Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[blitzen]

As much as your company's name comes up . . . I'd think you would get ahold of the owners . . . .

Molalla1 was this for me or Flailmaster?

 

[dieselscout80]

The tag doesn't give you the "907". It tells you their code for the model and size. So "22-124" tells me that it's a 907 6 foot. They were made between 1964-1972. Messicks has a parts diagram for the unit and some parts are available through them. Just search 22-124 in New Holland Agriculture on the left side of their home page.

The bolts circled in this picture are the roller adjustment.

View attachment 628712

The roller is currently set at the lowest setting. Move it one notch and check the result. If it's not satisfactory move it to the last notch (only 3 options).

Do you know the manufacture dates of the 917?

 

[TheFarmerInAdell]

Do you know the manufacture dates of the 917?

Depends on the numbers on the tag.
22-183 (62") was 73-84
22-184/5 (74"/88") was 73-76
22-205/6/7 (62"/74"/88") 75-80
22BU5001 and 22BU6001 (917L 50" and 60") 86-90
22NW0001/2/3/4 (917A 62"/74"/88"/48") looks like it was only 1985

 

[JWR]

That would be the Ford 907. Uses the same blades as the 917, but different hangers.

Your roller is set to it's lowest setting. Good for soccer fields, bad for anything not flat. Set it to a higher setting and try it again. The skids are there as a means of protection to prevent bottoming out, not for riding on. The roller should be carrying it.

This is really accurate advice, pretty much regardless of the brand/model flail mower. The things are designed to ride on the big roller. My Alamo SHD88 is another example that way. Very common.

 

[Fallon]

907 you say? Thanks! The tag is not very readable. So I'll look to drop the roller, and I guess adjust the top link to get the side skids up and out of the dirt.

Thanks!

Yup. Skids are there only to prevent the rotor (and to a lesser degree the knives themselves) from hitting the dirt. The skids should rarely if ever hit the ground. The roller should pretty much always be on the ground unless raised for transport or doing something unusual like hanging it over a ditch.

In theory you should keep the gearbox level & raise/lower the roller to adjust cut height. The roller adjustment on my 917 was welded in place years before I salvaged it. Raising & lowering the 3pt works fine for height adjustment for me. I still do the same thing with the new Peruzzo & have yet to mess with roller height in several seasons there.

 

[TheFarmerInAdell]

I use my hydraulic top link for fine tuning of the height so I can keep the roller in a pre-set position. I typically mow to roughly the same height. Occasionally I'll leave the 3 point set and float the hyd top link, depending on what I'm cutting.

 

[jimmychew]

The tag doesn't give you the "907". It tells you their code for the model and size. So "22-124" tells me that it's a 907 6 foot. They were made between 1964-1972. Messicks has a parts diagram for the unit and some parts are available through them. Just search 22-124 in New Holland Agriculture on the left side of their home page.

The bolts circled in this picture are the roller adjustment.

View attachment 628712

The roller is currently set at the lowest setting. Move it one notch and check the result. If it's not satisfactory move it to the last notch (only 3 options).

I went out and dropped it right down to the lowest setting and went for another run, works great.

Thanks!

 

[Molalla1]

Molalla1 was this for me or Flailmaster?

Flailmasters . . .

 

[Fallon]

I use my hydraulic top link for fine tuning of the height so I can keep the roller in a pre-set position. I typically mow to roughly the same height. Occasionally I'll leave the 3 point set and float the hyd top link, depending on what I'm cutting.

My toplink is always set to float for every mower flail or rotary when mowing. It's only locked when transporting, being backed over a ditch or something.

 

[jimmychew]

What are you guys using for replacement flails? I see Tisco has some that are suppose to be oem type for the original Ford flails.

How bout sharpening? Is it worth the time?