Model Advice

   / Model Advice #101  
As a side note, wheel weights are not easy to find for these tractors.

I run a YM2002D and 54 tiller, I have never felt the need for added ballast while tilling.
My substantially smaller YM186D runs the 54" Yanmar tiller (RS1400) with no ballast needed - although without the loader it might need 100 lbs on the front, to plant the front tires firmly in order to make sharp turns with the tiller lifted. Horsepower (18) is just barely adequate, occasionally a full-depth first pass can stall it.

I've read that Deere weights fit on Yanmars but they are real expensive. For rear weights on the YM186D I finally adapted two 70 lb weights off Unknown (I suspect Case front wheels), grinding out a cavity on each for the tire valve then bolting them on. I later bought four wheel weights off a 1980's 20 hp Kubota but I've never mounted them. They would need drilling new bolt holes right through them. The more practical use is hang them from the qhitch on the back, to counterbalance carrying gravel etc in the loader.
 
   / Model Advice #102  
Along your repurpose idea. I picked up some old weights from a weight bench. My plan was to weld a piece of rebar onto the boxblade vertically or two, one on each corner and put those round weights on it with the bar running through the center to give more down pressure on the box.

You can get creative on how to add more weight in areas you want it.
 
   / Model Advice #103  
Are you saying the tach is labelled for the various rpms needed to attain PTO 540 in the various pto gears?

Here's the YM2000/YM240 tach diagram. For US YM240 with two speed PTO, 2200 @ engine gives 540 or 1000 rpm at the PTO.

61665d1159237755-20-series-owners-manual-errata-ymoperatingrpm-gif

For your first question, the answer is YES.

And we had discussed this last year here: See page #2 and my post #15.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/406501-engine-rpm-vs-pto-rpm-2.html

Now that makes a whole bunch of sense now. One the YM US models, there is only PTO on or PTO off. For my YM2610, this seems to equal the PTO selector #1. Nice find. :thumbsup:
 
   / Model Advice #104  
   / Model Advice #105  
   / Model Advice #106  
ADD the mother load of PTO selector to engine RPMs to PTO seep equals ...
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/244500-pto-speeds.html?highlight=pto+speed

A borrowed picture here may be worth more than words. I believe this was from a 2610 but could be wrong on the model
IMG_6816.JPG
As I understood the explanation with this picture, regardless of what PTO range is selected, he could match his engine rpm’s to generate 540 PTO rom’s. [
This pucture is from my YM2002D and I do not have that extra info on it.
ATTACH]627023[/ATTACH]
Mine has 3 PTO ranges I have looked it up in the past but forget exact numbers and am not where the manuals are so here are approximate speeds at operating engine rpm’s of around 2500 rpm

1=540
2=760
3=1000

Hope this helps clarify.
 

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   / Model Advice #107  
This picture is from my YM2002D and I do not have that extra info on it.
ATTACH]627023[/ATTACH]
Mine has 3 PTO ranges I have looked it up in the past but forget exact numbers and am not where the manuals are so here are approximate speeds at operating engine rpms of around 2500 rpm

1=540
2=760
3=1000

Hope this helps clarify.

Yes, that is my borrowed pix from my tractor. lol :D Sorry it was wet after the wash and blurry. Here's a better one I took last week as the hour meter just rolled over.

DSCF7277sm.jpg

Bummer there isn't a second inside PTO selector arc curve in your RPM tach gauge. You could pick PTO #2 and run the tractor to 2200rpm and probably hit 540rpm on the PTO output. Likewise applying the same principle to PTO #3 and maybe run the tractor at 1200rpm to probably arrive at 540rpm on the PTO output.

So, if you have an automotive timing light or an adjustable strobe light, you can tune what RPMs gets the other PTO selectors for 540 PTO speed rpms on the output. There Are a few good YT vids showing how to track and set a strobe at a constant speed, then keeping that setting on the strobe, change to the other PTO selections and adjust the engine RPMs till the strobe matches either in stillness or a pulse that you can count in a rhythm.

Your Yanmar has some hidden talent ready to be utilized. :thumbsup:

Sounds like your Yanmar is fully capable to do this, just that the indicator on the tach isn't there.

This thread is amazing. It's sort of let's talk about anything with our Yanmars. It's covered a bunch of ground already. :D
 
   / Model Advice
  • Thread Starter
#108  
As a side note, wheel weights are not easy to find for these tractors.

I've got the equipment I could actually make some if it came down to it. Ain't nothing you can't do with a bridgeport and a lathe :D
 
   / Model Advice
  • Thread Starter
#109  
JD / Yanmar weights can be $65 each brand new from the Lowes.com website with FREE shipping to your local store.

These are the 42-lbs types.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/John-Deere-Suitcase-Weights/50292597

It's the same one from Hoye, but painted black. Same price, free shipping.
Suitcase Weight 42lb - Free Shipping!: Yanmar Tractor Parts

Same weight is available on Amazon as well. I was looking at them recently to add ballast to my skid steer and increase the tip load a bit....
 
   / Model Advice #110  
I've got the equipment I could actually make some if it came down to it. Ain't nothing you can't do with a bridgeport and a lathe :D

That would be one way to go. It is possible you could build them in a way to keep the individual weight down yo make them manageable. One of the issues with wheel weight (at least on bigger tractors that I messed with) is managing the weight in a confined space. Thank God you stack them for increased weight, but even then managing the alignment with the holes inside the wheel could be a pain. Perhaps half a circle and interlocking somehow. Just food for consideration as you design if you design.
 
   / Model Advice #111  
One of the issues with wheel weight (at least on bigger tractors that I messed with) is managing the weight in a confined space. Thank God you stack them for increased weight, but even then managing the alignment with the holes inside the wheel could be a pain.
Maybe these photos can suggest some wheel ballast ideas.

I was going to drill and adapt these stackable Kubota wheel weights for the second YM186D, but I eventually gave up and just transferred over the weights from my first YM186D instead.

At any rate this shows how I used a ramp to position the wheel weight to figure a fit. The ramp had worked well mounting the previous smaller diameter weights on the first YM186D. (All wheel weights are 77 lbs.)

345259d1384107193-how-much-wheel-ballast-too-p1730884rym186d2sample77lbweights-jpg



And this shows my successful mounting of earlier weights on that first YM186D. I had to hog out material from the inner side of the weight for the valve stem to be accessible. Here's a thread describing that.

226028d1313728779-wheel-weights-ym186d-p1650243rwweightinstalled-jpg


Re-purposed the unmountable Kubota weights as temporary rear ballast, to counterbalance loader work in tight space. I could hang all four on there but two feels sufficient.

390836d1410972768-po-boy-ballast-box-kimg0243rqh-ballast-jpg


And 50 lbs of free exercise equipment weights, that add a little traction for pulling my 2600 lb watering trailer uphill. This weight is in addition to the qhitch (65 lbs) and the drawbar on it (22 lbs) that has the trailer ball.

514621d1499475380-tractor-ballast-use-whatever-works-img_20170707_105814rballastreartinas-jpg
 
   / Model Advice #112  
Those nice pics California, great way to re-purpose those weights. I like wheel weights, as long as you plan on leaving them on there, otherwise they are a pain to take of and put on again, if you are using them on the wheels of course.
 
   / Model Advice #113  
I like that idea on the drawbar for weight.

Those tires in that 186d with the wheel weights are brand new looking!
 
   / Model Advice #114  
I miss Norm. Often when I posted pix, he would reply my stuff needs to be repainted.

He was right but I never did paint anything.
 
   / Model Advice
  • Thread Starter
#115  
Maybe these photos can suggest some wheel ballast ideas.

I was going to drill and adapt these stackable Kubota wheel weights for the second YM186D, but I eventually gave up and just transferred over the weights from my first YM186D instead.

At any rate this shows how I used a ramp to position the wheel weight to figure a fit. The ramp had worked well mounting the previous smaller diameter weights on the first YM186D. (All wheel weights are 77 lbs.)

I'm a big fan of adapting stuff instead of building from scratch. Leverage all the work someone else did to get the job done.
 
   / Model Advice
  • Thread Starter
#116  
Ditching work here in about 45 minutes to go look at tractors, then off to soccer with my youngest. Suppose I'll report back later this evening....
 
   / Model Advice #117  
Yes adapting is always nice instead of building from scratch, unless you have the extra time and resources to do so. California I can appreciate how you feel.
 
   / Model Advice
  • Thread Starter
#118  
after driving a few, the 2210 is just too small for me. Feel like I'm sitting with my knees under my chin. Powershift is pretty awesome. Every tractor should have it IMO.

2310 and a 2420 are top of the list, just gotta decide how much I want to spend. Was quoted just under $8600 for a 2310 2WD with 5ft box blade and 5ft tiller and right at $10200 for a 2420 4WD with the same kit.
 
   / Model Advice #119  
Stuff you didn't realize you need. I'll bet you end up with the 4wd. Price creep! :)

Or just re-work the seat mount on the 2210?

I did that on the YM186D. For nearly every new orchard tree I deliver water to, I need to jump off the tractor and repair the levee around the tree. Its seat was too low and too far back, it meant doing a chin-up pulling on the steering wheel just to stand up. I bought a higher Tractor Supply seat and reworked its mount. Now its easier to at least stand upright. Space is still so tight that it takes some contortions to mount/dismount - but I expect the 2210 wouldn't have that problem.
 
   / Model Advice
  • Thread Starter
#120  
Stuff you didn't realize you need. I'll bet you end up with the 4wd. Price creep! :)

Or just re-work the seat mount on the 2210?

I did that on the YM186D. For nearly every new orchard tree I deliver water to, I need to jump off the tractor and repair the levee around the tree. Its seat was too low and too far back, it meant doing a chin-up pulling on the steering wheel just to stand up. I bought a higher Tractor Supply seat and reworked its mount. Now its easier to at least stand upright. Space is still so tight that it takes some contortions to mount/dismount - but I expect the 2210 wouldn't have that problem.

Whats making me even consider the 4WD is it presents the option of installing a loader later if I want to. I have the skid steer but it is literally 30 years old, a 1989 model, so if it quits tomorrow, putting a loader on the tractor might present a better option.
 

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