My Industrial Cabin Build

[rScotty]

I would just use a good construction adhesive and call it good. If the inspector needs to see anchors just cut the bottom off of a bolt and glue it into the wood.

That's exactly the kind of thing that inspectors look for. He's probably seen that one before. You can bet he is going to put a wrench on a few of the anchors to see how secure they are - wouldn't you?
rScotty

 

[rScotty]

My house was designed by an architect. there are sheer walls on each side where it is stick built. They must be anchored to the slab with 5/8 inch anchor bolts, no more than 32" off center. I am following my plans. The rest of the walls will be attached to the floor with construction adhesive. That follows the building suggestion of the SIPs manufacturer. The foundation is a wide U-shape. The sides of it are conventional lumber (stick built) the center section is post and beam. All exterior walls and roof are SIPs.

Sounds typical and familiar. I'd do it in much the same way. First thing I would do is go back to the architect, tell him the problem, and ask him for an alternative anchoring scheme. It sounds like he is half way there already.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

I drilled and anchored these two sheer walls yesterday. I had planned to build more but a thunderstorm had me hiding in my truck for several hours. The lines have survived. I have a few more holes to drill in the long wall and one more short wall to do and I will be finished with the drilling.

 

[EddieWalker]

My house was designed by an architect. there are sheer walls on each side where it is stick built. They must be anchored to the slab with 5/8 inch anchor bolts, no more than 32" off center. I am following my plans. The rest of the walls will be attached to the floor with construction adhesive. That follows the building suggestion of the SIPs manufacturer. The foundation is a wide U-shape. The sides of it are conventional lumber (stick built) the center section is post and beam. All exterior walls and roof are SIPs.

Bolts work. If the plan is for bolts, that's what should be done. Is construction adhesive allowed instead of bolts for Code anywhere in the country? My experience with Liquid Nails and Loctite is that you can peal it off of the concrete from the edge. It holds wood to wood really well, but I've never been impressed with how it holds wood to concrete.

On exterior walls I run a thick bead of Leak Stopper that I buy at Lowes under my sill plates. This has become my very favorite flashing sealer. It goes on smooth, but dries super hard, but flexible. It dries clear and it's paintable. I use it for all exterior cracks and seams on a house, and for under the sill plates, it works great at keeping out ants!!!!

https://www.lowes.com/pd/LEAK-STOPPER-10-1-fl-oz-Waterproofer-Cement-Roof-Sealant/3013307

 

[rScotty]

Bolts work. If the plan is for bolts, that's what should be done. Is construction adhesive allowed instead of bolts for Code anywhere in the country? My experience with Liquid Nails and Loctite is that you can peal it off of the concrete from the edge. It holds wood to wood really well, but I've never been impressed with how it holds wood to concrete.

On exterior walls I run a thick bead of Leak Stopper that I buy at Lowes under my sill plates. This has become my very favorite flashing sealer. It goes on smooth, but dries super hard, but flexible. It dries clear and it's paintable. I use it for all exterior cracks and seams on a house, and for under the sill plates, it works great at keeping out ants!!!!

https://www.lowes.com/pd/LEAK-STOPPER-10-1-fl-oz-Waterproofer-Cement-Roof-Sealant/3013307

I don't think we are talking about exterior walls. There shouldn't be any problem with bolting the exterior walls because you don't run the PEX that close to the edge of a slab. Normally you keep the PEX back a couple of feet from the edges of a slab. You want the heat inside the house, not wasting heat by heating the edges of the slab that are exposed to the outside temperature.

There are several ways to seal under the outer sill plates. I like to use something like your flexible seal stopper & think it's a great improvement.
rScotty

 

[hawkeye08]

Middle daughter and SIL are building house with daylight basement. 3 walls of basement are SIPs, all 4 walls of main floor. They are using conventional trusses and will blow in insulation. when they were anchoring the interior walls in the basement, they had to drill concrete and miss the pex also. They learned that harbor freight concrete bits are not long lasting..

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Middle daughter and SIL are building house with daylight basement. 3 walls of basement are SIPs, all 4 walls of main floor. They are using conventional trusses and will blow in insulation. when they were anchoring the interior walls in the basement, they had to drill concrete and miss the pex also. They learned that harbor freight concrete bits are not long lasting..

I bought the bosch sps drill bit and a Milwaukee bit. Have not used the Milwaukee bit yet. The Bosch seems to be holding up fine.

 

[dstig1]

I don't think we are talking about exterior walls. There shouldn't be any problem with bolting the exterior walls because you don't run the PEX that close to the edge of a slab. Normally you keep the PEX back a couple of feet from the edges of a slab. You want the heat inside the house, not wasting heat by heating the edges of the slab that are exposed to the outside temperature.

There are several ways to seal under the outer sill plates. I like to use something like your flexible seal stopper & think it's a great improvement.
rScotty

Bingo. And use polyurethane adhesive instead of plain old liquid nails. It'll stick...

 

[Macinnis]

I have seen construction adhesive pull up chunks of concrete on a 2x4 if allowed to cure.

 

[EddieWalker]

Is that adhesive allowed by Code where you build houses?