Buying Advice Southern VT Newbie Advice

[arrow]

sounds _huge_ (and expensive). Like "won't even fit in my barn" huge, but maybe not. Good to get opinions in either case.

Hmm. Just in case you've misinterpreted. I actually "down sized" my previous recommendation. At first, thinking you were going to log your land of 180 acres, I recommended a 4000-5000 (before the fel and weighting) lb machine so you could take out larger loads if going greater cycle distances especially if you were going to feed a wood boiler.
Now that you've added additional thoughts, I am now saying you would only need a 2500 lb machine . This would be more of an overall tractor that you could use around the house to save your back. After the fel is added along with loaded tires, this tractor will now approach 4000 lbs. This size will do a lot of work for you without being gargantuan.

 

[fruitcakesa]

I installed my Green's Machine Thumb myself;third function installed by my dealer.I have the ability to weld and lots of tools.I welded an
angle iron to the top of the bucket with nuts welded to the bottom(for easy removal of thumb).I realize every-one doesn't have these capabilities.Very minor job for a weld shop. A little effort will save a lot of money.

I had mine welded into my forks as bolting was not really feasible with the fork backer it has

 

[Jack Murdock]

I should do that. Any idea what a third dealer installed goes for ? I have a JD

Thanks

 

[fruitcakesa]

I should do that. Any idea what a third dealer installed goes for ? I have a JD

Thanks

<$1k; I was guessing $300 for the labor and the 36" thumb and base was $550 delivered
I see that Greens is out of stock of most of the thumbs.
I guess they are catching on as they are so much less costly than a dedicated grapple.

 

[Cranblue]

I also bought a 4701 loader and back hoe,4K pallet forks,and quick hitch very happy with its power capability for its size !!!

 

[wassup8687]

You'd be fine with a 25 hp tractor. You can get grapples from 1k as I've read posts where guys have purchased MTL grapples that work great. The bucket will easily clear your snow and comes with the tractor.

You can get a 2 bottom plow used from Craigslist and turn your soil over then buy a 3pt tiller that will work the soil.

 

[Bullwinkle123]

Hmm. Just in case you've misinterpreted. I actually "down sized" my previous recommendation. At first, thinking you were going to log your land of 180 acres, I recommended a 4000-5000 (before the fel and weighting) lb machine so you could take out larger loads if going greater cycle distances especially if you were going to feed a wood boiler.
Now that you've added additional thoughts, I am now saying you would only need a 2500 lb machine . This would be more of an overall tractor that you could use around the house to save your back. After the fel is added along with loaded tires, this tractor will now approach 4000 lbs. This size will do a lot of work for you without being gargantuan.

Since posting this topic and digesting the replies, and also in the course of my research of all manner of things, I'm now leaning toward in the "not less than 37 HP" category (more if circumstances permit), and giving some value to the weight of the tractor. This is partly because while my driveway is reasonably flat, the my woods and field are decidedly sloped andor uneven terrain. So mostly there's a variable in my mental equation for this which relates to stability. Plus, knowing that moving trees on a regular basis is required, that also makes me lean toward something heavier. (Whether or not I work at wood for a boiler, I'm constantly having to move downed trees).

Anyway, I don't have any targets yet, and it may come down to opportunity when I buy. But I'm definitely valuing a bigger bit of machinery now. I'm also going to do more boiler research try to get a better picture (if I can) of whether I'm laying in wood for the boiler or not. I'm also flip-flopping on the snow removal aspect, though more weight sounds like a good idea, so that the tractor can push/blow the snow, and not the other way around.

 

[Bullwinkle123]

To all, I'm searching but haven't yet found a topic about "resale potential" of tractors. I'm trying to figure out if I can justify extra cost with the assumption that I'll eventually sell it and recoup a reasonable portion of my investment. What is the depreciation factor? What percentage might I eventually get back in 10/15/20 years assuming relatively light use and good care? My attachments will likely have to live outside somewhere, the tractor should fit in my barn (which is kind of short) or garage (which is extra tall).

[Update]: I read a bunch of "resale value" topics. There seems to be a consensus in those topics that tractors have a very low rate of depreciation, after an initial hit, and that buying a new one is, at the least, not a mistake should you sell it some years later, because they hold their value so well. With some variation for regional differences, brand in the region, and so forth (and of course, how well you take care of it). So, it may be a bigger initial outlay, but with more peace of mind from the warrantee, and good recovery at the time of reselling. At least for the tractor itself, vs attachments. Again, what I'm reciting here is what I felt was the consensus after reading many topics in this web site on resale value. There was also some religion and personal-when-it-shouldn't-be discussion in those discussions. Or do you feel I've arrived at the wrong concensus?

 

[Bullwinkle123]

tractorhouse.com

Looking at the listings on tractorhouse.com and craiglist, I notice that most entries are pretty nonspecific about the transmission and just say "4WD" or WFxx or something, with little indication (that I"m able to read) about whether the transmissions are hydrostatic. Is there a trick to reading these? Or should I assume all ads are for geared transmissions unless they explicitly say HST or something in the additional comments?

I saw very few that were explicit about syncro, shuttle, or other geared options.

 

[redman135]

Hello bullwinkle123, in post #47 you state that your land is "decidedly sloped and/or uneven" Well be aware that on many tractors(mostly with ag tyre/rim ), you can set the wheels out wide to increase stability. eg Going from 6ft wide to 7ft wide makes a surprising difference.
The rear wheels are the ones that matter. If you widen the front tyres, just line up the inside of the front tyre with the inside of the rear tyre.