Mounting tire chains

[buzstockholm]

yep this method works real nice cause them chains are HEAVY trying to lift them on by hand...quick and easy...done it now for a couple of years and there is no better way:cool2:

 

[KennK]

This worked GREAT for me with my 39-1/2 inch tall JD 3320 rear R2 tires.

I layed out the chains behind the tractor, outside studs facing up, to get proper orientation and make sure chains weren't twisted. Then we dragged them so they were immediately behind each wheel.

My pull-up loops were 40 inches long (20 inches if folded in half). I used two 72 inch long heavy hay bale twine (from big bales), used a Sharpie to place a mark 16 inches from each end (the 16 inches were for big looped knots, inserted the twine into the cross chain junction chain links with the Sharpie marks at the chain link, and then tied looped overhand knots to make removal easier. Repeat on each side of the tire - the loop is 40 inches long. I lifted the loop up the rear of the tire until the chain was just shy of mid-height up the back of the tire, and firmly hooked the loop on a lug.

In our first attempt the twine was 6 feet long (3 feet folded in half). It was way too long, and just tried wrapping around the axle without lifting the chain. A good rule of thumb might be to have the loop be the height of the tire. Maybe.

We did both rear tires at the same time. I drove forward slowly, stopping stopping so my wife could arrange/straighten the chains on each side. I stopped when the leading edge of the chain (with the knots) was about halfway down the back of the tire.

I hooked the chain, installed a 5-spring tensioner on the outside of each tire, and then used zip ties to secure dangling chain ends. Oh, and I untied the knots and removed the twine. Never again will I install tire chains the old back breaking way!!!!!

 

[powerscol]

I lay my chains out behind the tires with studs down. I make sure chains are stretched out, free of any kinks and constant width. I then back on to them until I have a couple feet in front of the tires (tractor is on the chains). Then with about 3 feet of bailing wire I tie to the two end in front of the tire and pull the first two feet up and snug, and hook the wire over a tire block. I then back up to the point that that end is about a foot off the ground over the end on the drive and connect the inside and then pull the outside snug. Last is to connect the two center diamond links. Doing it this way the tractor does the work of hauling the tire chains on to the tires and gives me good access at the back for linking up.

 

[John_Mc]

I lay my chains out behind the tires with studs down. I make sure chains are stretched out, free of any kinks and constant width. I then back on to them until I have a couple feet in front of the tires (tractor is on the chains). Then with about 3 feet of bailing wire I tie to the two end in front of the tire and pull the first two feet up and snug, and hook the wire over a tire block. I then back up to the point that that end is about a foot off the ground over the end on the drive and connect the inside and then pull the outside snug. Last is to connect the two center diamond links. Doing it this way the tractor does the work of hauling the tire chains on to the tires and gives me good access at the back for linking up.

I used to do it that way. Once I tried the method described in the first post, I never went back. It seems to keep the chains tighter as they get pulled onto the tire.

 

[Ghostrider16]

Hi everyone...

I just got some new Aquiline Talon chains for my MX5800. I've never put chains on anything before, let alone slinging these 120 pound chains on those ginormous R4 tires. I pretty much did it the way Lou posted, but I tied a rope around the tire (through a hole in the rim) and hooked the chains to them to pull them over.

Getting them around the tire was pretty easy, but getting them hooked up was a different story. In fact, I only was able to get one on today before I ran our of daylight. My swear jar runneth over...

I know the instructions say to fasten the chains using the same link position on the inside and outside, but the inside was loose enough that I was able to fasten it one link tighter than I was able to on the outside. Is it going to be a problem not having them in the same position? They look pretty straight, but could this mean I have them off center toward the inside?

 

[LouNY]

They will try to travel towards the tighter side a bit.
If you run back and forth a bit then pull the out from the tire at the connection point you should be able to get one more link on the outside.
If not just use them for a bit keeping an eye on them, if they move more to the inside then you will need to readjust them if not your good to go.

 

[Ghostrider16]

They will try to travel towards the tighter side a bit.
If you run back and forth a bit then pull the out from the tire at the connection point you should be able to get one more link on the outside.
If not just use them for a bit keeping an eye on them, if they move more to the inside then you will need to readjust them if not your good to go.

Thanks Lou!

 

[cogboy]

Mounted tire chains on the tractor this morning using the OP's method for the first time. Very easy and effective. Thanx to the OP and TBN.

 

[Ghostrider16]

I've encountered another issue with my Aquiline Talon chains. I think they sent me two different size chains.

One chain fits the tire great. The other chain has a 4" overlap. For those of you who have these chains, this means the split links that need to be connected in the center of the chain overlap by 4" which would leave the chain way too loose.

I have tried both chains on both tires and one chain fits "properly" on both tires whereas the other chain overlaps by the same 4 inches on both tires.

Sound like they sent me one longer than the other, or is there something I might be missing?

 

[LouNY]

Sounds like you are right,
you will need to cut the last square lose and run the excess to the side link and either cut it off or tie it back along the side.
Do yours have the pin drive clevis making the center squares?
Or do you have the oval connecting links?
I keep a hand full of 6mm or 8mm or 1/4" or 5/16" D shackles on hand for installing and adjusting chains.
D & Bow Shackle - Anchor Boat Marine Chain Rigging Screw Pin 34 Stainless Steel | eBay

or like these, a search for D shackles stainless steel screw pin will give plenty to choose from.
Screw Pin D Shackle Stainless Steel

or return your long one for the correct one.
Either way I use shackles for securing the extra links and have several in case a chain were to break.
I have close to 10 years on one set so I expect I'll be doing some repairs sooner or later.

 

[John_Mc]

Personally, I would return the long one for the correct one.

 

[dnw64]

I put chains on one tractor yesterday, there are lots of ways to mount chains I thought I would share the easiest way I have found to do so.

1) lay the chains out with the outside, the ground contact side facing up
2) tie a short cord to the side chains, the length will depend on your tire size, on mine I end up with a V shape about 3 feet.
3) back up to your chain, take the cord and hang it on the tire treads.
4) drive forward slowly, stopping to spread the chain out on your tire.
5) continue doing this till you have rolled the chain up on the tire and have working room at the rear of the tire
6) your chain should be well centered on your tire and have very little slack.
7) fasten your chains.
8) step back and check out your work

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This is the easiest way I have found to do chains, if you are doing this in a shop and can jack up a wheel it works good than also.
On the smaller tires I have jacked them up and chocked the other side to do this, then simply kneel down to do the fastening.
If you find that your rope V is to long when the chain is started up simply stop and leaving your other cord on run a new V and snug it up remove the old and continue. Using this method one person can install heavy chains on large tires. Without straining and hurting themselves. If you take your time after using this method a few times you will find that after your chains are laid out and untangled you can mount them in well under a half hour each with help spreading the chains accross your tire and telling you when to stop it's even easier and you are not fighting with the weight of the chains when fastening the side links.
The shorter the V that works for you the easier to line up and fasten the side links with all the slack taken up by the chains, no fuss no muss.

This is most certainly not the only way, but it is the easiest way I have found.

Lou

I have no idea why these pictures all rotate when I post them.

Not to minimize your efforts or value, but that is the way recommended by the manufacturer of my chains. In fact they came with a piece of rope for that purpose...

 

[John_Mc]

Not to minimize your efforts or value, but that is the way recommended by the manufacturer of my chains. In fact they came with a piece of rope for that purpose...

Unfortunately, far to few people - even those experienced in tractors - seem to know this method, and far too few tire chain manufacturers include this type of instructions with their chains.

 

[Ghostrider16]

Sounds like you are right,
you will need to cut the last square lose and run the excess to the side link and either cut it off or tie it back along the side.
Do yours have the pin drive clevis making the center squares?
Or do you have the oval connecting links?
I keep a hand full of 6mm or 8mm or 1/4" or 5/16" D shackles on hand for installing and adjusting chains.
D & Bow Shackle - Anchor Boat Marine Chain Rigging Screw Pin 34 Stainless Steel | eBay

or like these, a search for D shackles stainless steel screw pin will give plenty to choose from.
Screw Pin D Shackle Stainless Steel

or return your long one for the correct one.
Either way I use shackles for securing the extra links and have several in case a chain were to break.
I have close to 10 years on one set so I expect I'll be doing some repairs sooner or later.

Personally, I would return the long one for the correct one.

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you guys, but thanks much for the responses!

A couple adjustments and we got 'em all fixed up and fitted. Been running them for a couple weeks now and they seem to be working fine!

 

[grsthegreat]

ive been putting chains on my beast of a tractor tire for 9 winters now. hate it every year.

one year i left them off out of spite, and ended up getting stuck, so now i just do it. its probably the least favorite of my chores to do. and its truly amazing how all my friends dont answer my calls come chain up season. how do they know.

and those stupid chains weigh more every year...like me.

 

[LouNY]

ive been putting chains on my beast of a tractor tire for 9 winters now. hate it every year.

one year i left them off out of spite, and ended up getting stuck, so now i just do it. its probably the least favorite of my chores to do. and its truly amazing how all my friends dont answer my calls come chain up season. how do they know.

and those stupid chains weigh more every year...like me.

I started putting chains on tractors or helping to over 60 years ago, did take a break for a few years in the 70's,
we used to use the big heavy double ring mud chains in the winter as they worked the best back then for getting thru the snow and the thawed ground under it pulling a manure spreader every day, they were heavy and clumsy to put on and rough riding on hard frozen ground.

Most years now I get them on before they are needed, but screwed up this year the first storm that I needed them for was one heck of a storm.
I only chained up one tractor as the forecaster talked about the approaching storm that went from 1-3 to3-6 then 6-12 then I put one set on and called it good.
The next day they started talking 20-30 inches and we got 38+ then my chained up tractor went down with a water pump.
So I ended up having to shovel that tract mostly clear then pull it out with the truck chain it up standing on 6 inches of packed snow to finish clean up and pushing snow back.

I can sure agree with the chains weighing more each year... just like I do.

But both tractors are all chained up for the winter now and ready to go even though a few days after the snow storm we got oer 50 and a couple inches of rain so most of the ground is bare now.

 

[toolslinger]

Completely failed to chain up on time... Did the first storm (10") without as I was pressed for time... (tires are filled with CaCl, and then there's the 1000# weight on the back that kinda helps)
Fortunately, the brand new R1 rears did a great job. Next time I'm out there in a couple weeks, those big double rings are going on. Will be interesting to see how they fit over tires that haven't been worn bald from 40 years of casual torture. May have to try the rope trick...
Next will be getting chains for the "new" MF135 that has a plow rig for the front. Dunno if I'll get double rings, or something else. Last time anyone bought chains out there, it was the 1970, and I wasn't around quite yet...

 

[LouNY]

I would never recommend the double ring chains to anyone unless they were going to be pulling hard in muddy fields.
The Euro style studded chains will out perform any other style of chains except for deep mud plus they will provide a very good ride
while providing excellent traction.
My IH574 rides on bald non-filled tires with no bolt on weight and she has as much or more traction on snow pack, ice or frozen ground
as she would pavement in the summer.

 

[dnw64]

After some trouble this last storm I decided I may as well capitalize on the money I had already spent on studded Euro-style chains and the spacers required to give the needed clearance.

Used the supplied rope and instructions. Granted, these are relatively small tires (12.4-16) but it went very slick. Took me a total of 45 minutes from walking out the door to having them locked in. And that included figuring out how to use the weird chain connectors that remind me of a trick game where you have to figure out how to put a square peg in a round hole.

Surprisingly (in spite of claims supporting it) smooth ride. I drove up a moderately steep grade with crusty slush in 2WD with nada slip, then came back down, stopped and BACKED UP, still in 2WD - loaded rears but no additional ballast, front mount snowblower fully lifted. Small amount of spinning, but it did it. Can't wait to use it in "real life".

 

[toolslinger]

As I need to do some work to the 135, it isn't on the schedule for use this winter... I guess that's good now that I looked up the price of the euro style chains in my size... Geesh.
I guess it'll be fine considering I will only need one set for the next few decades... Plus, anything has to be a better ride than the double rings.