SSQA Snow Plow

[chim]

There's nothing I'd do differently. It works very well. There was a leaning curve with regard to the height of the loader arms and the amount of curl/dump for keeping the blade floating and flat on the ground. Most of that was accomplished with adding a pair of magnets with Tyrap whiskers for reference. One is for the level indicator rod and another for loader arm height. Simple matter of getting on a level surface and placing the whiskers.

The rear tires are filled, but I added a 50 gallon drum of concrete this year. I sold the rear blower with the L3200 and don't need a rear blade because I can backdrag with the plow.

The grooved tries do provide extra traction. This is the second tractor I've done. Check post 352 in this thread:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/193438-cutting-groving-siping-r-4-a-66.html

 

[Colonel Monk]

Chim, thanks for the tip on the tie wrap indicators.

I'll second how important it can be to maintain the plow frame at a height and angle that it was designed for. This may not matter much after you have frozen ground to plow, but I found out last year when the ground isn't frozen that angle is important to keep from gouging the lawn and so forth.

Also, how chim located the plow pivots farther back - if you do not have perfectly graded roads the farther the plow is from front wheels the more issues you may have "running out of float" where the ground falls away and plow comes off ground.

I just finished cutting apart my first version of plow frame to both lower the attachment points and move them toward the tractor. Currently mounted to bucket, version 1.0 had the plow's pivot inside the bucket and that was a big mistake. It worked, but for all the reasons I just mentioned I really wasn't able to take advantage of the free pivoting aspect of typical plow. Height and attitude of bucket from ground was way too important.

So, if you're going to make a frame for typical snowplow, put the plow pivots UNDER your frame, and move them as far rearward as possible (need to make sure you can get max plow angle) and you'll thank yourself later, especially if your land isn't all flat.

CM

 

[chim]

In addition to Paul Short, GordonGould and TractorNH have inspired a lot of the underslung builds.

 

[senecak19]

In addition to Paul Short, GordonGould and TractorNH have inspired a lot of the underslung builds.

I have to agree with giving you folks credit! Not only have you posted your build process photos in an organized manner, your answering PM's as I step through my build. Thank you all very much for the support!!! Like everyone else, my build will have some variations, but nothing crazy since I've never used a plow a day in my life.

 

[pyobluebonus]

Nice build! can you please draw me a piping diagram on how the cylinders are plumbed to each other and back to third function valve. Thank you in advance

 

[chim]

Thank you but not much of a diagram to draw. Each single acting cylinder has one fitting. One hose runs from each cylinder to the third function fittings on the loader frame. Here's where they come from on the loader frame. The other ends go to the cylinders.

 

[BackRoad]

Mr. Chim, realize this is an elementary question. Do you have a hose connected directly between the two cylinders for equalization?

I've read mention of an interconnect, I believe related to emergency pressure relief in the event of hitting one side of the plow by accident, to prevent overstress on the hydraulics.

Just wondering if you included it, or feel like it's needed.

The hydraulic cylinders which I'm familiar with have 2 hose connections, so wondering what you are doing with the second port on each cylinder?

 

[chim]

Mr. Chim, realize this is an elementary question. Do you have a hose connected directly between the two cylinders for equalization?

I've read mention of an interconnect, I believe related to emergency pressure relief in the event of hitting one side of the plow by accident, to prevent overstress on the hydraulics.

Just wondering if you included it, or feel like it's needed.

The hydraulic cylinders which I'm familiar with have 2 hose connections, so wondering what you are doing with the second port on each cylinder?

Based on what Paul Short said in a video, I didn't do anything for relief or equalization. He said he's been running with a similar hookup for a long time and no problems.

I did use a restrictor in the one line for the purpose of slowing the swing a bit. Can't recall the orfice size, but a guy at the hardware store led me right to it.

These are single acting cylinders - only one connection per cylinder. For example, when oil is sent to the left cylinder, the left cylinder extends as the oil is pumped into it. The right cylinder gets compressed and via the factory plumbing pushes its oil back into the sump. The single hoses serve as both supply and return, depending upon which button on the joystick is pushed.

 

[pyobluebonus]

one hose goes to 1 cylinder and the other hose goes to the other cylinder and then there is a hose connecting both cylinders together correct?

 

[pyobluebonus]

a picture of the hose connection would be helpful. Please