OP
MRollins10
Silver Member
ha! you know us way to well.
My new barn / shop build
- Thread starter MRollins10
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MRollins10
Silver Member
Nice! Can you post a picture? I would like to see what you went with. Now that you have been using it for a year, is there anything you wish you would have done differently?
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
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I don't want to hog your thread. I'll honestly answer any questions you have though. There are some things I wish I had asked about before building. Eddie Walker is a very good, logical source for answers and will give them honestly. I'll post a couple pics
It's a 39x48x14, 2x6 stud walls, 6" concrete slab with footings, hydronic floor heat, two 12x12 overheads, two 36" mandoors, four 4x4 double hung windows, R19 wall insulation, 18" blow in fiberglas in ceiling, OSB wall covering, tin panel ceiling, six 4ft 6 bulb LED lights, bathroom.
For me, I like to see out. I like utilizing daytime light in the shop. I can work in my shop with the lights off during the day. I have a view in every direction. Even have windows in my overheads.
Do Overs.
1. Horizontal Slider windows. Every time I walk to one of my windows to look out the horizontal splice is directly in my line of sight.
2. Raise the wainscoat line a foot. Would have much better appearance and not look so tall.
3. Floor drain in one bay for parking on those wet, sloppy days.
4. Use a hydronic floor heat slab thermostat. They use a sensor in the concrete in conjunction with measuring the air temp. Helps prevent overrun of temps. My simple thermostat is set on 67F. It overruns 2-4 degrees every cycle. I think that could be better controlled by measuring slab temp along with air temp. I've got one ordered and will install it next weekend. I'll report my findings. I use a Rinnai tankless heater set on 110F degrees.
5. Overhead door openers. I used Liftmaster openers. They have 400ft range with my lights off. 50ft range with the shop lights on. I started with fluorescent bulbs and transformers in my lights. After Googling this problem and talking to my electrical supplier I swapped the bulbs to LED and removed the transformers. This helped. Prior to that change I had to hold the opener remote up against the door glass if outside to get a door to open with lights on. Not sure what's going on there. I even added external antennas outside which also helped a little. I'm open to anyone's suggestions in that regard.
It's a 39x48x14, 2x6 stud walls, 6" concrete slab with footings, hydronic floor heat, two 12x12 overheads, two 36" mandoors, four 4x4 double hung windows, R19 wall insulation, 18" blow in fiberglas in ceiling, OSB wall covering, tin panel ceiling, six 4ft 6 bulb LED lights, bathroom.
For me, I like to see out. I like utilizing daytime light in the shop. I can work in my shop with the lights off during the day. I have a view in every direction. Even have windows in my overheads.
Do Overs.
1. Horizontal Slider windows. Every time I walk to one of my windows to look out the horizontal splice is directly in my line of sight.
2. Raise the wainscoat line a foot. Would have much better appearance and not look so tall.
3. Floor drain in one bay for parking on those wet, sloppy days.
4. Use a hydronic floor heat slab thermostat. They use a sensor in the concrete in conjunction with measuring the air temp. Helps prevent overrun of temps. My simple thermostat is set on 67F. It overruns 2-4 degrees every cycle. I think that could be better controlled by measuring slab temp along with air temp. I've got one ordered and will install it next weekend. I'll report my findings. I use a Rinnai tankless heater set on 110F degrees.
5. Overhead door openers. I used Liftmaster openers. They have 400ft range with my lights off. 50ft range with the shop lights on. I started with fluorescent bulbs and transformers in my lights. After Googling this problem and talking to my electrical supplier I swapped the bulbs to LED and removed the transformers. This helped. Prior to that change I had to hold the opener remote up against the door glass if outside to get a door to open with lights on. Not sure what's going on there. I even added external antennas outside which also helped a little. I'm open to anyone's suggestions in that regard.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
This made me smile. I have a Mule and the bed is always full of Amazon boxes, and anything else that needs to go to the burn pile. Never planned on using it at the place to store all my garbage, but then again, I didn't know a quarter of all the things I'd use it for!!!!
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
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Ain't that the truth Eddie. I've had this machine 3 or 4 years. Use it for many, many chores. Keep thinking Terry will need to haul off her house trash pretty soon and dump it for me. I think she's trying to outwait me. As soon as I back out of the shop I'll hear her hollering from the house door to take her trash too.
Imold
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Congrats. Looks like it will be a nice shop, yours will be just about the same size as the one I am starting to build( 30x45 ). I might go 48 not sure yet, I just started clearing the area late this fall where I will be building mine, I am doing all the clearing and leveling with my GC1705 so it is taking time.
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
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Some additional thoughts.
30ft wide with three doors? Two 10ft wide overheads? One 3ft wide mandoor?
Assuming that's correct.... Let's say the left door is 3ft from the wall. Let's say there's 2ft between the overheads. That leaves 1ft between the center overhead and the mandoor. That leaves 1ft between the mandoor and the right wall. That's barely doable but leaves no space for an office.
Maybe shift the mandoor to the right wall?
I love my lift. Have had one for many years. Mine is a drive-on which takes up a lot of space. I can park my Jeep on it. Raise it all the way. Then park my RTV under it. Also makes an excellent Buffet Table for gatherings.
A two post takes up less space but still requires some door planning and placement consideration to make it accessible. If doing a two post you have to pre-determine location and pour sumps or piers where the legs will be to assure stability. They put a lot of lateral pressure on the concrete so it needs to be deep there and well enforced.
30ft wide with three doors? Two 10ft wide overheads? One 3ft wide mandoor?
Assuming that's correct.... Let's say the left door is 3ft from the wall. Let's say there's 2ft between the overheads. That leaves 1ft between the center overhead and the mandoor. That leaves 1ft between the mandoor and the right wall. That's barely doable but leaves no space for an office.
Maybe shift the mandoor to the right wall?
I love my lift. Have had one for many years. Mine is a drive-on which takes up a lot of space. I can park my Jeep on it. Raise it all the way. Then park my RTV under it. Also makes an excellent Buffet Table for gatherings.
A two post takes up less space but still requires some door planning and placement consideration to make it accessible. If doing a two post you have to pre-determine location and pour sumps or piers where the legs will be to assure stability. They put a lot of lateral pressure on the concrete so it needs to be deep there and well enforced.
AllByteNoBark
Gold Member
I am thinking he might be running the building the other way from the mockup. 48 wide and 30 long. I've seen that done so if you want it is easy to add on and make it much bigger in the future.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
He says that the leanto is going to be 30 feet long, so that means the front of the building with the doors will be 40 feet wide. That means the walk through door will go into the office and not into the shop area.
