My Garage/Shop Heater Install

   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install #151  
LEAVING NOW... :mad:
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install
  • Thread Starter
#152  
Okay went back out to the main tank. Made sure my cheap DMM was zero'd and laying flat. Backed the gas down, hooked up the DMM and cranked it to 12.95. The regulator on the tank says '9 - 13' range. Fired it up and it stayed lit. Heated up the shop to 62deg in short order. Heat shut off and fan continued for a while and shut off. I then 'cranked' the thermo to 63deg. It fired again, fan came on (set at auto) and it performed.

Noticed that the yellow LED is now on but blinking. Should be steady. Manual says slow blinking yellow light means "weak flame (current below 1.0 microamps +/- 50%)". Not sure of remedy here but things are working. Going to monitor this more.

Also now I think I had better check the manifold pressure now that it is working, as the manual said it should not exceed 10 w.c.
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install
  • Thread Starter
#153  
More details... the tank outlet pressure drops 1 inH20 while burner on. Going out now in a T-shirt to bask. Hate to shut her down to remove the DMM from the tank regulator but want to check the manifold pressure. Cross your fingers this wasn't a one-time event!
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install
  • Thread Starter
#154  
Checked the manifold pressure and it is dialed in! 10.0. Noticing the humidity is dropping significantly. Exactly what I was hoping! Now just have to program the thermostat, restock the mini fridge, and make room for a recliner. :D

Actually, stay tuned for another shop project... a sink and hot running water!

Hey Ron... wanna buy your old propane tank back? :D. Just kidding... Don't need to power my stupid little Mr. Heater anymore!

IMG_2567.jpeg
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install #155  
Cool; in my world, "DMM" means Digital MULTI Meter (the one I've been asking about) - a weak pilot usually means either too much or too LITTLE flame impinging on the flame rod (assuming the flame rod is NOT bad) -

Next thing I would do is re-read my flame rod test paragraph, and (if you actually HAVE a Digital MULTI-meter) set the meter up for DC ONLY, MANUAL range (at least 100 volts), carefully ground the negative lead to chassis, clip the positive lead to the flame rod wire, light the heater, let it run, check the DC volts - again, should have at least 20 VDC. That might STILL give you a blinking flame led, it's close to borderline.

Next, I would start lowering gas pressure SLOWLY, while WATCHING the DC volts - if it gets LESS, go the opposite direction on pressure. You should find a "sweet spot" that way. If not, you might need to see if you can tweak the actual POSITION of the flame rod - that gets trickier AND more PAINFUL, unless you kill ALL POWER to the unit THEN tweak a bit and re-try.

BTW, my "voltage method" isn't taught in any instrumentation school I'm aware of, just something I learned thru working on several hundred gas fired devices. Beats having to carry a micro-ammeter around WITHOUT damaging it (most industrial devices have a little mini-phone plug on flame detectors for connecting a micro-ammeter, but there are also standard terminals for each burner if you're sly)

Anyway, you might get away with just running it, but it sounds like it may be a bit flaky til you look further... Steve
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install #156  
"Don't need to power my stupid little Mr. Heater anymore!"

same here, got one of those that will NEVER get used indoors again - saving it for those really obnoxious repairs that happen outside @ less than 45 degrees while wallowing in mud under a backhoe - nuthin' I could do about humidity in those cases anyway... Steve
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install
  • Thread Starter
#157  
Cool; in my world, "DMM" means Digital MULTI Meter (the one I've been asking about) - a weak pilot usually means either too much or too LITTLE flame impinging on the flame rod (assuming the flame rod is NOT bad) -
Oops... yes, I adopted it to mean Digital Mano Meter. :D. My bad.
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install
  • Thread Starter
#158  
Next thing I would do is re-read my flame rod test paragraph, and (if you actually HAVE a Digital MULTI-meter) set the meter up for DC ONLY, MANUAL range (at least 100 volts), carefully ground the negative lead to chassis, clip the positive lead to the flame rod wire, light the heater, let it run, check the DC volts - again, should have at least 20 VDC. That might STILL give you a blinking flame led, it's close to borderline.
I think I can do at least that diagnostic check. I do have a nice proper DMM as well as a couple of not so nice ones. For tonight.. I am gonna let it run... and bask in the 'sun'.
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install #159  
Checked the manifold pressure and it is dialed in! 10.0. Noticing the humidity is dropping significantly. Exactly what I was hoping! Now just have to program the thermostat, restock the mini fridge, and make room for a recliner. :D

Actually, stay tuned for another shop project... a sink and hot running water!

Hey Ron... wanna buy your old propane tank back? :D. Just kidding... Don't need to power my stupid little Mr. Heater anymore!

View attachment 648744

I now want to get rid of the other one I have. You should have bought it, it was the one with the liquid valve to fill small tanks from. I don't have room for mush else around here. If the rain would stop I want to get those implements off the trailer and put most up for sale. I will be in a bargaining mood. I will try and sell the other tank then also. What else do you need?

Ron
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install
  • Thread Starter
#160  
Status report... quarantine situation looking better. I can better practice social distancing with my wife. :D

Pumped up the shop temp to see how humidity would respond. A balmy 69degF and 45% RH inside. 40degF and 84% RH outside reading from my PWS (Personal Weather Station). This should solve my tool moisture and rust issues by drying the air while heating it. My Mr. Heater dumped a bunch of moisture in the air and I couldn't get below about 66% RH. Was getting a lot of condensation especially inside tool chests and cabinets.

IMG_4048.jpeg IMG_4049.jpeg

Oh and the yellow LED is solid on... so the weak flame seems to have corrected itself (and it didn't require a blue pill)!

Now just have to settle on an away temp setting. Thinking 50degF min and bring it up when present.

And wow... when I turn on my Jet Air Filtration unit my shop is warmed up quickly! I think I did this right.

IMG_4046.jpeg

The heater is quiet but blows a lot of air. Glad I put it in my far corner. Thermostat is at the opposite corner where I spend most of my time. Happy camper!
 

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