What have you done with/to your GC Series 2300, 2400, 1700 Tractor TODAY

MF RED in MT · Mar 7, 2020

thanks for the information, but for me I just have gravel for everything that I snowblow.

I start the season with the MF dozer blade with those shoes pretty low, and when I switch to the snowblower there's about 2" of ice and snow.

Must be springtime, today a sunny area of the driveway had "ice off", about 3 square feet near the road.

I am just waiting things out and if it stays like this I'll be switching back to the MF dozer blade soon.

KC

Jaylegger · Mar 7, 2020

MF RED in MT said:
thanks for the information, but for me I just have gravel for everything that I snowblow.

I start the season with the MF dozer blade with those shoes pretty low, and when I switch to the snowblower there's about 2" of ice and snow.

Must be springtime, today a sunny area of the driveway had "ice off", about 3 square feet near the road.

I am just waiting things out and if it stays like this I'll be switching back to the MF dozer blade soon.

KC

My biggest mistake was selling the hydraulic dozer blade. One day I decided I needed to free up some garage space and the dozer was sold the next (pretty much gave it away, not too unlike my retirement investment strategy). But even so, with the alternating base of gravel to concrete/pavement that I deal with the addition of these shoes made huge difference in the headache factor.

irvingj · Mar 8, 2020

You guys are correct, I go through scraper blades pretty quickly; have to check often to see how many & how much the nuts on the underside have been ground down. Had a local steel fabricator that could make blades for me inexpensively, but they got bought out by a national chain and now don't do any "custom" jobs at all, only sell truckloads of re-bar. A real loss, IMO. I get 2+ seasons out of the mild steel ones -- watch them, flip 'em over when they get ground down too much, replace carriage bolts & nuts as necessary.

I did get a couple 1/4" x 3" x 48" UHMWPE blades to try out, but haven't yet done so.

The scraping-down-to-the-pavement just works too well on my north-slope driveway; any sun at all and it clears off & dries quickly, especially from mid-January on. Did the "build up a good base of packed snow first" routine for a number of years before paving; that worked OK, until springtime when it all turned to 3" thick ice.... Had to keep a bunch of sand handy!

wakeshredder · Mar 8, 2020

MoMower said:
Stopped in the dealer today to pick up the part to solve the always full fuel gauge.

One of the mechanics comes running out and wants to know what was wrong with my 1710 when I sold it and how many hours on it? I told him nothing and 595. He takes me outback and there it sits, guy I sold it to traded it in a 1723, at 660 hours. Nothing wrong with it, he just wanted the upgrades too...lol

What is the part that fixes the fuel gauge issue?? I didn't know there was a fix!

Langanobob · Mar 8, 2020

Some of-them don’t need a part. The three Phillips head screws on the back of the gauge are part of the electrical ground circuit. On mine all iI had to do was loosen those screws half a turn to break the conformal coating they sprayed on them and re-tighten them. Wallah! A working fuel gauge. However, I don’t recall if mine was showing always empty or always full and this isn’t a fix for both conditions.

WranglerX · Mar 8, 2020

Langanobob said:
Some of-them don’t need a part. The three Phillips head screws on the back of the gauge are part of the electrical ground circuit. On mine all iI had to do was loosen those screws half a turn to break the conformal coating they sprayed on them and re-tighten them. Wallah! A working fuel gauge. However, I don’t recall if mine was showing always empty or always full and this isn’t a fix for both conditions.

Had similar issue on my GC 1715 when I got it new temp gauge would not function... Loose screws on back of gauge terminals where the went through PC board....

Dale

not2old · Mar 8, 2020

Langanobob said:
Some of-them don’t need a part. The three Phillips head screws on the back of the gauge are part of the electrical ground circuit. On mine all iI had to do was loosen those screws half a turn to break the conformal coating they sprayed on them and re-tighten them. Wallah! A working fuel gauge. However, I don’t recall if mine was showing always empty or always full and this isn’t a fix for both conditions.

I have a GC2610. When the fuel gauge doesn't appear to be working I just give the side of the instrument panel a thump and it works again for a few weeks.