Just joined the grey market Yanmar club

[clemsonfor]

I do have some hills too, my 2210d doesn't seem to have a problem with the added weight yet, but I have noticed a little difference in my much smaller 155d with the added weight going up hills, however the added weight really helped the 155d when I was using it for snow removal, so it was worth it to me so far.

And Clemsonfor, the guy that came to my place to fill my tires with Rimgaurd, his service fee was $20....Well worth it for me because it would have cost me more to go to him and have it done.

Yep for $20 I'd say when can you be here...tractor is out back if I'm not home!

 

[careyo63]

When I was moving the Yanmar around Daily Yrs. ago the D.Tail was the way to go. Depending on where I had to park was when or if I even had to pull the Ramps out! Not sure I still had it Clem.. I sold it and took a 16' and $ on trade with a full gate. Both the Mowers Barely fit. But I had to lift the wheels. Which was not that big of a problem. In laws needed that one which I let go because of it. I have a Dual Axel 20' still if I need it. Which I'm going change to a back gate if I used it a lot. Staying with a rear scoop to back up and dump on is what I really keep it around for. Which works Really Good. Both ways On and off and it holds "A Lot"...... I need to put a drop gate on it and then I won't hardly need to look back when backing up on it. One reason I even took the 16' on trade was the ramp. A couple inches and I wouldn't/couldn't of done it.........

This is good info here. I have a dovetail car hauler I use with separate individual ramps. I trailer maybe once or twice a year max. And can load without ramps at farm backing to the edge of the highway ditch and just driving on. At my house I can just drive off as well. And technically if I crank it way up in the front I can drive on without ramps

 

[bmaverick]

Thanks! Been on for a little while since I bought my Mahindra but just started on the Yanmar form since I just bought the 2210DB. Really looking forward to using it now that the weather in Northwest PA is finally looking like spring. I知 picking up a 4 foot brush hog that needs a new gearbox this weekend. So I plan to get that ready for mowing my field this season. I think the 2210 will be great for running it. I値l let you know how it works once it痴 ready.

Andy,

Not sure if you read a few postings back about getting a ROPS for you Yanmar. It's a life saver - literally. Fredricks has a bunch of them that fit all of our Yanmars and CUT John Deeres at a very attractive price. It's more than just the foldable type, it has seat belts and the PTO shield setup. Find the ROPS that fits your Yanmar here: ROPS Manuals — Fredricks Importing right down to the detailed drawings and mounting!

If any ROPS is still outside your ability to afford, then do quick search and find the National ROPS Rebate program for homesteaders and farmers. It will reduce the price by 70%.

The other thing a ROPS is hand for ... A sun shade mount, lighting mount, behind the seat tool carry-all bin, mount the SMV sign, a place for the up-holder. I've attached my ROPS info pix on the YM2610 ...

Another hand item to have are the front weights. The Yanmar CUT weights are identical to the John Deere because Yanmar supplies them. JD in green, Yanmar in black. Not sure why black and not pale green or Yanmar red. I've looked around and the majority were black.
Lowes has them for $64 each with FREE shipping to the local store of your choice. Unless you find a CL deal, it's hard to find these used at a lesser price. If I ever get time, it would be nice to make a 2D drawing of the mountable weight and make a simple frame mold to make these out of concrete. Of course concrete density for 20Kg is a larger size, so maybe using FreeCAD v17, I do a 3D model and adjust the size to match. hmmm. FreeCAD: Your own 3D parametric modeler

You got a nice machine. A head gasket isn't too hard to change out, just a bit of time really.

 

[Andy1969]

Andy,

Not sure if you read a few postings back about getting a ROPS for you Yanmar. It's a life saver - literally. Fredricks has a bunch of them that fit all of our Yanmars and CUT John Deeres at a very attractive price. It's more than just the foldable type, it has seat belts and the PTO shield setup. Find the ROPS that fits your Yanmar here: ROPS Manuals Fredricks Importing right down to the detailed drawings and mounting!

If any ROPS is still outside your ability to afford, then do quick search and find the National ROPS Rebate program for homesteaders and farmers. It will reduce the price by 70%.

The other thing a ROPS is hand for ... A sun shade mount, lighting mount, behind the seat tool carry-all bin, mount the SMV sign, a place for the up-holder. I've attached my ROPS info pix on the YM2610 ...

Another hand item to have are the front weights. The Yanmar CUT weights are identical to the John Deere because Yanmar supplies them. JD in green, Yanmar in black. Not sure why black and not pale green or Yanmar red. I've looked around and the majority were black.
Lowes has them for $64 each with FREE shipping to the local store of your choice. Unless you find a CL deal, it's hard to find these used at a lesser price. If I ever get time, it would be nice to make a 2D drawing of the mountable weight and make a simple frame mold to make these out of concrete. Of course concrete density for 20Kg is a larger size, so maybe using FreeCAD v17, I do a 3D model and adjust the size to match. hmmm. FreeCAD: Your own 3D parametric modeler

You got a nice machine. A head gasket isn't too hard to change out, just a bit of time really.

Thanks and yes I do plan to get one of the Fredericks ROPS. My place is pretty hilly and I definitely want that extra bit of safety margin a ROPS provides. I spent today properly tightening the head, adjusting valve lash, changing oil and filter, flushing cooling system and putting in new antifreeze, degreasing and steam cleaning engine. She痴 clean and purring like a kitten. I also picked up a lightweight 4 foot brush hog just for this tractor. I plan to use it for more controllable mowing near and around about 500 Norway Spruce that I致e planted over the last 8 years or so.

 

[bmaverick]

View attachment 602294
Thanks and yes I do plan to get one of the Fredericks ROPS. My place is pretty hilly and I definitely want that extra bit of safety margin a ROPS provides. I spent today properly tightening the head, adjusting valve lash, changing oil and filter, flushing cooling system and putting in new antifreeze, degreasing and steam cleaning engine. She痴 clean and purring like a kitten. I also picked up a lightweight 4 foot brush hog just for this tractor. I plan to use it for more controllable mowing near and around about 500 Norway Spruce that I致e planted over the last 8 years or so.

Nice brush hog. I couldn't find a 4ft in my region last summer, had to buy new a 6ft size. I wanted a smaller one to get in/out of tighter places.

Since it's used with no history of when the gear oil was changed, it would be smart to flush out that gear box and put new fluid in. This way, you know that you know if was serviced very recently. I typically flush mine out with diesel. First drain out the gear box, recap, fill with diesel and run the PTO connected just under 200rpm for a few mins. Not too long to get the gear box hot. Just enough to get the sticking gunk out. Re-drain, let it air out over night and in the morning refill with new gear box oil. If you don't want to wait over night to evaporate out the diesel, brake fluid works in a pinch.

 

[Andy1969]

Nice brush hog. I couldn't find a 4ft in my region last summer, had to buy new a 6ft size. I wanted a smaller one to get in/out of tighter places.

Since it's used with no history of when the gear oil was changed, it would be smart to flush out that gear box and put new fluid in. This way, you know that you know if was serviced very recently. I typically flush mine out with diesel. First drain out the gear box, recap, fill with diesel and run the PTO connected just under 200rpm for a few mins. Not too long to get the gear box hot. Just enough to get the sticking gunk out. Re-drain, let it air out over night and in the morning refill with new gear box oil. If you don't want to wait over night to evaporate out the diesel, brake fluid works in a pinch.

The brush hog has a bent main spindle. I know the guy I bought it from and he said his brother hit a rock or a stump and bent the output shaft. So I paid $50 for it since the rest of it is in such good shape knowing that I’d likely have to replace the gearbox. Surplus Center has 40 horse gearboxes for $129 that I’m sure I can make fit. So for a little work and less than $200 investment I should have a good mower. I’ll dig into it in the next few weeks.

 

[clemsonfor]

Yea those boxes are generic and it should work. I think it's all the same gear box. Agri supply sells one too.

 

[Andy1969]

Have the brush hog all torn down and have the gearbox etc removed. Welded up a few cracks and hammered things straight again. Have a new gearbox, stump jumper, and blades ordered. So once it all comes it should go together pretty fast. Field is greening up fast so I’ll want to mow in the next couple weeks.

 

[CoyPatton]

A few things from looking at your photo.
Very nice looking tractor, I wish my sheet metal was in that nice of shape.
As for stability, your tires have already been turned to dish out so the best thing after that will be the spacers as far as a mechanical addition. But the biggest thing you can ever do is to have your head in the game when using your tractor. That included walking your paths you plan to mow and travel to get there looking for possible holes. You said no plans for a fel, that is up to you, but everyone I know that has one lives it. It can also help to stabilize you tractor by keeping that weight low and sometimes stopping the tipping. Same goes for an implement on the rear if kept low. Just food for thought.
The last item is your straps on the trailer/tractor. You always want ad close to a 45 degree angle as possible. A few suggestions there on a short trailer. Go from front if trailer to rear of tractor and to opposite sides if need be. Also can go from front of tractor to rear of trailer. Forty-five angle stabilizes side to side movement. Your rear straps would stabilize forward travel, but from what I see in the picture, I am not sure that rearward travel has much restriction.
Again tractor looks sweat! Wishing you safe tractoring and hauling.

 

[Andy1969]

Well I have an update on what I've done to the tractor to get it ready for mowing season. Changed all fluids and filters. That includes the trans/hydraulic fluid and cleaning the filter screen (which was almost spotless to start with). Went with Rotella 15/40 in the engine, and Schaeffers Simplex Supreme in the trans. I run the Simplex Supreme in my Mahindra and it seems like a big step up from the factory stuff that was in there particularly in cold weather. I retorqued the cylinder head and that solved the exhaust leaking into the coolant issue. I flushed the coolant system and put in new 50/50. Adjusted the valve lash while I had the valve cover off. Adjusted the brakes and clutch free play to specs. Greased everything that had a fitting, and used spray grease on all other pivot points. Checked all bolts for tightness (none were lose). Put new fuel in the tank (old stuff had been sitting a while) and added some diesel treatment. Finally degreased the engine etc with Gunk and gave the whole thing a bath. So now it starts and runs great, shifts nice, and has all new fluids and filters and everything is adjusted up. This weekend I'm installing a mechanical oil pressure gauge so I can keep an eye on that. I bought a tee so I can keep the idiot light but add a gauge so I'll let you know how that install goes. All in all it's now ready to do some mowing in the field which if the weather cooperates should happen over the holiday weekend. I think I've really going to like this tractor. It fills in a nice gap between my old Gravely model L walk behind with the 30" rough cut deck, and my Mahindra 1538.