Tractor Sizing Looking for HP Recommendation

[youne]

Hey all! First time poster here. We are moving to an acreage in just over a month and I'm hoping you can help with a horsepower recommendation.

Primary tasks:
- Mowing (if I can get away with a small enough tractor I would do MMM. If not, I would do a finish mower and get a separate ZTR).
- Snowblower and/or Blade
- Potentially running auger for post hole digging off PTO
- Tilling for breaking hard ground - clay/grass to be able to till it and then plant trees
- Will also include a loader

Total lot size is 5 acres and we would be planting trees around almost the entire perimeter. The ground is hard, dry clay and I want a unit that I can use for the ongoing yard maintenance, but that isn't going to strain if I ask it to break ground. Land is fairly flat, any hills are subtle.

Let me know if you need any more info to help answer, thank you!

D

 

[kenmac]

Doesn't sound like you'll be doing much on 5 acres.
If you aren't breaking hard ground and want a mmm.
just go with the largest tractor with mmm.
Most of these small tractors will accommodate a PHD for planting trees.

Or you could go up to the next size without mmm and purchase a z mower.

You are going to get many opinions here as to what others think you need/want. In the end, only know what you need the tractor to do.

In my case, I started out only needing a 50 hp tractor. I have ended up with a 50 hp and a 105 hp tractor ! LOL

 

[rademamj1]

No mention of your budget, but a subcompact in the 21hp to 26hp range would probably handle all your needs for 5 acres. Looks like mainly mowing, landscaping and tree planting is your dominate tasks. Consider a Kioti CK2610, Kubota BX2380, JD 1025R in that order of preference based on budget. Include the MMM and Loader with the tractor choice. The MMM can be a very capable finish mower. Get Turf tires for the least damage to your lawns, and for best traction during winter snowblowing. The Kioti does offer a powerful front mounted snowblower for the CK2610.

Any Post Hole Digger can be used to plant trees, or at least get a very good start on the tree hole.

Make sure you get the SSQA for your loader bucket, and a set of pallet forks. The SSQA allows you to rapidly swap those loader attachments. A set of pallet forks are both incredibly useful and versatile. They are low cost and highly recommended.

 

[youne]

Thanks, I forgot to mention I'm expecting to have to till essentially virgin ground to prep the area for the tree planting, that's the main horsepower concern I have. I think I want to be bigger than the SCUTs just in case I do need it.

I was thinking the mid 20s HP range would be a lot for me, but have a couple voices in my ear thinking I should be between 40 and 50 so just checking my research.

Thank you!

 

[ning]

Thanks, I forgot to mention I'm expecting to have to till essentially virgin ground to prep the area for the tree planting, that's the main horsepower concern I have. I think I want to be bigger than the SCUTs just in case I do need it.

I was thinking the mid 20s HP range would be a lot for me, but have a couple voices in my ear thinking I should be between 40 and 50 so just checking my research.

Thank you!

I'm not sure why you need to till ground for tree planting?

 

[youne]

Mostly to keep the grass from sucking water away from the trees while they're growing, at least for the first few years.

 

[jeff9366]

I recommend at <26 horsepower tractor to avoid the expense and complexity of Tier IV emission controls.

If you need a front PTO and MMM the Kubota LX 2610 would fill the bill, though it is a little light at 2,000 pounds bare tractor weight. Even with filled rear tires the tractor will bounce around operating a PTO-powered, forward rotating roto-tiller in hard ground. You will need to roto-till in fairly small increments, several times.

Land is fairly flat, any hills are subtle.

If you have ample time, a 2,000 pound bare weight tractor will serve you well on five acres.

If you forego the front PTO the Kubota L2501 is wider and heavier at 2,700 pounds, therefore a more stable machine. A 2,700 pound tractor will operate a roto-tiller 12" wider than a less stable 2,000 pound tractor with the same horsepower.

VIDEO: Kubota B-Series vs Standard L1 Series - YouTube


In any tractor line, 2,700 pounds bare weight is when a $400 FEL Bucket Spade becomes an effective tool. Really good for planting trees.

MORE BUCKET SPADE: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/328798-bucket-spade-today-fel-bucket.html?highlight=


Weight in the tiller is your friend tilling hard ground. Research C-shaped tiller tines vs L-shaped tiller tines. You probably want C-shaped tiller tines for clay.

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

Few here would till ground before planting trees..... but we know neither your location nor what tree(s) you intend to plant. There are millions of grass and weed seeds in the soil waiting to germinate after you till, making sunlight available to the dormant seeds.

Most would shallow/surface till annually after planting trees or control grass with a light applications of Roundup/Glycophosphate in a manual pump-sprayer for the first two years. Or wood chip mulch to within 12" of trunk.

Most wild grass only goes down 3" to 4" and generally is not water greedy. The crucial time for watering young trees is during the first three weeks and during extended dry periods the next two years. Browsing deer are usually the greater threat to juvenile trees after year one.

Make sure you get the SSQA for your loader bucket, and a set of pallet forks. The SSQA allows you to rapidly swap those loader attachments. A set of pallet forks are both incredibly useful and versatile. They are low cost and highly recommended.

== YES == Buy short tine length pallet forks.

 

[big bubba]

looks like you have 2 things going on here, tractor choice & tree planting. in terms of tree planting, sounds like you have an initial plan started. if you're interested in more tree planting feedback, you might post your ideas in the projects forum. lots to consider: how many trees? how will you irrigate once planted? & yes, deer will be the main culprits from browsing & buck rubs. i make small fence enclosures for some of the more vulnerable ones, but not all by any means. spiral trunk wraps help, but of course won't help with young branch browsing, etc.

Tree Guards | Tree Protection | Spiral Tree Protector Wrap - Tree Armor

over the years i've planted over a hundred of nursery stock trees on my place. i like to see people involved in tree planting, & think you'd get good response in the projects forum
it could save you a lot of headache after the fact.
in terms of weed control, the consumer market landscape cloth (lowes, etc) is worthless. get heavy duty landscape cloth through Amazon, etc. contractor grade, etc
good luck, best regards

 

[rademamj1]

Youne: Random Tree planting does not need soil tilling. Unless your planting an orchard or rows of grape vines, in which case you would disk and grade your entire property with laser level for proper slopes and water drainage. For that you would need a professional service and becomes a much more involved project.

But you said simply tree planting...and whether that be fruit, flowering or landscape trees, the best preparation is simply repeated mowing to remove brush and control grasses. A 26hp tractor should easily handle a 48" rotary cutter, and good for cutting and clearing upto 1" thick growth. After that any MMM will keep things under control.

Constant mowing is your best friend at removing unwanted high brush, which maybe competing for tree water resources. After mowing, the remaining normal field grasses will not compete for water to your trees. And if your still seriously concerned about grass, just put mulch around the base of each newly planted tree to totally eliminate grasses.

I myself don't like mulch, as it acts as a sponge and absorbs and holds water which would go to the tree and surrounding grasses. It also can be a source for fungus and molds at the base of each tree. But mulch does eliminate grass. Draw up a plan for your property, placing where each tree and type of tree is to be placed.

You were originally concerned about tractor HP and most of the advice is right at the 26hp. With your dominate clay soil, which holds water for long period of time, you don't want a heavy larger hp tractor creating permanent ruts, and your constantly trying to repair ruts or retrieving stuck tractors.

 

[youne]

Thanks all for the feedback. Re the tree planting, I'm looking at building a shelter belt around the perimeter so will be planting at least two rows of trees, likely numbering in the few hundreds when all said and done. Sounds like I have my HP accurate but need to consider the weight piece more. Thanks all!!

D

 

[jeff9366]

Sounds like I have my HP accurate but need to consider the weight piece more.

Though it varies by tractor brand and model, at about 3,700 pounds bare tractor weight, some tractors will pass under a standard 84" high garage header with the ROPS folded, some will not. At about 4,000 pounds bare tractor weight the ROPS is too tall to pass under a standard 84" high garage header even with the ROPS folded.

You must check folded ROPS height model by model commencing at 3,700 pounds if you plan to garage store your tractor.


MORE ON TRACTOR WEIGHT: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...weight-one-criterion-tractor.html#post5521919

 

[dodge man]

I own a John Deere 2025r. It is considered a compact although a small one. With loaded tires (fluid in the rear tires for ballast) a end loader and maybe another implement it weighs about 3000 lbs. I would look at this size in John Deere, Kubota or any other brand that is in your area. Like already mentioned if you stay at 25 hp or less there is less emissions equipment. If you want more hp don稚 be afraid of something a little bigger.

For a lot of trees you might rent something to dig the holes. The make rear augers for tractors but depending on the soil and your skill that can go great or not so good.

Mid mount mowers? A great subject to start an argument. Some people say skip it and get a zero turn. People like me will tell you how much we like them. With my JD I have a 60 auto connect deck that goes on and off easy. I like it. I have looked at zero turns and something I would like would probably be 5k used. If you have the budget and the space to store it a zero turn is great.

For budget? I spent $21k for my JD 2025r, 60 mid mount mower, end loader, pallet forks, and rear tires filled with rim guard. That was 2 years ago and was the out the door price. I would say inventory is down and prices are up since I bought mine 2 years ago.

Good luck in the search

 

[rademamj1]

If you need a tractor for the summer, it maybe wise to do your research and make your decesion on a tractor model quickly. Not trying to rush you.

Right now, dealer tractor inventories are extremely low for almost all brands. It's going to be a difficult year getting tractors. Typically, most spring tractor orders start going to dealers around mid March and April. My local dealer normally has 18 tractors on his lot, yesterday he had only 3 new tractors. All were over 60hp. He had no used tractors in his inventory.

Get your order in early this year.

 

[youne]

Hi Jeff, thanks for the weight info. On the LX datasheet, they list the the LX 2610 as 1830, and the FEL at 562. I assume that is Sans bucket, so add maybe another 3-400 there (I can't find spec specifically online.) That would put me at about 2700lbs without any additional ballast or the MMM. If I were to till with the loader and bucket on and end up at 2700-2800lbs is that enough weight to keep the tiller from kicking as long as I'm going the appropriate speed for how hard/tough it is?

 

[big bubba]

well Jeff9366 is the expert on cut & sub models. i can't offer any advice on that subject. but from my own experience, if you intend on working/living on the land for some time, tasks and ambitions will grow & always be there for you. from your descriptions, i feel you'll struggle with a 25hp tractor. i highly recommend looking at a heavier & more powerful machine from the start. i can vouch for expensive upgrades to find the right match that could have been avoided if well thought out. test drives on the tractor lot are a poor indication of field use.

low 40's hp hst in L series would be my candidate for your small estate

just a thought, best of luck in your decision. your tree project is ambitious. let the forum know how that develops best regards

 

[youne]

There's used L3901 a couple hours away thats 2 or 3 years old with some light use. I am wondering if that's the best to take the chance on. It's a good deal and feel like I could easily resell at the same price if I had to...otherwise it's a jump to the L4701.

 

[big bubba]

actually L3901 came to mind when i 1st responded, but rounded to 40hp ish it might be wise just to step back & continue the conversation w/yourself & forum before springing for a compulsive purchase... & what your future projects might involve, btw we like to spend your money on the forum.

 

[crazyal]

I'm going to offer a different opinion. I would look at something larger (like an L series Kubota). It doesn't sound like you have a lot of tight areas to work around. I would look at the 35hp to 40hp range. If a BX was 1/3 the price of a L that would be different but the jump in price (maybe it's different in Canada) isn't that much yet if you buy a 25hp tractor and find it's not up to what you need you're out $5k or most likely more if you trade it in to move up. Very few people wish they bought something smaller.

 

[youne]

Thanks Bubba and Al, you are echoing some ideas that were put into my head which prompted this post! Now that I am considering a higher horsepower I think I need to check the brands over again. After all the research in the smaller sizes I had ended on Kubota, but this would open up something like the 1840M series on Massey, and maybe 3038etc on JD. I'm thinking JD will price me out, but I grew up with some Massey gear so my heart wants it to win out if it can!

Any thoughts around the 40HP space between Kubota/Massey/Deere? (ie. Any major concerns to note?) There's also a dealer that does Kioto, Mahindra, LS, but they're a bit further away from where we are moving so didn't give them a solid look.


PS I don't need help spending money but I appreciate it all the same...Ha!

 

[kenmac]

There's used L3901 a couple hours away thats 2 or 3 years old with some light use. I am wondering if that's the best to take the chance on. It's a good deal and feel like I could easily resell at the same price if I had to...otherwise it's a jump to the L4701.

If you don't want an mmm. I would give this tractor serious consideration.
You only have 5 acres and aren't doing very much.

When I bought my 50 acre farm, all I had for about a year was an old yanmar 35 hp tractor.
Believe it or not, I got a ton of work done with that tractor before Up grading