Just joined the grey market Yanmar club

[clemsonfor]

This could affect the way you load and unload the tractor. I have 2 different trailers, one has a sold ramp that flips up and the other has 2 separate ramps (car trailer) and that one makes it difficult to load, you have to be exact on how you space them apart because only half or less of the front tires are on the ramps as you go up or down them. I would try to 2 more ramps if I would continue to use that trailer or find one that has a sold ramp. The only reason I use the car trailer is when I am transporting my tiller for a job and when I have my R1s on at the same time, which isn't very often.

This is good info here. I have a dovetail car hauler I use with separate individual ramps. I trailer maybe once or twice a year max. And can load without ramps at farm backing to the edge of the highway ditch and just driving on. At my house I can just drive off as well. And technically if I crank it way up in the front I can drive on without ramps

 

[California]

...I attached the fill chart for Rimguard...

Thanks for the chart. As I recall there was an additional obstacle to getting Rimguard locally: They wanted it installed only by their franchised dealers and you (or a tire shop) couldn't just order buckets shipped from them. That was 10+ years ago so maybe that has changed.

 

[Thomas]

:welcome: to TBN Andy...enjoy.

 

[Andy1969]

:welcome: to TBN Andy...enjoy.

Thanks! Been on for a little while since I bought my Mahindra but just started on the Yanmar form since I just bought the 2210DB. Really looking forward to using it now that the weather in Northwest PA is finally looking like spring. I’m picking up a 4 foot brush hog that needs a new gearbox this weekend. So I plan to get that ready for mowing my field this season. I think the 2210 will be great for running it. I’ll let you know how it works once it’s ready.

 

[Jtullis13]

Thanks for the chart. As I recall there was an additional obstacle to getting Rimguard locally: They wanted it installed only by their franchised dealers and you (or a tire shop) couldn't just order buckets shipped from them. That was 10+ years ago so maybe that has changed.

There are 3 places close to here where you can have your tires filled. I don't think you can just order it and put it in yourself. One of the dealers will come to your place and put it in or you can take your tractor or the tires there and he is very reasonable on prices too. I don't how it works in other states and such, but I am glad this guy is fairly close to where I am.

 

[clemsonfor]

There are 3 places close to here where you can have your tires filled. I don't think you can just order it and put it in yourself. One of the dealers will come to your place and put it in or you can take your tractor or the tires there and he is very reasonable on prices too. I don't how it works in other states and such, but I am glad this guy is fairly close to where I am.

I'd love to have someone that did it close. I'd probably load up my tractor no second thoughts to have it done

 

[California]

I'd love to have someone that did it close. I'd probably load up my tractor no second thoughts to have it done

For how I use tractors - rototilling, mowing, minor earthmoving, and loader work - but not plowing - added traction would be nice. But I found when I loaded my oversize tires on the YM240 to the practical maximum, the tractor was much slower going up the grades in my orchard. Generally one gear lower, and it needed more frequent stops to shift down. After I put on the ROPS I drained the excess. Water level had been with the valve at the top, water level now is with valve at the bottom. This restored the power-to-weight ratio that I liked better. For plowing row crops or something then I would ballast to max but I didn't like the slowness in general utility tractor use.

 

[clemsonfor]

For how I use tractors - rototilling, mowing, minor earthmoving, and loader work - but not plowing - added traction would be nice. But I found when I loaded my oversize tires on the YM240 to the practical maximum, the tractor was much slower going up the grades in my orchard. Generally one gear lower, and it needed more frequent stops to shift down. After I put on the ROPS I drained the excess. Water level had been with the valve at the top, water level now is with valve at the bottom. This restored the power-to-weight ratio that I liked better. For plowing row crops or something then I would ballast to max but I didn't like the slowness in general utility tractor use.

I have only a single hill that you describe that would tax the tractor. It's in the yard so the only time would be a rare use of a finish mower which I don't use anymore in the yard. You also have those over size tires and I have the small ricers. My math on the gallons I used in my two tires put my added weight I was thinking in the 180# range. Which is weight but I don't believe it does anything but help when I use the box blade or disk harrow. Well one negative is that it probably worsens the tracks made in the wet yard. But those were bad anyway before.

 

[California]

Note the water level in the tank. The little YM186D with its Powershift is more productive on these slopes for its ability to keep moving and shift up/down without a full stop.

 

[Jtullis13]

I do have some hills too, my 2210d doesn't seem to have a problem with the added weight yet, but I have noticed a little difference in my much smaller 155d with the added weight going up hills, however the added weight really helped the 155d when I was using it for snow removal, so it was worth it to me so far.

And Clemsonfor, the guy that came to my place to fill my tires with Rimgaurd, his service fee was $20....Well worth it for me because it would have cost me more to go to him and have it done.