Rotary Cutter Which Rotary Cutter ?

[YLee Kioti]

Looks like your choices are based on what is available near you?
If so then pick one with a slip clutch and within your budget. The heavier the better.
Slip clutches need to be slipped once a year when your cutting season begins.
It's not a big deal just part of the ritual and well for me maintenance is kindah therapeutic anyways.
Decks and gear boxes will hold up fine with a little care. The oil will always check to to be in good shape and look almost as new. But I learned that water will settle to the bottom. So the lower bearing will eventually suffer from lack of lubricant and corrosion.
Pop the cover off, use a turkey baster, suck it all out, wipe it all clean. Refill and install cover, good to go.
Good luck with your new cutter.

 

[big bubba]

agree w/above. given you already have 72" finish, mid service duty 5' hog of your choice would be a good fit. can't really say which manufacturer, but in terms of name brands, you're on the right track. eventually you might look @ top & tilt hyd link that would be useful for hog & ground engagement attachments. that is if you have the extra rear remote. salute' good forum member

also. my experience is that manu ship gearboxes low. so check your new one before use. owners manual should recommend gear oil wt. for model

 

[Molalla1]

A 6 cutter that is too heavy will be disadvantageous on a T1520 if the tractor does not have a loader. If he has been mowing the same ground with a finish mower a light duty rotary will be fine. I do agree a slip clutch would be my preference.

A light duty would be fine (from looking at the picture he posted), I have a light/med. duty one that has cut way worse pastures than that and it has a shear pin that has never split.

 

[RickB]

We agree on the 6 foot light duty spec. The clutch or shearbolt choice is a preference thing and not worth debating. You are happy with shearbolt protection; I wouldn’t own one. It’s all good.

 

[Molalla1]

We agree on the 6 foot light duty spec. The clutch or shearbolt choice is a preference thing and not worth debating. You are happy with shearbolt protection; I wouldn’t own one. It’s all good.

Rick . . . :thumbsup:

 

[Welshman]

Thanks again, all. Right now I'm leaning towards the Kioti (Woods) unit. It's the only one on my list with the slip clutch, and it's at a dealer very close to me.

The owner's manual for this unit recommends operating it at "2 - 5 mph.". I have no idea how fast that is. I typically run my finish mower in mid-range, 2. How does that equate?

Also, is there any issue with cutting with these units in reverse? I'd like to cut a couple of turn arounds in my walking paths, which would require backing into the area.

 

[Molalla1]

Thanks again, all. Right now I'm leaning towards the Kioti (Woods) unit. It's the only one on my list with the slip clutch, and it's at a dealer very close to me.

The owner's manual for this unit recommends operating it at "2 - 5 mph.". I have no idea how fast that is. I typically run my finish mower in mid-range, 2. How does that equate?

Also, is there any issue with cutting with these units in reverse? I'd like to cut a couple of turn arounds in my walking paths, which would require backing into the area.

You should or did have a sticker somewhere, that will tell you the different speed/rpm/gear you are running at.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Personally, I think a 6' rotary cutter is too big for a 30hp tractor, unless it's a pretty wimpy cutter!

My Woods "medium duty" rotary cutter, would absolutely be too much cutter for a 30hp tractor!

SR

 

[ericm979]

You need to service the slip clutch regularly. Most people recommend annually. It's kind of a pain on my Kodiak as the PTO shield is in the way and needs to be removed and reinstalled. When you get the mower, check the slip clutch adjustment. Mine arrived cranked down too tight. The shear bolt requires no maintenance besides an extra shot of grease when you grease the PTO shaft.

I back into brush a lot. Some cheap units have tailwheel brackets made from steel strap, which can bend if you back into something that doesn't move. If you're going to be doing much of that look for one with a good size tubular steel bracket.

Some rotaries have a connection from the top link to the deck that has a pivot linkage in it. That allows the deck to pivot at the lower links to follow the contours of uneven terrain. Some allow quite a bit of pivot which is good for backing up to a bank to mow it.

I prefer decks that have angles at the rear (or round backs) rather than square backs, so you can get closer to trees and have less of a chance of hitting stuff on the outside of turns as the tail of the mower swings out.

The Kodiak light duty has all those features but I've discovered one flaw- the rear edges of the deck that are at an angle are made from thin deck steel bent into a flange. If you hook that on a good sized rock that's buried in the ground and barely sticking up past the soil, it can bend the flange out. It took me a while to figure out why I was gouging the grass up so much. If it happens again I'll have to weld in a stiffer piece and tie it into the rest of the deck better.

 

[ruffdog]

Personally, I think a 6' rotary cutter is too big for a 30hp tractor, unless it's a pretty wimpy cutter!

My Woods "medium duty" rotary cutter, would absolutely be too much cutter for a 30hp tractor!

SR

I agree. I had a Behlen 6ft cutter for on my NH TC33D and felt it was to big when I was maneuvering. The neighbor's 5ft Howse cutter was way better.