MossyDell
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2002
- Messages
- 236
- Location
- southwestern Virginia
- Tractor
- B2601 (2021) B6100E (1988) B2100 (1991) JD970 (1998)
This makes so much sense. Then I read someone remind us that engines are now made so tight and are designed for lightweight oil, so that heavier oil hurts them. That's scary! Then others say it's just for mileage, at the cost of durability. And then I recall how synthetic oil pours like water and wonder again if heavier oil is so bad. But then there's the "90 percent of wear occurs at startup, so use the lightest oil" and I am unsure again.
Whatever is true for car manufacturing, I wonder if we can assume the same for tractors. My B2601 manual still lists the typical range of 30 and 40 weights. And I remember an old man who commercially bush hogged with his little 24 hp Kubota and ran straight 50 weight. That was in the '80s, and it surely was not synthetic oil, which I believe doesn't need to be as heavy to offer protection.
Anyway, thanks mangler for trying to cut through all this.
Whatever is true for car manufacturing, I wonder if we can assume the same for tractors. My B2601 manual still lists the typical range of 30 and 40 weights. And I remember an old man who commercially bush hogged with his little 24 hp Kubota and ran straight 50 weight. That was in the '80s, and it surely was not synthetic oil, which I believe doesn't need to be as heavy to offer protection.
Anyway, thanks mangler for trying to cut through all this.
I 'm sure if you change your oil diligently, never lug your engine, never overheat it, and trade-in the car in at 100k miles you could be fine with 0W20. But why take the chance? I consider oil as one of the very few aspects of car reliability I can actually influence. So I like to do what I can, within reason. Viscosity switch is certainly within that envelope.