My Industrial Cabin Build

   / My Industrial Cabin Build #711  
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #712  
There are structural screws made specifically for hangers. Much easier to install than nails in some cases, but more expensive.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #713  
I believe that only nails have the 都hear strength for joist hangars.

Simpson has some screws that are acceptable for many types of hangers. But it needs to be confirmed -- I hear some building inspectors will not accept them even though the tech data is valid.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #714  
It simply is not in the budget. I will hire a crane and operator to put the joists and roof truss timbers up. And I will try to have at least 3 more people on hand to help out. But I would have to take out a heavy loan to hire a contractor.
Understand .
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #715  
Not a great picture but here are some code-friendly Simpson screws I use interchangeably with nails in Simpson hangers (again, confirm with local building inspector first):

screws.jpg

simpson-strong-tie-wood-screws-sd9112r100-64_1000.jpg

Screws to be careful about are the generic "deck" or "construction" screws, the ones you see with a star drive and green or tan paint. They are great screws and I use them a lot, but they will not pass for nails in most all cases. In some cases (pullout load) they are superior to nails, and I used them on roof purlins of a pole barn several times. For shear load they are OK but not rated like a framing nail. So be careful with those in any application where they are used.

I am in love with the new breed of structural lag screws like these GRK screws Lowes sells:

628611122258.jpg

Many of these are rated for structural use and so much nicer than traditional lag bolts.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #716  
Did not mean to offend or degrade . Only concerned with your safety . You are along way from help . Kevin .
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #717  
Good stuff s219. Thanks for posting this!!!! There's such a huge selection anymore that I find myself standing in the aisle staring at all of them not having a clue which to get.....
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #718  
Murphy, thereç—´ no danger of hiring out, until we get to drywall. I was up last night reading code and å*µreen building best practices as I get ready to set my joist hangers. I have to make a tun to the hardware store now, because my supply of screws does not meet the specs for the joist hangers.

This is what i usually use for installing hangers. Simpson Strong-Tie Strong-Drive 10d x 1-1/2 in. Do you have a pneumatic hand held palm nailer ? These are great small nailers to use in tight quarters or for driving nails in joist hangers !! Sure saves your wrist and elbow !
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #719  
Not a great picture but here are some code-friendly Simpson screws I use interchangeably with nails in Simpson hangers (again, confirm with local building inspector first):

View attachment 641662

View attachment 641663

Screws to be careful about are the generic "deck" or "construction" screws, the ones you see with a star drive and green or tan paint. They are great screws and I use them a lot, but they will not pass for nails in most all cases. In some cases (pullout load) they are superior to nails, and I used them on roof purlins of a pole barn several times. For shear load they are OK but not rated like a framing nail. So be careful with those in any application where they are used.

I am in love with the new breed of structural lag screws like these GRK screws Lowes sells:

View attachment 641665

Many of these are rated for structural use and so much nicer than traditional lag bolts.

I use the Simpson screws for hangers. The biggest advantage is how easy they are to install, and even easier to take out and adjust if you have to. If you don't have a lot of experience installing joist hangers, I've found that it's easiest to install the joist first with the nail gun. Just toe nail it into place with one or two nails so it doesn't go anywhere. Get all the joists installed this way and make sure they are where they are supposed to be. Then go back and install the hangers. This is faster and you get better results.

Hiring it done is a lot easier and usually faster, unless you have to wait for the crew to show up. But I'm a do it yourself kind of guy. I like to know exactly how it all goes together, and I want to know that it was done exactly how I wanted it done. I repair too many brand new homes that somebody along the way cut a corner and nobody knew about it until it was an issue. If somebody else can do it, I'm pretty sure that I can figure out how to do it too. Only things I wont do are spread concrete and AC work. Everything else is pretty easy to do on your own.

For working up high, something that you will see crews do a lot is build their own home made scaffolding out of 2x4's and 2x6's. This might sound risky to some people, but when compared to climbing up and down ladders, and for the long duration of the job, those home made scaffolds are a huge time saver. I use screws and when I'm done, I still have good, usable lumber after taking them all apart. I have one scaffold that I use for small jobs, but rarely use it. Lately I've been thinking about building a giant, movable stair case that's 8 feet wide on casters that I can get up and down quickly, carry material up quickly, and work on a larger area. I might even make it 10 feet wide. It's one of those ideas that makes more sense to me the more I think about it.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #720  
^^ what Eddie said

I also put hangers on later if I can. On my build that was a rainy day project.

And I built temp scaffolding on my build project, here’s a look ahead.
IMG_3560.JPG
 

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