high (about a $5000 to $6000 up charge). Additionally, it appears there’s a little extra work and things to consider on the framing side when using ravished heel trusses.

Not sure if I would live to see a return on that with the energy savings. Then again, it’s one of those things where to get one chance to do it. Thoughts?
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #14  
Sounds like a large chunk to try and recover from a few inches of insulation just along the edges of the roof. We used blown in fiberglass, R44, on our build in 2007. Also did the blow in in the walls, works fantastic with no drafts. Our home is very energy efficient.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #15  
Love that view.Good luck keep us updated.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #16  
I though on your first post you said you were getting raised heel trusses? I know when I did my addition, I had to have R38 over the wall top plate. Just make sure you are able to meet the energy code with whatever truss design you chose.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #17  
First major design question. Our contractor is in the process of getting trusses designed and ordered. He asked if we wanted to convert to raised heel trusses. It’s about a 20% markup, and while I know some of the advantages (we’re doing Cellulose in the ceiling), the markup seems a bit high (about a $5000 to $6000 up charge). Additionally, it appears there’s a little extra work and things to consider on the framing side when using ravished heel trusses.

Not sure if I would live to see a return on that with the energy savings. Then again, it’s one of those things where to get one chance to do it. Thoughts?

That up charge would pay for a spray foam job (roof) and make the raised heel irrelevant and probably result in a better overall insulation value. Points to consider. Beautiful site:thumbsup:
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #18  
First major design question. Our contractor is in the process of getting trusses designed and ordered. He asked if we wanted to convert to raised heel trusses. It’s about a 20% markup, and while I know some of the advantages (we’re doing Cellulose in the ceiling), the markup seems a bit high (about a $5000 to $6000 up charge). Additionally, it appears there’s a little extra work and things to consider on the framing side when using ravished heel trusses.

Not sure if I would live to see a return on that with the energy savings. Then again, it’s one of those things where to get one chance to do it. Thoughts?

I like the idea of more space for insulation, but in my opinion, you will never notice the difference in energy savings.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #19  
Seems really high just for raised heel feature. It adds maybe 10 board feet to each truss with 2 extra plate fasteners depending on design.

But kudos to your site and thanks for sharing. Looking forward to watching.

I like whoever said that the $5-6K could pay for spray foam.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt.
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Ok,

I need to make a decision on my basement slab insulation. I know I want to insulate it, but whether to use Nudura panels (I was quoted about $1.53/sq.ft for these), or just go with regular EPS? I'm still torn as to whether I'm going to run lines for future hydronic since the consensus on GBA seems to say it's a waste in a high efficiency home. But part of me thinks that if I'm going through the trouble of lying panels down either way, the extra $1000 in pex can future proof and give me the hydronic option in the future if I want.

Looking at about $7000 for the Nudura and Pex.
 

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