It's a muddy mess. It's a good base and doesn't rut, but the top 1" has been soup all winter since we are getting lots of rain and only top layer freeze/thawing (it's been very mild this winter). Our cars are a mess and so are our kids getting in and out. Would like to control a little of that if possible.
Let's talk driveway material. Just under 1/2 mile long.
- Thread starter MGH PA
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It's a muddy mess. It's a good base and doesn't rut, but the top 1" has been soup all winter since we are getting lots of rain and only top layer freeze/thawing (it's been very mild this winter). Our cars are a mess and so are our kids getting in and out. Would like to control a little of that if possible.
mapper
Veteran Member
I would worry about the lack of ditches, the surface of the driveway is flush with the ground on both sides. There is nowhere for water to drain off, unless it is built across an area that could be used as a gravel mine....
What kind of traffic on your driveway? Id suggest at least 6 inches of 3/4 crusher run crushed limestone. If you have heavy truck/equipment go at least 12 inches with geotextile fabric underneath. Pack it well. If you want it looking real smooth wait a year and put 1 inch of 1/4 crusher run crushed limestone on top and pack it again. It will feel like a paved driveway at the end.
If you go the 12 inch thick route and crown the top for good drainage you will never have ruts, only need to touch it up with the tractor blade in late spring.
If you go the 12 inch thick route and crown the top for good drainage you will never have ruts, only need to touch it up with the tractor blade in late spring.
The pictures are a little deceiving, but it's above grade in all spots but where that flamingo is (hence why we had to till that low spot...we think that needs built up or even a ditch/pipe put in there).
I know it will be pricey, but just looking for my best options. My dad's 1/4 mile driveway is just 2b, and he top dresses it every few years, and it still just gets pushed off to the sides or down in. Too much money and labor for long term for me.
Mikester, it's just residential traffic (my wife and I). However, the driveway does cross part of my parents farm that is leased to a local farmer. I know he's been using parts of it to access the fields with his equipment.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Egon
Epic Contributor
With a good base & muddy top cutting in some defined ditches for water control may be what is required.
old and tired
Veteran Member
Recycled asphalt would NOT be my choice, unless you have a professional install it ($$$). Neighbor did this himself (first 10th of a mile), lots of potholes / standing water... and no good way to repair that section.
3" of Crusher run should be compacted (rolled) to make it work it's best. If you do it yourself and just drive over it to compacted, you may get some potholes develop but you can repair those pretty easily by yourself. Then you can easily maintain it with a landplane vs. using a box blade.
3" of Crusher run should be compacted (rolled) to make it work it's best. If you do it yourself and just drive over it to compacted, you may get some potholes develop but you can repair those pretty easily by yourself. Then you can easily maintain it with a landplane vs. using a box blade.
LouNY
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Your driveway looks good to me as is.
If you want a smoother finer surface fine crusher run and dust will do that.
The nicer the driveway the faster the traffic, faster traffic equals more dust clouds.
The dust is your driveway loosing fines which are what binds it together.
You will need to do something for dust control or continually add fines to keep the roadbed
tightly compacted.
As a side note many of the roads around here had a crushed shale sub grade when they were initially done,
after many freeze thaw cycles and vibration from traffic the crushed shale has reverted to blue or green clay.
It did take about 30-40 years.
If you want a smoother finer surface fine crusher run and dust will do that.
The nicer the driveway the faster the traffic, faster traffic equals more dust clouds.
The dust is your driveway loosing fines which are what binds it together.
You will need to do something for dust control or continually add fines to keep the roadbed
tightly compacted.
As a side note many of the roads around here had a crushed shale sub grade when they were initially done,
after many freeze thaw cycles and vibration from traffic the crushed shale has reverted to blue or green clay.
It did take about 30-40 years.
MikeInEburg
Veteran Member
So true. Night and day difference between the two for regular maintenance.
ustmd
Platinum Member
Some good advice here. I maintain a 3/4 mile driveway that is share by 3 houses. I would highly recommend getting a land plane\dual edge box blade. It is head and shoulders better than a standard box blade for road maintenance.