Plasma Cutter recommendations.

[Industrial Toys]

Me too. You can always push it beyond it's limit and count on it to work. Prosumer stuff, well not so much.

BUT, in welders of a certain class, that really is being taken over by the prosumer, build it cheaper all the time, thinking. I am curious, how one can make the distinction? Duty cycle maybe?

 

[BufordBoone]

All great info. Love this place.

I'm leaning toward a unit that is dual voltage. When I want to cut small stuff, easy peasy. If I need more capability, I'll take the item over to the 220v outlet.

With Gouging, I see some machines list that ability, some don't. I'm guessing that all will gouge to some extent. Those that specifically list it do it more efficiently. Is that about right?

 

[Big Barn]

I’ve owned plasma cutters for over twenty years now.

I suppose it’s because I’ve never had the time or patience to really experiment, but my experience with a 45 amp (+ or -) is to leave the dial setting at full amps when cutting anything over 16 gauge and adjust my cutting speed accordingly.

I have a 100 amp cutter and I haven’t had occasion to use it much but I am assuming that a bit of adjustment may be necessary because of the larger amperage range.

 

[johncanfield]

....BUT, in welders of a certain class, that really is being taken over by the prosumer, build it cheaper all the time, thinking. I am curious, how one can make the distinction? Duty cycle maybe?

Duty cycle is one important attribute for the guy that's in a shop welding all day long. I have a Hobart IronMan 230 (250 amps) with about a 30-50% duty cycle, I forgot exactly but I've never had it shut down due to duty cycle. For me, hobby and ranch welding, availability of service is important. I did not want to pack up a 50 pound welder and sent it to Washington or California for service. For a shop or pro weldor, down time is critical. (Welder= the box, weldor= the person .) They need fast local service.

All great info. Love this place.

I'm leaning toward a unit that is dual voltage. When I want to cut small stuff, easy peasy. If I need more capability, I'll take the item over to the 220v outlet.

With Gouging, I see some machines list that ability, some don't. I'm guessing that all will gouge to some extent. Those that specifically list it do it more efficiently. Is that about right?

I have a small Esab 161LTS DC inverter welder (that could convert to TIG) that's dual voltage - a fantastic little box and does a great job running on 120V when I don't have 220V available. About gouging - I never investigated that capability, I bought my Hypertherm 45 assuming it would do anything I needed (haven't been disappointed.)

....I suppose it’s because I’ve never had the time or patience to really experiment, but my experience with a 45 amp (+ or -) is to leave the dial setting at full amps when cutting anything over 16 gauge and adjust my cutting speed accordingly.

I have a 100 amp cutter and I haven’t had occasion to use it much but I am assuming that a bit of adjustment may be necessary because of the larger amperage range.

I usually dial down the amperage when I'm cutting thin plate, makes for a smaller kerf and less slag to knock off on the bottom

 

[BufordBoone]

From reading a lot of older posts, I see where the Hyper Therm allows "Drag Cutting".

Does this mean you can drag the electrode on the workpiece instead of having to maintain a certain gap? Do other machines not allow that? Does it eat up consumables faster if you drag it on the workpiece?

 

[ovrszd]

I drag cut with my Miller.

 

[Oldpath05]

$700.00-ish four months ago.

 

[TMGT]

From reading a lot of older posts, I see where the Hyper Therm allows "Drag Cutting".

Does this mean you can drag the electrode on the workpiece instead of having to maintain a certain gap? Do other machines not allow that? Does it eat up consumables faster if you drag it on the workpiece?

You can drag cut with hypertherm, it's actually the shield that contacts the work peice, doesn't effect the nozzle. The biggest killers for consumables is piercing and blowback from traveling too fast.

I have 2 hypertherms, a 45 I've had for about 8 years (bought used) and a 105 I use on my cnc table (bought used about 2years ago)

I personally prefer the Hypertherm products.

 

[dragoneggs]

From reading a lot of older posts, I see where the Hyper Therm allows "Drag Cutting".

Does this mean you can drag the electrode on the workpiece instead of having to maintain a certain gap? Do other machines not allow that? Does it eat up consumables faster if you drag it on the workpiece?

Yes, they make drag cutting tips. That's pretty much all I do is drag cut against a straight edge or freehand for shapes.

 

[johncanfield]

Yes, they make drag cutting tips. That's pretty much all I do is drag cut against a straight edge or freehand for shapes.

Yup, I drag cut with my Hypertherm 45 99% of the time following a template or a straight edge.

 

[shaeff]

I love my Hypertherm Powermax 45. Little experience with other brands, but my HT cuts through pretty much anything that conducts electricity. I don't even grind paint or millscale off, I make a clean spot for the ground and cut away.

Edit: there is no standoff required or drag shield for the Hypertherm. The screw on end (forget what they call it ) can be dragged right across whatever you're cutting.

 

[Big Barn]

From reading a lot of older posts, I see where the Hyper Therm allows "Drag Cutting".

Does this mean you can drag the electrode on the workpiece instead of having to maintain a certain gap? Do other machines not allow that? Does it eat up consumables faster if you drag it on the workpiece?

On the Miller, the drag tip is essentially a standoff that helps maintain a correct electrode distance from the workpiece.

 

[Big Barn]

Miller drag shield


Left to right: Miller 100 amp drag shield, 40 amp drag shield, 40 amp gouge shield, 40 amp tip.

 

[TractorGuy]

I use a guide and just drag the tip. I clamp a piece of angle or even a piece of 1/4" flat bar on what ever I'm cutting to use as a guide. No way my nerves could cut a straight line without it.

My Colossal Tech Cut 50F has pilot arc. It came with a wire stand off that clips onto the ceramic shield which got burned up in the early phase of testing. It honestly just got in the way so I took it off and chunked it. I pierce and cut by putting the cutting tip right on the metal and drag it. I could have probably saved a couple of bucks buying a unit without the pilot arc but I only paid $300 for this unit with a handful of consumables.

I have 2 or 3 hours cutting with it but I didn't have to replace the tip until the last 15 minutes of use.

 

[BufordBoone]

Lots of great replies. Lots of info. I have a much better understanding now.

I want a Hypertherm but will probably purchase a more affordable unit as I'm just learning.


Thanks to all.

 

[johncanfield]

I love my Hypertherm Powermax 45. Little experience with other brands, but my HT cuts through pretty much anything that conducts electricity. I don't even grind paint or millscale off, I make a clean spot for the ground and cut away.

Edit: there is no standoff required or drag shield for the Hypertherm. The screw on end (forget what they call it ) can be dragged right across whatever you're cutting.

Huh? I bought Hypertherm drag shields for my 45.

 

[Big Barn]

Huh? I bought Hypertherm drag shields for my 45.

I’m pretty certain you are both correct. Hypertherm calls it a shielded consumable. Creative marketing at play.....

 

[dragoneggs]

I’m pretty certain you are both correct. Hypertherm calls it a shielded consumable. Creative marketing at play.....

Yes, my 45XP came with a drag tip. Don't know the formal name for it.

 

[Big Barn]

Yes, my 45XP came with a drag tip. Don't know the formal name for it.

I believe it’s a dragON tip.

 

[TMGT]

It's just a sheild/deflector for drag-cutting, there are about 7+ different types of shields for the current Hypertherm air plasma's depending on application, not including the different amp rating shields for some styles.