buzstockholm
New member
yep this method works real nice cause them chains are HEAVY trying to lift them on by hand...quick and easy...done it now for a couple of years and there is no better way:cool2:
Mounting tire chains
- Thread starter LouNY
- Start date
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KennK
Silver Member
This worked GREAT for me with my 39-1/2 inch tall JD 3320 rear R2 tires.
I layed out the chains behind the tractor, outside studs facing up, to get proper orientation and make sure chains weren't twisted. Then we dragged them so they were immediately behind each wheel.
My pull-up loops were 40 inches long (20 inches if folded in half). I used two 72 inch long heavy hay bale twine (from big bales), used a Sharpie to place a mark 16 inches from each end (the 16 inches were for big looped knots, inserted the twine into the cross chain junction chain links with the Sharpie marks at the chain link, and then tied looped overhand knots to make removal easier. Repeat on each side of the tire - the loop is 40 inches long. I lifted the loop up the rear of the tire until the chain was just shy of mid-height up the back of the tire, and firmly hooked the loop on a lug.
In our first attempt the twine was 6 feet long (3 feet folded in half). It was way too long, and just tried wrapping around the axle without lifting the chain. A good rule of thumb might be to have the loop be the height of the tire. Maybe.
We did both rear tires at the same time. I drove forward slowly, stopping stopping so my wife could arrange/straighten the chains on each side. I stopped when the leading edge of the chain (with the knots) was about halfway down the back of the tire.
I hooked the chain, installed a 5-spring tensioner on the outside of each tire, and then used zip ties to secure dangling chain ends. Oh, and I untied the knots and removed the twine. Never again will I install tire chains the old back breaking way!!!!!
I layed out the chains behind the tractor, outside studs facing up, to get proper orientation and make sure chains weren't twisted. Then we dragged them so they were immediately behind each wheel.
My pull-up loops were 40 inches long (20 inches if folded in half). I used two 72 inch long heavy hay bale twine (from big bales), used a Sharpie to place a mark 16 inches from each end (the 16 inches were for big looped knots, inserted the twine into the cross chain junction chain links with the Sharpie marks at the chain link, and then tied looped overhand knots to make removal easier. Repeat on each side of the tire - the loop is 40 inches long. I lifted the loop up the rear of the tire until the chain was just shy of mid-height up the back of the tire, and firmly hooked the loop on a lug.
In our first attempt the twine was 6 feet long (3 feet folded in half). It was way too long, and just tried wrapping around the axle without lifting the chain. A good rule of thumb might be to have the loop be the height of the tire. Maybe.
We did both rear tires at the same time. I drove forward slowly, stopping stopping so my wife could arrange/straighten the chains on each side. I stopped when the leading edge of the chain (with the knots) was about halfway down the back of the tire.
I hooked the chain, installed a 5-spring tensioner on the outside of each tire, and then used zip ties to secure dangling chain ends. Oh, and I untied the knots and removed the twine. Never again will I install tire chains the old back breaking way!!!!!
powerscol
Veteran Member
I lay my chains out behind the tires with studs down. I make sure chains are stretched out, free of any kinks and constant width. I then back on to them until I have a couple feet in front of the tires (tractor is on the chains). Then with about 3 feet of bailing wire I tie to the two end in front of the tire and pull the first two feet up and snug, and hook the wire over a tire block. I then back up to the point that that end is about a foot off the ground over the end on the drive and connect the inside and then pull the outside snug. Last is to connect the two center diamond links. Doing it this way the tractor does the work of hauling the tire chains on to the tires and gives me good access at the back for linking up.
John_Mc
Elite Member
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- Aug 11, 2001
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- 4,560
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- Monkton, Vermont
- Tractor
- NH TC33D Modified with belly pan, limb risers & FOPS. Honda Pioneer 520 & antique Coot UTV
I used to do it that way. Once I tried the method described in the first post, I never went back. It seems to keep the chains tighter as they get pulled onto the tire.
Ghostrider16
New member
Hi everyone...
I just got some new Aquiline Talon chains for my MX5800. I've never put chains on anything before, let alone slinging these 120 pound chains on those ginormous R4 tires. I pretty much did it the way Lou posted, but I tied a rope around the tire (through a hole in the rim) and hooked the chains to them to pull them over.
Getting them around the tire was pretty easy, but getting them hooked up was a different story. In fact, I only was able to get one on today before I ran our of daylight. My swear jar runneth over...
I know the instructions say to fasten the chains using the same link position on the inside and outside, but the inside was loose enough that I was able to fasten it one link tighter than I was able to on the outside. Is it going to be a problem not having them in the same position? They look pretty straight, but could this mean I have them off center toward the inside?
I just got some new Aquiline Talon chains for my MX5800. I've never put chains on anything before, let alone slinging these 120 pound chains on those ginormous R4 tires. I pretty much did it the way Lou posted, but I tied a rope around the tire (through a hole in the rim) and hooked the chains to them to pull them over.
Getting them around the tire was pretty easy, but getting them hooked up was a different story. In fact, I only was able to get one on today before I ran our of daylight. My swear jar runneth over...
I know the instructions say to fasten the chains using the same link position on the inside and outside, but the inside was loose enough that I was able to fasten it one link tighter than I was able to on the outside. Is it going to be a problem not having them in the same position? They look pretty straight, but could this mean I have them off center toward the inside?
OP
LouNY
Super Star Member
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- Greenwich, NY
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- Branson 8050, IH 574, Oliver 1550 Diesel Utility (traded in on Branson) NH 8160. Kioti CK2620SECH
They will try to travel towards the tighter side a bit.
If you run back and forth a bit then pull the out from the tire at the connection point you should be able to get one more link on the outside.
If not just use them for a bit keeping an eye on them, if they move more to the inside then you will need to readjust them if not your good to go.
If you run back and forth a bit then pull the out from the tire at the connection point you should be able to get one more link on the outside.
If not just use them for a bit keeping an eye on them, if they move more to the inside then you will need to readjust them if not your good to go.
Ghostrider16
New member
Thanks Lou!
cogboy
New member
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- Jul 28, 2011
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- 11
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- Northern, NH
- Tractor
- 2013 Kioti CK30, JD backhoe loader 410C, 1947 Farmall Cub
Mounted tire chains on the tractor this morning using the OP's method for the first time. Very easy and effective. Thanx to the OP and TBN.
Ghostrider16
New member
I've encountered another issue with my Aquiline Talon chains. I think they sent me two different size chains.
One chain fits the tire great. The other chain has a 4" overlap. For those of you who have these chains, this means the split links that need to be connected in the center of the chain overlap by 4" which would leave the chain way too loose.
I have tried both chains on both tires and one chain fits "properly" on both tires whereas the other chain overlaps by the same 4 inches on both tires.
Sound like they sent me one longer than the other, or is there something I might be missing?
One chain fits the tire great. The other chain has a 4" overlap. For those of you who have these chains, this means the split links that need to be connected in the center of the chain overlap by 4" which would leave the chain way too loose.
I have tried both chains on both tires and one chain fits "properly" on both tires whereas the other chain overlaps by the same 4 inches on both tires.
Sound like they sent me one longer than the other, or is there something I might be missing?
OP
LouNY
Super Star Member
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- Greenwich, NY
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- Branson 8050, IH 574, Oliver 1550 Diesel Utility (traded in on Branson) NH 8160. Kioti CK2620SECH
Sounds like you are right,
you will need to cut the last square lose and run the excess to the side link and either cut it off or tie it back along the side.
Do yours have the pin drive clevis making the center squares?
Or do you have the oval connecting links?
I keep a hand full of 6mm or 8mm or 1/4" or 5/16" D shackles on hand for installing and adjusting chains.
D & Bow Shackle - Anchor Boat Marine Chain Rigging Screw Pin 3 4 Stainless Steel | eBay
or like these, a search for D shackles stainless steel screw pin will give plenty to choose from.
Screw Pin D Shackle Stainless Steel
or return your long one for the correct one.
Either way I use shackles for securing the extra links and have several in case a chain were to break.
I have close to 10 years on one set so I expect I'll be doing some repairs sooner or later.
you will need to cut the last square lose and run the excess to the side link and either cut it off or tie it back along the side.
Do yours have the pin drive clevis making the center squares?
Or do you have the oval connecting links?
I keep a hand full of 6mm or 8mm or 1/4" or 5/16" D shackles on hand for installing and adjusting chains.
D & Bow Shackle - Anchor Boat Marine Chain Rigging Screw Pin 3 4 Stainless Steel | eBay
or like these, a search for D shackles stainless steel screw pin will give plenty to choose from.
Screw Pin D Shackle Stainless Steel
or return your long one for the correct one.
Either way I use shackles for securing the extra links and have several in case a chain were to break.
I have close to 10 years on one set so I expect I'll be doing some repairs sooner or later.