buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
I had those type of wood trusses on my first house.
New garage time!
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buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
I bought direct from the factory. I was going to use a taller one, but they showed me a shorter one with a thicker web, that cost less and had same performance.
dragoneggs
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Might be cheaper but I doubt the same performance all things considered. I-shaped cross section is the most efficient way to design simple engineered beam where bending strength is driving factor vs. shear strength (web strength). The web does relatively little to help with bending strength. Trusses are another level of strength, where instead of relying on the web for stability and shear loads, the truss members are instead compression/tension members but they generally take more vertical space to be efficient... a la roof trusses.
Sometimes space is a restriction requiring stronger materials or more efficient space for bending strengths... especially for long spans. Nowadays it is cheaper to manufacture a wood engineered I beam than a the raw material cost of say a 2x12 fir and can handle longer spans and are more stable.
Sorry for what might appear as a lecture here but I am guessing many don't understand why all the choices in joists.
Locally those are known as tri-force joists. We looked at 3, LVL's, i-joists, and tri-force joists. LVL's were $250 each, 12" on center and can't drill. i-joists had issues with the span and were about $130 each and couldn't get wet, tri-force the guy at the supply yard recommended against them saying alot of people complain of sagging after a period of time.
The tradeready joists were $4024.83 for 33x 24' which was $121.96 each, $376.90 for the 5 at 14'10" which is $75.38, 9 pieces of rim track 12' 12ga for $515.31 or $57.26 each.
With the steel joists it feels like I'm getting the strongest product for the lowest cost. The rim track is extra though.
4570Man
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Those joist with OSB for the upright part and the little piece of pine for the web ( i joist ) suck IMO. There’s the yellow laminated beam that’s good stuff but it’s expensive.
MossRoad
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Amazing price differences.
Citydude
Elite Member
Are you going to have to use the self tapping screws from h*** for the sub floor?
I'm not sure what I'm doing for subfloor yet. The hex heads aren't going to work, I need a different self tapping screw which I don't have yet. I need to do bridging first though I think. Well, maybe not, if bridging pulls them out of 16" it would screw up my grid. It might be a good idea to put the plywood down first so I have everything in the correct position before I cut bridging.
Citydude
Elite Member
One would think the steel hoists would stay true while adding the subfloor. With wood or laminate joists, bridging would be first before the subfloor. Just a guess though....
chim
Elite Member
We've used these for fastening wood to metal and they worked pretty well. The wings make the hole in the wood larger than the screw body and snap off when they hit the metal. There are small fins under the head that aid in getting the heads flush.
#12x2\" Reamer Tek Torx/Star Head Self-Drilling Wood to Metal Screws - for Flatbeds, Trailers or Fastening Wood to Steel - T-3 Torx Screw H
#12x2\" Reamer Tek Torx/Star Head Self-Drilling Wood to Metal Screws - for Flatbeds, Trailers or Fastening Wood to Steel - T-3 Torx Screw H
