otlski
Gold Member
Congrats on the baby!
forgeing splines using a axle and press
- Thread starter muddstopper
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Congrats on the baby!
OP
muddstopper
Veteran Member
I actually started working on the boom today. Got the hub apart. Cut some flat plate to bolt to the hub flange. Chucked the hub up in the lathe and turned down the centering flange that keeps the wheel centered. I needed to to do this because the hub dia was 4 3/4 inches and the wheel center is about 6 inches. I then chucked up the flat plate and used a 4in hole saw to cut a hole in the plate and then finished boreing the hole to just clear the outer bearing surface of the hub. I then put the plate metal on the hub and used it to mark out the lug pattern on the plate. Drilled the plate and used the lugs to hold it on. Next I will be cutting my boom and cyl brackets and welding them to the plate on the hub. I have to buy a piece of heavy wall square tubeing to make the boom. Once i have the boom assembled. I will work out some sort of way to attach my turn cyl's to the axle. Welding anything to the axle is out, it will just barely fit thru the tube housing as is. I am going to try and see if I can drill a couple of holes in the axle and if so, I will probably just use some heavy pipe to slip over the splined end and let the pins hold it on. If I cant drill it, I will probably just grind it square.
Big Barn
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IF you can, drill and tap a hole in the end of the axle and grind a tapered square. You could then use a bolt and flat bar tab or heavy washer to suck your “handle” in place.
You might need to heat the axle end to remove the hardness for drilling. Not sure if you want to do that or not. It’s just a thought..
You might need to heat the axle end to remove the hardness for drilling. Not sure if you want to do that or not. It’s just a thought..
OP
muddstopper
Veteran Member
Been reading up on axle material. It seems the rockwell hardness is around 30 to 60, depending on who makes the axle. A 1050 grade of steel is used. The hardness extends about .125-.150. So if I can get thru the first 1/8 inch or so, the rest of the axle should drill. Drilling and taping a bolt hole in the end of the shaft to hold the pitman arm I will make, might be doable and grinding a flatspot to start the drill bit on the splines might be all I need to do. I have some good cobalt drills. I will just have to try to see if I can drill the axle. I want to make the pitman arm easily removeable. I figure on making the boom turn 180*, but would like to be able to drop the pitman arm and turn the boom around to load the truck in front of the trailer. Keeping the hoses and wireing from getting all twisted up might take some figureing out.
OP
muddstopper
Veteran Member
Let me throw this ideal out there and see what everyone thinks. If I take some heavy wall pipe that will just fit the outside dia of the splines and use a grinder to put a keyway in the pipe and the shaft, then weld the keyway in the pipe by welding thru the slot in the pipe. Then use a couple of set screws to hold the pipe on the axle shaft. Any reason this wouldnt work. I could then weld my pitman/steering arm on the pipe. I could grind two keyway slots in the shaft on opposit sides and be able to loosen the set screws, drop the pitman turn the boom 180* and reassemble.
Big Barn
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In that case grind out a couple of keyways bigger and deeper. Make your keys accordingly.
OP
muddstopper
Veteran Member
Chucked the axle in the lathe and tried to drill a 1/4in hole in the end. Didnt scratch it. Just curled the tip of the drill bit. Funny thing is, I used a old file to clean some of the rust off the shaft and the file would cut the shaft. It must just be harden on the spline end.
Big Barn
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Did you use a center drill to start the hole?
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muddstopper
Veteran Member
The end of the axle already had a center hole, I suppose from when it was made. The drill bit just curled up on its edges. Never even made it to the bottom of the centering hole. I was only trying to drill it because it was already chucked in the lathe.
Got to go buy some tube for the boom. I think I am going to try and find some weld in sprocket hubs or taperlock bushings the right size to fit the axle. The sprocket hubs will already have a keyway cut in them so all I have to do is grind a slot in the shaft. I had a 1 7/16 taper lock bushing, but it was to big. Dont know if I can find one to fit local, but if I can, I think using a taperlock and grinding a keyway and welding my pitman arm to the sprocket the taperlock fits into, should work. Tightening the taper lock should keep the pitman arm from falling off.
I have came up with all kinds of ideals that should work since I started this thread. Not sure of which ideal is the best, but all should work. Not sure about the pressing teeth in a collar as I first considered, but I am sure some of my other ideals will be a lot easier.
Got to go buy some tube for the boom. I think I am going to try and find some weld in sprocket hubs or taperlock bushings the right size to fit the axle. The sprocket hubs will already have a keyway cut in them so all I have to do is grind a slot in the shaft. I had a 1 7/16 taper lock bushing, but it was to big. Dont know if I can find one to fit local, but if I can, I think using a taperlock and grinding a keyway and welding my pitman arm to the sprocket the taperlock fits into, should work. Tightening the taper lock should keep the pitman arm from falling off.
I have came up with all kinds of ideals that should work since I started this thread. Not sure of which ideal is the best, but all should work. Not sure about the pressing teeth in a collar as I first considered, but I am sure some of my other ideals will be a lot easier.
OP
muddstopper
Veteran Member
Was getting ready to go buy the boom material but had to head back to the shop before I left. While walking around back, guess what I tripped over.
I had bought a set of used log bunks a couple of years ago, thinking one day I would find a use for the metal. 4x4 sq tube. I was going to buy a piece about 7ft long, figureing I would have to cut it off when I figured out just how much I really needed. The bunks are 6ft4in long between the corner braceing. Close enough! This one has a little bow in it and I might try to straighten using heat and a welder. And I might just leave the bow in it and turn it so the end raises up. The weight might eventually pull it back straight. I can use the uprights to mount the boom on the trailer tongue. The tube will be big enough I can mount some outriggers to it if I find I need them. So far out of pocket spent, still zero$$. I did pay for the tube, at one point, but anything I scrounge in my weed pile I consider free.
I had bought a set of used log bunks a couple of years ago, thinking one day I would find a use for the metal. 4x4 sq tube. I was going to buy a piece about 7ft long, figureing I would have to cut it off when I figured out just how much I really needed. The bunks are 6ft4in long between the corner braceing. Close enough! This one has a little bow in it and I might try to straighten using heat and a welder. And I might just leave the bow in it and turn it so the end raises up. The weight might eventually pull it back straight. I can use the uprights to mount the boom on the trailer tongue. The tube will be big enough I can mount some outriggers to it if I find I need them. So far out of pocket spent, still zero$$. I did pay for the tube, at one point, but anything I scrounge in my weed pile I consider free.