Buying Advice Thinking about Yanmar 2210 but need some help

[California]

California ...do you try to put it in gear to move the fluids or just let it sit and run - not sure if the ATF will harm the pump(s)? Also - I saw on another forum someone mentioned a sea foam product called Hydra Trans Tune.

Listen to rScotty on this stuff. He had a tractor shop. I'm just an enthusiastic owner.

Seems to me when you first drain, you might determine there is so much crud that any cheap oil that won't hurt it would serve for the first, short, flush, just to flush out the majority of the snot. (and load it into the strainer that you just cleaned). Then quality stuff for the subsequent flushes.

An A/T shop might have good advice for a flushing additive, SeaFoam or whatever they use. Looking at the parts diagram for Powershift, I think much of the transmission internals are same as the A/T in a small Japanese car of the same era. Datsun 510 or something. So an A/T shop's procedures are applicable.

Yanmar generally put that strainer, a wire mesh filter, behind a triangular plate and in most cases at the bottom of the sump where you can poke in a rag to clean the sump floor. I have no idea if 2210 is built that way.

But my comments are just armchair speculation. Listen to rScotty and the others who have BTDT. I've always wanted a YM2210BD but that's as close as I've been to what you have.

 

[Florida_Farmer]

Again, thanks for all the good wisdom. Got it home yesterday and gave a harder look over. Motor looks great - oil clean and overall tight with no visible leaks, battery is late 2018 and starts right up. A bit more surface rust when I looked closer, mostly on the hood and a fender near the flasher. Lights work, as do dash lights. Found the filter screen cover and sprayed some pb blaster on it last night. Got the box blade off with the help of my loader. 3 point arms act like they are just disconnected - totally free - can lift them up easy and they drop right down when you let go.
I'm going to start with the hydro flush and see where we go.

 

[Florida_Farmer]

Well - drained the hydraulic fluid a few minutes ago.... still working on the screen removal but maybe there was more water in there than I thought.... Capacity I think is 15.8 quarts which is about 4 gallons.... I filled a 5 gallon bucket once and then again about halfway so total with my high school math skill is 7.5 gallons roughly.. that's almost 2x capacity....plus it was nasty light brown coffee looking stuff.

 

[Florida_Farmer]

Update: Cleaned the screen with carb cleaner - let it dry and put it back in. Refilled it with 4.5 gallons of JA20A from Tractor Supply (Hoye recommended). Started it up let it run for a minute then pulled the 3pt. lever and up came the arms! Put it in gear, let out the clutch and off it goes! Runs like a top. Took it for a 20 min ride and not an issue with anything - Powershift is interesting - I need to get used to it a bit but I think it will be handy when bush hogging.
Hit it with the grease gun and noticed that all the rubber boots are in bad shape or gone - does anyone know where to find replacement boots (if they do).?
Anyway, new filters, seat, LED headlights and a few other things shipped from Hoye today so maybe by the weekend will have everything set.
Thanks again for the help.

 

[clemsonfor]

Again, thanks for all the good wisdom. Got it home yesterday and gave a harder look over. Motor looks great - oil clean and overall tight with no visible leaks, battery is late 2018 and starts right up. A bit more surface rust when I looked closer, mostly on the hood and a fender near the flasher. Lights work, as do dash lights. Found the filter screen cover and sprayed some pb blaster on it last night. Got the box blade off with the help of my loader. 3 point arms act like they are just disconnected - totally free - can lift them up easy and they drop right down when you let go.
I'm going to start with the hydro flush and see where we go.

That's the way those work
The piston and the rock shaft are not connected. Fluid pushes the rock shaft and those are connected to the arms to lift implement, when fluid is let out it falls. You can lift them manually and then drop them as you do that the rock shaft slams into the piston when it drops. I have a post about replacing the o ring on it and all the parts and seals that can be. I have pictures of it if curious. The whole three point system is very simple just a simple valve. And the cylinder with that piston..about the size of a hockey puck of I remember right

 

[clemsonfor]

Update: Cleaned the screen with carb cleaner - let it dry and put it back in. Refilled it with 4.5 gallons of JA20A from Tractor Supply (Hoye recommended). Started it up let it run for a minute then pulled the 3pt. lever and up came the arms! Put it in gear, let out the clutch and off it goes! Runs like a top. Took it for a 20 min ride and not an issue with anything - Powershift is interesting - I need to get used to it a bit but I think it will be handy when bush hogging.
Hit it with the grease gun and noticed that all the rubber boots are in bad shape or gone - does anyone know where to find replacement boots (if they do).?
Anyway, new filters, seat, LED headlights and a few other things shipped from Hoye today so maybe by the weekend will have everything set.
Thanks again for the help.

Yea we were pretty sure that fluid was the problem that's about all that's ever wrong with these powershifts. You found a great deal I think any of us who have been around here a few years would of bought that fast. Those clutches and valves and pump don't work well sucking water and sludge.

I would get that thing not a few more times and drop that fluid after a few hours and replace it again to get the rest of the contamination out.

 

[CoyPatton]

You found exactly what many of us suspected.
Extremely glad it was as simple as we thought!
I confer that you should get it warmed up at least 1x more and dump the fluid. Clean the screen and refill. If the fluid coming out is clean and light tan as if new, call it good. If still slimly milky looking continue getting it warmed up and drain, clean screen and fill.
Once fluid is ‘clean’ store tractor out of weather or cover steering column to PTO and range selector.
You also will want to check your steering box for water contamination. Many YM Yanmars are prone for water to run down the steering shaft/column and push the gear oil out of the steering box. Just as the boots around your PTO lever, range selector boot and gear shift boots have allowed water into the tranny.
Sorry I do not know of a source fir boots on grease joints. Perhaps a call to Hoye or Fredrick’s would be able to hook you up with some.

 

[Florida_Farmer]

While I was under the tractor working on the screen - I saw a couple of heavy metal loops which look like maybe where a shaft fits for a drawbar but it's round - does anyone have a drawbar on their 2210? Is it round where it fits in the tractor?

 

[winston1]

Mine was a 2002D but had a round drawbar. Many do.

 

[California]

I think (?) its universal that within the YM's, gray market will have round drawbar. And US YMs, flat bar.

Any more observations out there?