Tach/Electrical Issue
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Lockport
Platinum Member
Ok, so the lower dash panel comes off via four 10mm bolts. You'll have to remove the rubber grommets, both the blank and the one around the throttle and the steering assembly boot will fight with you, too.
From here you access the six 10mm bolts that secure the upper dash assembly, along with the two 10mm on either side at the bottom and plainly visible.
The relay is visible as soon as the shroud is pulled back beneath the springs for the brake.
I took the 20/30A and replaced it with a 30/40A to test. All worked. Gauges, lights, dash. I put the original back and, oddly, it worked again. Nonetheless, and only having the 30/40A on hand, I've used it as a replacement.
Make note that two of the bolts are shorter than the others and admittedly I lost track of where they came from. Nonetheless, it all went back together ok.
From here you access the six 10mm bolts that secure the upper dash assembly, along with the two 10mm on either side at the bottom and plainly visible.
The relay is visible as soon as the shroud is pulled back beneath the springs for the brake.
I took the 20/30A and replaced it with a 30/40A to test. All worked. Gauges, lights, dash. I put the original back and, oddly, it worked again. Nonetheless, and only having the 30/40A on hand, I've used it as a replacement.
Make note that two of the bolts are shorter than the others and admittedly I lost track of where they came from. Nonetheless, it all went back together ok.
Last edited:
Lockport
Platinum Member
Thanks Winston1!
I think we must've been posting at the same time as I'd not seen yours until much later. I skipped removing the quick guide holder and managed to get just enough access without disconnecting any of the electrics as well. All in all its a difficulty of 5 on a 1-10.
I think we must've been posting at the same time as I'd not seen yours until much later. I skipped removing the quick guide holder and managed to get just enough access without disconnecting any of the electrics as well. All in all its a difficulty of 5 on a 1-10.For all of you having these mystery electrical problems, I probably have the answer for you. Behind the steering column cover you will see the main harness snaking across the floor. You will notice what looks like an inline fuse holder wrapped with tape. Take the tape off and you will find a multi pin plug that is a common connnection ( bus bar ) for multiple electrical sub systems. On mine one pin was corroded ( presumabely the ground ). I cleaned up this pin and re-assembled with dialectric grease and voila everything came back to life. Took me two years of living without lights and a dash to finally find it.
Hope that helped.
Hope that helped.
powerscol
Veteran Member
So to continue the saga... I took the connector apart to take pictures and I lost my lights again...lol
So there's obviously a soft socket in the female part of this plug. I may just solder all the wires together. That's for tomorrow though when it's cooler.
Shared album - Tim Cartwright - Google Photos
I decided to pull my dash cover back off in hopes this connector TCARTWRI spoke of might be the problem with my temperature gauge maxing out when I turn my lights on and no dash lights. A failure on my attempt. There are 7 connectors to unplug in order to remove the dash cover. I sprayed all seven with contact cleaner. A visual inspection indicated no problems. Oh well. :confused3: I did take some pictures thinking it might help someone down the road. 4 bolts removes the little center cover. 8 bolts to remove the dash holder or cover. All are 10mm socket size. The 7 connectors must be unplugged before completely removing the cover.
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powerscol
Veteran Member
This may be a redundant question, but have you removed and cleaned all ground connections. This should include the primary one from the battery to the frame. Also trace the temp gauge wire back - could be a gap in the insulation somewhere.
Hope this helps
Temperature gauge seems to work normal. when I unplug it from the sender it dies, normally runs 1st mark from start. Turn lights on bright or dim and it pegs out. I unplugged lights and it still does the same. I haven't cleaned grounds in a while but I have since this problem begin. Blinkers, hazards, brake light, work light all work and temp gauge works normal with all them. Headlights is the only thing that affects it so there has to be something common between them.
lilranch2001
Super Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2009
- Messages
- 9,030
- Tractor
- Bobcat CT 235
I do not understand why these manufacturers pack so much crap under a dashboard, and then makes them so hard to access
Dr_Zinj
Veteran Member
Not any more. Cheap fix is to take a plastic milk bottle cap and it fits over the switch perfectly.
tinman955
Gold Member
Im back having problems with my CT450 cab. No glow plug activity, no dash activity, no head lights...New battery, new cables, main ground on frame cleaned up. I replaced all of the relays with no luck. I need to do a hard trouble shoot as now that its cold I need the glow plugs to work.
Lockport
Platinum Member
Shot in the dark: replace the ignition?
Bluegrass2621
Member
I had the same problem with my CT445 last year. It turned out to be one of the wires in a relay plug had slide down partially so it wasn稚 making contact. I pushed it back in place and haven稚 had any trouble with it since. It was one of the firewall relays.
SSdoxie
Elite Member
Turn key to left and hold for manual glow plug activation. If glow plug light comes on, voltage to glow plugs then 60 amp fuse is working and problem is most likely at ignition switch. If glow plugs still not operating with key to left check 60 amp fuse and circuit to the B post of ignition. Easy test of 60 amp fuse with volt meter: Read volts at the battery post to establish base line volt reading for next tests. Read voltage at Battery + connection at starter, then without moving ground connection read volts at + post of alternator. If correct volts at starter but not at alternator then check the main (60 amp) fuse in the harness. Battery voltage to alternator pass through the main fuse.
If fuse test is OK then test volts at B post of ignition. If correct volts there then ignition switch is not contacting.
If fuse test is OK then test volts at B post of ignition. If correct volts there then ignition switch is not contacting.
tinman955
Gold Member
I believe this is the problem, the pins are seated the whole way but look corroded or dirty, poor contact. Any idea how they come out of the holder or pin connector? i'm not sure how to clean them, id rather maybe just cut them off and redue the plug... My 60 amp fuses are good, 2 of them by the starter.
lilranch2001
Super Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2009
- Messages
- 9,030
- Tractor
- Bobcat CT 235
I would spray the whole connector and pins with electrical contact cleaner, replug it and see if it changes your conditiones.
If it does fix your issue remove and spray with dielectric grease and reconnect.
If it does fix your issue remove and spray with dielectric grease and reconnect.
powerscol
Veteran Member
In the fuse block there is a small low amp fuse that controls a circuit that controls everything. I posted about it a ways back when my tractor went dead after jumping in the seat. It was very hard to see that it was bad. I had to use my meter.
BTW There are new blade fuses out there now that if the fuse blows it lights up. I use them as I have issues.
If I can find my post I will edit here.
Edit - found it - #7 (5a) was blown (could not tell unless looked at closely). this one is labeled "Operational Control Unit / Switched power relay.
