Rotary Cutter Which Rotary Cutter ?

[Welshman]

I'm in the market for a rotary cutter and have just started looking. While I've used a couple before, I've not owned one.

My primary use for one is maintaining about 6 acres of pastures, and some walking trails that I have, which I've been maintaining with my 72" finish mower. I have a 35hp NH T-1520 tractor.

I've looked at a Kioti RC 1060, a Land Pride ( I think it's a RCR 1260), and a County Line 5'. Does anyone have any experience or recommendations on any of these?

What advantages/disadvantages are there between shear pin and slip clutch for driveline protection?

Thanks.

 

[Shaneard]

Shear pin sucks, slip clutch is awesome if maintained properly. If you shear a pin you have to stop and fix it. If you slip a clutch chances are you won't even know it and you continue on.

 

[Birdhunter1]

I've used many different brands of cutters. If you aren't going to mow commercially, mow highway right of ways or use it in heavy use like a few hundred acres of cornstalks go for whatever cutter you can find that fits your budget with a clutch. Most of the lighter duty ones are all built about the same anyway.

 

[skipperbrown]

I'd look for a 6' unit with a slip clutch. Compare the weight of the units and go for the heaviest in your budget range.

 

[BRMyers]

I have a Kubota Grand L3560 (35HP) and use a LP RCR1272. It has the clutch. I have mowed some thick grass with it. I can tell you in thick grass, I pull slow, but now that we have some of the areas mowed back, the second cutting I was able to do in medium gear, without any issues. You can get an idea from the picture that type of area that I've been mowing in.

 

[ruffdog]

When I assemble a shear pin connection, I use marine grease so it doesn't rust together over time. If it does rust, you lose the protection provided by the shear pin. If a clutch sits, it may be "stuck" and will take extra torque to break it free. Sometimes the extra torque is more than other components can handle so those items break. That is why people will loosen a clutch, use it to break it free and spin it some, then re-adjust it to the proper tension. It depends on how often you use the cutter and what you are mowing if a clutch or shear pin fits your needs. I like having the shear pin on my cutter but I'm not using it as much as many people are. I have not sheared a pin yet either. My dad's old Dixie Cutter has a clutch and it was froze up. He blew the pto shaft apart when he hit a stump.

 

[big bubba]

know the limits of your tractor pto hp & rear attachments max weight. didn't mention if you have a fel. makes a difference in rear implements.
so check the pto hp requirements of each of the brush hogs you are looking at. your owners manual should give max weight of various 3ph attachments. assume your pto hp is around 30 hp. then go from there.
in terms of reputation, both mentioned manufacturers have a solid reputation.
personally, since you already have a lighter finish mower, i'd go mid range service duty for the hog

 

[RickB]

I'd look for a 6' unit with a slip clutch. Compare the weight of the units and go for the heaviest in your budget range.

A 6’ cutter that is too heavy will be disadvantageous on a T1520 if the tractor does not have a loader. If he has been mowing the same ground with a finish mower a light duty rotary will be fine. I do agree a slip clutch would be my preference.

 

[Welshman]

Thank you all for the responses.

All of the units that I've looked at fit in the pto hp range of my tractor, and yes, I do have a FEL.

 

[coobie]

I'm in the market for a rotary cutter and have just started looking. While I've used a couple before, I've not owned one.

My primary use for one is maintaining about 6 acres of pastures, and some walking trails that I have, which I've been maintaining with my 72" finish mower. I have a 35hp NH T-1520 tractor.

I've looked at a Kioti RC 1060, a Land Pride ( I think it's a RCR 1260), and a County Line 5'. Does anyone have any experience or recommendations on any of these?

What advantages/disadvantages are there between shear pin and slip clutch for driveline protection?

Thanks.

Brush hog and woods brand medium duty series rotary cutters are pretty hard to beat.Buy once cry once.Medium duty cutters are about $1000 bucks more than light duty.As stated above get the slip clutch in a 5 ft.cutter.I believe a 6ft is to much cutter for your tractor.

 

[YLee Kioti]

Looks like your choices are based on what is available near you?
If so then pick one with a slip clutch and within your budget. The heavier the better.
Slip clutches need to be slipped once a year when your cutting season begins.
It's not a big deal just part of the ritual and well for me maintenance is kindah therapeutic anyways.
Decks and gear boxes will hold up fine with a little care. The oil will always check to to be in good shape and look almost as new. But I learned that water will settle to the bottom. So the lower bearing will eventually suffer from lack of lubricant and corrosion.
Pop the cover off, use a turkey baster, suck it all out, wipe it all clean. Refill and install cover, good to go.
Good luck with your new cutter.

 

[big bubba]

agree w/above. given you already have 72" finish, mid service duty 5' hog of your choice would be a good fit. can't really say which manufacturer, but in terms of name brands, you're on the right track. eventually you might look @ top & tilt hyd link that would be useful for hog & ground engagement attachments. that is if you have the extra rear remote. salute' good forum member

also. my experience is that manu ship gearboxes low. so check your new one before use. owners manual should recommend gear oil wt. for model

 

[Molalla1]

A 6 cutter that is too heavy will be disadvantageous on a T1520 if the tractor does not have a loader. If he has been mowing the same ground with a finish mower a light duty rotary will be fine. I do agree a slip clutch would be my preference.

A light duty would be fine (from looking at the picture he posted), I have a light/med. duty one that has cut way worse pastures than that and it has a shear pin that has never split.

 

[RickB]

We agree on the 6 foot light duty spec. The clutch or shearbolt choice is a preference thing and not worth debating. You are happy with shearbolt protection; I wouldn’t own one. It’s all good.

 

[Molalla1]

We agree on the 6 foot light duty spec. The clutch or shearbolt choice is a preference thing and not worth debating. You are happy with shearbolt protection; I wouldn’t own one. It’s all good.

Rick . . . :thumbsup:

 

[Welshman]

Thanks again, all. Right now I'm leaning towards the Kioti (Woods) unit. It's the only one on my list with the slip clutch, and it's at a dealer very close to me.

The owner's manual for this unit recommends operating it at "2 - 5 mph.". I have no idea how fast that is. I typically run my finish mower in mid-range, 2. How does that equate?

Also, is there any issue with cutting with these units in reverse? I'd like to cut a couple of turn arounds in my walking paths, which would require backing into the area.

 

[Molalla1]

Thanks again, all. Right now I'm leaning towards the Kioti (Woods) unit. It's the only one on my list with the slip clutch, and it's at a dealer very close to me.

The owner's manual for this unit recommends operating it at "2 - 5 mph.". I have no idea how fast that is. I typically run my finish mower in mid-range, 2. How does that equate?

Also, is there any issue with cutting with these units in reverse? I'd like to cut a couple of turn arounds in my walking paths, which would require backing into the area.

You should or did have a sticker somewhere, that will tell you the different speed/rpm/gear you are running at.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Personally, I think a 6' rotary cutter is too big for a 30hp tractor, unless it's a pretty wimpy cutter!

My Woods "medium duty" rotary cutter, would absolutely be too much cutter for a 30hp tractor!

SR

 

[ericm979]

You need to service the slip clutch regularly. Most people recommend annually. It's kind of a pain on my Kodiak as the PTO shield is in the way and needs to be removed and reinstalled. When you get the mower, check the slip clutch adjustment. Mine arrived cranked down too tight. The shear bolt requires no maintenance besides an extra shot of grease when you grease the PTO shaft.

I back into brush a lot. Some cheap units have tailwheel brackets made from steel strap, which can bend if you back into something that doesn't move. If you're going to be doing much of that look for one with a good size tubular steel bracket.

Some rotaries have a connection from the top link to the deck that has a pivot linkage in it. That allows the deck to pivot at the lower links to follow the contours of uneven terrain. Some allow quite a bit of pivot which is good for backing up to a bank to mow it.

I prefer decks that have angles at the rear (or round backs) rather than square backs, so you can get closer to trees and have less of a chance of hitting stuff on the outside of turns as the tail of the mower swings out.

The Kodiak light duty has all those features but I've discovered one flaw- the rear edges of the deck that are at an angle are made from thin deck steel bent into a flange. If you hook that on a good sized rock that's buried in the ground and barely sticking up past the soil, it can bend the flange out. It took me a while to figure out why I was gouging the grass up so much. If it happens again I'll have to weld in a stiffer piece and tie it into the rest of the deck better.

 

[ruffdog]

Personally, I think a 6' rotary cutter is too big for a 30hp tractor, unless it's a pretty wimpy cutter!

My Woods "medium duty" rotary cutter, would absolutely be too much cutter for a 30hp tractor!

SR

I agree. I had a Behlen 6ft cutter for on my NH TC33D and felt it was to big when I was maneuvering. The neighbor's 5ft Howse cutter was way better.