Couple questions about trail grading, and hydraulic top links/top and tilt

[ericm979]

The only complaint I have with the hydraulic top link is that when you switch to another implement you have to get out and back in the tractor to move the top link in or out for your adjustment just so you can hook up the implement. On the manual top link you don’t have to get back in the tractor. Wish there was a way to do it from outside the tractor.

Look at the linkage from the remote's levers to the actual valve body, which is probably under floor or behind the cab. You may be able to make an extension lever from there to the back so you can operate it while hooking up an implement.

 

[gunny0628]

Look at the linkage from the remote's levers to the actual valve body, which is probably under floor or behind the cab. You may be able to make an extension lever from there to the back so you can operate it while hooking up an implement.

 

[ericm979]

My Branson has the remotes in the same place but the linkage is not as straightforward as that. Looks like it'd be easy to fab up an extra lever there. I'd use a locknut and a tall nut on the threaded part and weld a lever to that.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I have a heavy ROBB( roll over box blade ) and LPGS( land plane grading scraper ). Both have manual shanks. If I could only have one - the ROBB. It does tasks the scraper can not do. The ROBB will crown the trail/driveway, clean out the ditches, move material from here to there, etc, as well as smooth things out.

The hydraulic top link is much more useful when coupled with the ROBB. That's because the ROBB is capable of so many varied jobs.

Just so that Bridge4 knows what a ROBB is. It is a roll over box blade I highly recommend a 65" unit for use with your 2638.

I have and use Gannon ROBBs myself, an 81", 65" and 36" units. Unfortunately Gannon stopped building them back in 2005-2006.

 

[gunny0628]

So I figured all I need to do is pull on the connecting rod just a bit and I can move it. I’d love to weld a lever on it, maybe this weekend.

 

[bridge4]

I have a heavy ROBB( roll over box blade ) and LPGS( land plane grading scraper ). Both have manual shanks. If I could only have one - the ROBB. It does tasks the scraper can not do. The ROBB will crown the trail/driveway, clean out the ditches, move material from here to there, etc, as well as smooth things out.

The hydraulic top link is much more useful when coupled with the ROBB. That's because the ROBB is capable of so many varied jobs.

Thanks! It looks like the fit-rite and a ROBB is the way to go. I emailed them and with their lead times, I think I will order a full kit this winter and have it ready for spring. I won't be able to use it really at this point if it comes mid winter and I am set for snowblowing.

Just curious, pro's and cons of a ROBB vs regular BB

 

[bridge4]

Just so that Bridge4 knows what a ROBB is. It is a roll over box blade I highly recommend a 65" unit for use with your 2638.

I have and use Gannon ROBBs myself, an 81", 65" and 36" units. Unfortunately Gannon stopped building them back in 2005-2006.

Thanks for the photos Brian, that certainlty helps! and thanks for your emails on the fitrite! I will be placing an order this winter for sure. Excited to get set up and get my trails/roads in shape this spring!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks! It looks like the fit-rite and a ROBB is the way to go. I emailed them and with their lead times, I think I will order a full kit this winter and have it ready for spring. I won't be able to use it really at this point if it comes mid winter and I am set for snowblowing.

Just curious, pro's and cons of a ROBB vs regular BB

ROBB gets all the rippers ready for use with a single pull of a handle. Makes things easier and faster. Depending on how far your back window opens if you can do this from the tractor seat or not. Pulling the lever from the seat is the exact design and works well from an open station tractor. Again depends on how far your window opens if you can do that from your cab tractor. You could connect a rope to pull the lever if you can't reach the lever itself.

A std box blade has to have each individual ripper lowered manually. So you would have to stop the tractor, get off, adjust each ripper get back on the tractor.

You can do this in minutes, or in seconds with a ROBB. That by itself is why I prefer them so much over a std box blade. You can also get a box blade with hydraulic actuated rippers which will be heavier and operate even easier, but then you will need a 3rd rear remote of some type to operate those.

The rippers go about twice as deep (10") compared to a std box blade. (4-6"?)

The ROBB is heavier than a std box blade, but you can get a heavy duty box blade that would weigh as much or even more depending on what you were to purchase. This is a simple case of you get what you pay for when it comes to box blades, most implements really.

 

[bridge4]

ROBB gets all the rippers ready for use with a single pull of a handle. Makes things easier and faster. Depending on how far your back window opens if you can do this from the tractor seat or not. Pulling the lever from the seat is the exact design and works well from an open station tractor. Again depends on how far your window opens if you can do that from your cab tractor. You could connect a rope to pull the lever if you can't reach the lever itself.

A std box blade has to have each individual ripper lowered manually. So you would have to stop the tractor, get off, adjust each ripper get back on the tractor.

You can do this in minutes, or in seconds with a ROBB. That by itself is why I prefer them so much over a std box blade. You can also get a box blade with hydraulic actuated rippers which will be heavier and operate even easier, but then you will need a 3rd rear remote of some type to operate those.

The rippers go about twice as deep (10") compared to a std box blade. (4-6"?)

The ROBB is heavier than a std box blade, but you can get a heavy duty box blade that would weigh as much or even more depending on what you were to purchase. This is a simple case of you get what you pay for when it comes to box blades, most implements really.

Thanks for breaking all that down. Sounds like something that would work great for what I want to do.

 

[ericm979]

A std box blade has to have each individual ripper lowered manually. So you would have to stop the tractor, get off, adjust each ripper get back on the tractor.

You can do this in minutes, or in seconds with a ROBB. That by itself is why I prefer them so much over a std box blade. You can also get a box blade with hydraulic actuated rippers which will be heavier and operate even easier, but then you will need a 3rd rear remote of some type to operate those.

Some companies also make non ROBB box blades that have a single lever to raise or lower all the rippers at once. I have one from Gearmore. I could operate it from the tractor seat if I had a lot of upper body strength. The one time I tried it I pulled a muscle in my back hard enough to make me wish I'd spent the extra few hundred for hydraulic rippers. After that I get off and use two hands.

I'm sure the ROBB is better for the other reasons you mentioned though. Weight definitely makes the blade dig in deeper.

Every once in a while I want to lower just one ripper, usually in an attempt to pull out a stump or rock in the middle of leveling something with the BB. It's rare though.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Some companies also make non ROBB box blades that have a single lever to raise or lower all the rippers at once. I have one from Gearmore. I could operate it from the tractor seat if I had a lot of upper body strength. The one time I tried it I pulled a muscle in my back hard enough to make me wish I'd spent the extra few hundred for hydraulic rippers. After that I get off and use two hands.

I'm sure the ROBB is better for the other reasons you mentioned though. Weight definitely makes the blade dig in deeper.

Every once in a while I want to lower just one ripper, usually in an attempt to pull out a stump or rock in the middle of leveling something with the BB. It's rare though.

There are always exceptions to about everything and circumstances where one type simply works easier-better than another.

Overall the commercial hydraulic actuated scarifier units are the best, that's why all the industrial machines have them, but they are by far the most costly units to get. The hydraulic actuated units replaced the ROBB units in the commercial market back in the 1980s. The ROBB units are great for people that have no rear remotes and don't want to get them. And as you mentioned, there are std style box blades that also have a single lever type engaged rippers also.

Something for just about everyone's needs, just need to look and ask questions.

 

[bridge4]

There are always exceptions to about everything and circumstances where one type simply works easier-better than another.

Overall the commercial hydraulic actuated scarifier units are the best, that's why all the industrial machines have them, but they are by far the most costly units to get. The hydraulic actuated units replaced the ROBB units in the commercial market back in the 1980s. The ROBB units are great for people that have no rear remotes and don't want to get them. And as you mentioned, there are std style box blades that also have a single lever type engaged rippers also.

Something for just about everyone's needs, just need to look and ask questions.

It's getting to the point where there are almost too many options!!


Thanks though guys, all this has been very helpful to me.

 

[Fallon]

Thanks! It looks like the fit-rite and a ROBB is the way to go. I emailed them and with their lead times, I think I will order a full kit this winter and have it ready for spring. I won't be able to use it really at this point if it comes mid winter and I am set for snowblowing.

Just curious, pro's and cons of a ROBB vs regular BB

As a FYI MtnViewRanch is FitRite hydraulics, if you didnt already realize it. He's slow & not the cheapest but worth it. I got both my TnT sets from him before & after I upgraded machines. Tried the dealers options & they sucked, so I sent them back & waited for a good FitRite set.

 

[oosik]

The ROBB goes from blade to rippers without the need for hydraulics. Just ease up on the ROBB and pull the lever. OR you can get a box blade with manual rippers and need no hydraulics. OR you can get a box blade and HAVE hydraulic rippers if you have the hydraulics on your tractor.

I got the ROBB because I only have one rear hydraulic valve on my tractor and it controls the top link.

I wish all my "tools" worked as well as my FitRite hydraulic top link. It's simple, it's strong, it's easy to use, it's never given a moments problem.

 

[bridge4]

FitRite is the way to go, and I will be ordering from Brian in early winter for spring time.

What hydraulics are needed to run a BB with hydraulic rippers?

 

[Fallon]

FitRite is the way to go, and I will be ordering from Brian in early winter for spring time.

What hydraulics are needed to run a BB with hydraulic rippers?

Just 1 dual acting valve. Pretty much any tractor with rear hydraulics in the past 20 years will be appropriate. You'd need 3 total to run TnT along with another function like hydraulic angle or scarficers.

A box blade with hydraulic scarfiers tends to be heavier end of the spectrum, as is a ROBB. Manual scarfiers doesnt mean light though. My ancient Gannon is manual but heavy.

Weight is everything for a box blade. You need weight to cut into hard ground. Weight is a pretty straight forward proxy for strength on box blades too. People stack weight on light blades, even then they dont cut well & often get pretzeled if your machine has good weight/traction.

 

[bridge4]

Just 1 dual acting valve. Pretty much any tractor with rear hydraulics in the past 20 years will be appropriate. You'd need 3 total to run TnT along with another function like hydraulic angle or scarficers.

A box blade with hydraulic scarfiers tends to be heavier end of the spectrum, as is a ROBB. Manual scarfiers doesnt mean light though. My ancient Gannon is manual but heavy.

Weight is everything for a box blade. You need weight to cut into hard ground. Weight is a pretty straight forward proxy for strength on box blades too. People stack weight on light blades, even then they dont cut well & often get pretzeled if your machine has good weight/traction.

Thanks! I have two rears, and will eventually put a 3rd function on. Haven't had anything hooked up back there yet, so until I do, I'm a little "green" about it all! Got tires filled two days ago and huge improvement! So that should help with weight/traction.

 

[DieselBound]

A good medium duty rotary cutter can deal with 2" to 3" stumps; but, if there are crowns you need to take out then the subsurface stump/roots needs to go.

Application of rippers really depends on the soil type. For some soils rippers would dig in and essentially act as a brake. I've got hydraulic rippers on my big box blade and rarely use them (only on/with looser soils).

 

[bridge4]

A good medium duty rotary cutter can deal with 2" to 3" stumps; but, if there are crowns you need to take out then the subsurface stump/roots needs to go.

Application of rippers really depends on the soil type. For some soils rippers would dig in and essentially act as a brake. I've got hydraulic rippers on my big box blade and rarely use them (only on/with looser soils).

The soil I will mainly be working (95%) will be nice rich woods soil, I've found it very soft until you hit gravel quite a way down. There will be lots of little roots, and a few very small stumps I will need to rip though. And if the ripper can't do it, cut/dig out.

 

[DieselBound]

You should be good with rippers! Nothing there sounds like it couldn't be handled by your tractor.