Super nice Kubota excavator

[MossRoad]

Yes, thanks.
Can you show us how? That would be great.

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Of course, don't do that to me, I'd be highly offended. :laughing:

 

[Seven Gables]

I've been following this discussion because at some point I think I'd like to purchase one of these cutters for my mini excavator , both my own use and for hire. In looking at different manufactures I've been kinda leaning towards the Rut tree slayer 42" for my ec60e Volvo (13000lb machine). Got some nice features that I like one of which is you can get carbide cutters on the blade holder to grind with in addition to the blades that they claim will handle 4-6" trees. Made in North Carolina and at 5500.00 seems quite reasonable. If you go to there website fella gives a good overview of it. Any body out out there have one and assessment of it? Also agree for the price they want to rent might as well buy.

 

[Hay Dude]

The machine is included at $750 per day with the head but I agree renting sucks. I壇 way rather buy.

I stand corrected, I think :laughing:
But its still cheaper to own, up to a point.
I couldnt even consider new, I can barely afford used, but my guess is there would be no shortage of new work to go along with the existing work for it.

 

[Hay Dude]

I've been following this discussion because at some point I think I'd like to purchase one of these cutters for my mini excavator , both my own use and for hire. In looking at different manufactures I've been kinda leaning towards the Rut tree slayer 42" for my ec60e Volvo (13000lb machine). Got some nice features that I like one of which is you can get carbide cutters on the blade holder to grind with in addition to the blades that they claim will handle 4-6" trees. Made in North Carolina and at 5500.00 seems quite reasonable. If you go to there website fella gives a good overview of it. Any body out out there have one and assessment of it? Also agree for the price they want to rent might as well buy.

X2
That is one of the cutters I was looking at, too :thumbsup:

 

[Rustyiron]

Ptsg's video above has me considering ordering up some heavy grade chain. That type of mowing is closer to what I do than mowing field edges. I wonder what type of arrangement is used to fasten the chains to the cross bar?

 

[ptsg]

Ptsg's video above has me considering ordering up some heavy grade chain. That type of mowing is closer to what I do than mowing field edges. I wonder what type of arrangement is used to fasten the chains to the cross bar?

The hub on the mower is built slightly different to accept the chains. I'm not entirely sure how the US mowers have the hub made though.

Last picture is from my mower. Roughly 170 hours of brush mowing, along with hitting loads and loads of rocks, hidden pipes, scrap and whatever.

The last link was cracked at the time and it actually broke on that one job. The broken pieces fell right where it broke. Now I'll either cut a link on the good chain to balance things out again or just buy a new set of chains, that's like €20 or €30. Not a big expense considering what the previous chains have dealt.

EDIT: This is not a redneck mod we do to our mowers. They are sold from factory with chains and everything is compliant with all the European safety standards. In fact, blades are offered as an option.

 

[Rustyiron]

I did not know something like that could be rented!!! Might be an option.

I've been "eyeing" this one to try. Excavator - EX 2 - 46,3 lb - w/ Mulcher - Eagle Rental - Commercial, Industrial, Residential Equipment Rentals - Waterville, ME 1
It may be an expensive learning process but I'll know if that's the type and size machine that works for me on our place.
Our woods in places is coming back so dense that the trees don't grow normally, too much competition. Clearing creates more brush than can be practically disposed of and grinding in place is the best option.

 

[ovrszd]

I've been "eyeing" this one to try. Excavator - EX 2 - 46,3 lb - w/ Mulcher - Eagle Rental - Commercial, Industrial, Residential Equipment Rentals - Waterville, ME 491
It may be an expensive learning process but I'll know if that's the type and size machine that works for me on our place.
Our woods in places is coming back so dense that the trees don't grow normally, too much competition. Clearing creates more brush than can be practically disposed of and grinding in place is the best option.

Yes, good idea. For sure that would educate on size needed!!!

 

[ovrszd]

Click on my name.
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Never have to see my comments again.

Of course, don't do that to me, I'd be highly offended. :laughing:

I refuse to "ignore" someone calling me names. If that doesn't work for you Moss, then "ignore" me.

 

[ovrszd]

The hub on the mower is built slightly different to accept the chains. I'm not entirely sure how the US mowers have the hub made though.

Last picture is from my mower. Roughly 170 hours of brush mowing, along with hitting loads and loads of rocks, hidden pipes, scrap and whatever.

The last link was cracked at the time and it actually broke on that one job. The broken pieces fell right where it broke. Now I'll either cut a link on the good chain to balance things out again or just buy a new set of chains, that's like €20 or €30. Not a big expense considering what the previous chains have dealt.

EDIT: This is not a redneck mod we do to our mowers. They are sold from factory with chains and everything is compliant with all the European safety standards. In fact, blades are offered as an option.

View attachment 677673 View attachment 677674 View attachment 677676 View attachment 677675

The pins hold the chains are removable to allow replacement of the chains??

That's a very simple arrangement and could be fabricated pretty easily. Thanks for the great pictures.