Power Trac 425/1430 feel/size compared to SCUT/CUT

[cqaigy2]

Cool looking machine.

 

[coolconnection]

Well I haven’t commented on this forum for quite some time. Let me tell you I have had many different tractors and mowers over the years. I had a zero turn for about 6 years until I moved to an area that has some nice hills and it about flipped on me one day so I got rid of that one. Bought a Steiner and had it for about 5 years but got stolen from me. I then bought a power Trac 425. Nice nimble little machine I had for over 10 years. Many problems with the main pump and seriously expensive to have fixed. Labor is cheap because you have to do it yourself. Last time it broke I had it repaired and then sold it because I didn’t like fixing it anymore. Warranty is pretty sad on them. The new power Trac 425 got redesigned because that pump wasn’t available anymore, Bondioli quit making it. Too many problems I guess. I also hear if you want a PT 1430 you better buy it soon because that diesel doesn’t pass new emissions so they are going to be putting a gasser in that engine bay in the near future unless I got that info wrong. I am surprised the gentleman mentioned he didn’t like the mower deck on his Deere 1025. My new Massey mows by far better than the Steiner did and way better than my old power Trac. I did say I have hills now so I put wheel spacers on my new tractor and filled the rear tires. It is now very solid on my hills with a nice low center of gravity. The power Trac is a jack of all trades and master of none. Test as many tractors as you can and take good notes. There is no one size fits all when in come to tractor purchases. What might be right for you might not be right for the next guy. Just so you all know I am not bashing power Trac, I really liked that little machine. I think back on it now it was because of its uniqueness and just the right amount of American inginuity.

 

[airbiscuit]

I think Power Tracs are cool. I would like to own one. They are unique and a result of American Ingenuity. My issue with them is that they are better than an MTD, but not as good as a Kubota. I would like to see them do a joint venture with a zero turn company like Ferris or Hustler. It would give them a dealer network and potential for a better and more robust design. I get that it could have an impact on price, but I think it would improve function and reliability. It would also help expand product line of a zero turn brand.

They seem to be their own Struck Mini Dozer type of category. Popular Mechanics subscribers would be their target audience.

Again, I'm not hating on them, but they aren't in the same class as Kubota et. al.

 

[johara1]

Thanks for all that info. Ive put in my info power trac to have them send some paperwork to me. Hopefully it will include more details, specs, etc.

I actually won't be mowing on any slopes at all. My mowing will mainly consist at my home property where the terrain is flat, but often soggy and there's lots of obstacles to mow around on my approx 1 acre lawn. So nimbleness and maneuverability are the keys there. I'm not necessarily ruling out the 425. I could maybe get used to the gas motor, use it exclusively on my yard, and/or swap it out with a diesel if I don't like it.

I'm afraid the 1430 may be a bit too large for my yard, but looks about perfect for everything else. I do need to see some in the flesh to get a feel for them though. I'm in south east NC but drive to western NC a lot. If anybody happens to be the vicinity and they'd be willing to let me check out their machines let me know. Otherwise I'll try to get out to Tazewell during one of my next trips.

I know from experience the mower deck on a 425 will tear up a wet yard, the rear wheels on the deck dig in. I'm sure you don't want a 2500 lb 430 tractor plus the weight of the deck in a wet yard..... jim

 

[MossRoad]

....Test as many tractors as you can and take good notes. There is no one size fits all when in come to tractor purchases. What might be right for you might not be right for the next guy. ...

That's the best advice anyone can give. So many people have so many different tasks/properties/unique situations/budgets, etc... that you have to really do your research before purchase. It's even more important if you're trying to limit yourself to just one machine.

The OP says at his 1 acre home he has a flat lawn that stays damp quite often and that 90% of duties at home would be mowing it. The other 10% would be mowing small urban lawns at rental properties, and some light loader work.

The OP says he's building mountain pads for cabins and shows a video of the location. He also says he has a mini-ex. He says 90% of the work will be loader work, moving gravel and other loose material.

Steepness of the OP's hills at remote properties as viewed from the video eliminates the PT425 in my opinion. Just my opinion, of course, but my own experience on my own steep hills shows the OP has more of them than I do. I run on less-steep slopes all day long with my loader and brush cutter, and I make runs up and down the steep hills, a rise of 60', pulling logs or full buckets of black dirt up the hill. I don't think I could run up and down the steep hills all day long on the 425.

Loader work:
That eliminates the steiner/ventrac type machines instantly. They are not loaders. Seriously. Don't consider them for that type of loader work that you're planning to do at your mountain properties.

CUT/SCUT has good loader lift abilities. Does OP need to lift over the side of a pickup truck? If so, that eliminates the PT425 again. CUT/SCUT will lift higher. So that bumps you up to the PT1430 series or higher.

PT design will outperform CUT/SCUT design in loader work when it comes to moving material from point A to point B. They are faster, more nimble, more stabile, etc... I base this on my experience with my old IH2500b tractor loader VS my PT425. Both are designed as loaders. The little articulated machine ran circles around the much larger machine. Difference is amazing in speed.

Mowing:
Steiner/ventrac design is superior to CUT/SCUT and way superior to PT.
However.... OP mentioned small urban lawns.
Well, crud. How small? Any gates to pass through? Can you put a Steiner/Ventrac with duals onto those small urban lawns? Same question for CUT/SCUT/PT1430 series? A PT425 is only 42" wide. You can pick up a 48" or 60" deck from the side with the PT forks and carry it through a 48" gate.

But, I've eliminated the PT425 from the list due to the mountainous loader work previously mentioned....

So those are just some of the things the OP is gonna have to consider.

Then there's this monkey wrench, of course.

Put larger displacement wheel motors onto a PT425. :laughing:

Some have done that. It makes for a lower top speed but more hill climbing ability. A mountain goat, from what I've read. This is not a bad solution if you can find a used PT425, have a welder, and are mechanically competent.

Anyhow, OP has some serious PRO/CON listing to do.

I'd say if he's stuck with one machine, it's down to a CUT/SCUT with wheel spacers and weight or a PT due to the amount of loader work in it's future.

If he wants to purchase multiple machines, then I'd suggest a lawn tractor for the flat lawns, and a tracked skid steer for the mountain, or a PT1845/50.

 

[tommott77]

That's the best advice anyone can give. So many people have so many different tasks/properties/unique situations/budgets, etc... that you have to really do your research before purchase. It's even more important if you're trying to limit yourself to just one machine.

The OP says at his 1 acre home he has a flat lawn that stays damp quite often and that 90% of duties at home would be mowing it. The other 10% would be mowing small urban lawns at rental properties, and some light loader work.

The OP says he's building mountain pads for cabins and shows a video of the location. He also says he has a mini-ex. He says 90% of the work will be loader work, moving gravel and other loose material.

Steepness of the OP's hills at remote properties as viewed from the video eliminates the PT425 in my opinion. Just my opinion, of course, but my own experience on my own steep hills shows the OP has more of them than I do. I run on less-steep slopes all day long with my loader and brush cutter, and I make runs up and down the steep hills, a rise of 60', pulling logs or full buckets of black dirt up the hill. I don't think I could run up and down the steep hills all day long on the 425.

Loader work:
That eliminates the steiner/ventrac type machines instantly. They are not loaders. Seriously. Don't consider them for that type of loader work that you're planning to do at your mountain properties.

CUT/SCUT has good loader lift abilities. Does OP need to lift over the side of a pickup truck? If so, that eliminates the PT425 again. CUT/SCUT will lift higher. So that bumps you up to the PT1430 series or higher.

PT design will outperform CUT/SCUT design in loader work when it comes to moving material from point A to point B. They are faster, more nimble, more stabile, etc... I base this on my experience with my old IH2500b tractor loader VS my PT425. Both are designed as loaders. The little articulated machine ran circles around the much larger machine. Difference is amazing in speed.

Mowing:
Steiner/ventrac design is superior to CUT/SCUT and way superior to PT.
However.... OP mentioned small urban lawns.
Well, crud. How small? Any gates to pass through? Can you put a Steiner/Ventrac with duals onto those small urban lawns? Same question for CUT/SCUT/PT1430 series? A PT425 is only 42" wide. You can pick up a 48" or 60" deck from the side with the PT forks and carry it through a 48" gate.

But, I've eliminated the PT425 from the list due to the mountainous loader work previously mentioned....

So those are just some of the things the OP is gonna have to consider.

Then there's this monkey wrench, of course.

Put larger displacement wheel motors onto a PT425. :laughing:

Some have done that. It makes for a lower top speed but more hill climbing ability. A mountain goat, from what I've read. This is not a bad solution if you can find a used PT425, have a welder, and are mechanically competent.

Anyhow, OP has some serious PRO/CON listing to do.

I'd say if he's stuck with one machine, it's down to a CUT/SCUT with wheel spacers and weight or a PT due to the amount of loader work in it's future.

If he wants to purchase multiple machines, then I'd suggest a lawn tractor for the flat lawns, and a tracked skid steer for the mountain, or a PT1845/50.

Thank you for that. Yeah, doing bucket work (not mowing) up and down the steel/hilly roads all day is exactly the type of work it would be doing in the mountains so that honest assessment on the 425 was exactly what I needed to hear. Again I'm not seeing much in terms of specs but one of the questions I had were if all the all PT models were direct drive with no low/high gear? Would a one speed 1430 be able to run full buckets up and down steep roads all day for example?

I do believe that ventracs and maybe Steiners have two speed transmissions. I'll have try to get some seat time in those machines as well. I know that the Ventrac has a loader, want to say that the newest model steiners don't though.

As far as the loader work I really don't need to lift over a truck bed. What I need is the ability to load/unload material/equipment out of the back of a truck and off a trailer constantly. Forks are an absolute must and get used a lot. So outright height is not much of a concern but I need something more than the power buckets that ventrac/Steiner push over the loaders.

I'd love to find one machine to do it all. The mountain work is hard on the machine but will be only needed infrequently in the near future. The 3025 does everything I ask out of it up there but will soon be sitting around except for a couple days out of a couple weeks of the year.

 

[m5040]

Just another thought I would like to mention. The PT's have a different balance then CUT or Steiner due to the rear engine. When a Steiner Ventrac lifts the mower, the weight of the engine, transaxle and the mower is all on the front axle, similarly with a CUT. Those configurations all NEED ballast on the rear (to work with anything substantial in the front), so the advertised weight is deceiving. The 1430 may weight more to start with, but it doesn't need any ballast. The higher weight is spread out more evenly over all 4 tires.
The quality of the grass cut is with the design of the mower. I bought a different brand of mower to use on my 1430 for example. If you really wanted to, you could find a well designed golf course quality deck and just drive it hydraulically.

 

[MossRoad]

Thank you for that. Yeah, doing bucket work (not mowing) up and down the steel/hilly roads all day is exactly the type of work it壇 be doing in the moutains so that honest on the 425 assessment was exactly what I needed to hear. Again I知 not seeing much in times of specs but one of the questions I had were if all the all PT models were direct drive with no low/high gear? Would a one speed 1430 be able to run full buckets up and down steep roads all day for example?

I do believe that ventracs and maybe Steiners have two speed transmissions. I値l have try to get some seat time in those machines as well. I know that the Ventrac has a loader, want to say that the newest model steiners don稚 though.

As far as the loader work I really don稚 need to lift over a truck bed. What I need is the ability to load/unload material/equipment out of the back of a track and off a trailer constantly. Forks are an absolute must and get used a lot. So outright height is not much of a concern but I need something more than the power buckets that ventrac/Steiner push over the loaders.

I壇 love to find one machine to do it all. The mountain work is hard on the machine but will be only needed infrequently in the near future. The 3025 does everything I ask out of it up there but will soon be sitting around except for a couple days out of a couple weeks of the year.

The way PowerTracs driveline is laid out:

The engine drives a variable volume pump.
That pump provides fluid to 4 wheel motors.
There are no driveshafts, differentials, range selectors, etc...
There's just one range.
So that's your compromise: speed VS power and the tasks you're trying to accomplish. That's why conventional tractors are better at pulling. They can be geared several ways due to the range selector.

For example, my 2001 model year PT425 has a speed range of 0-8mph. Push lightly on the treadle pedal and you get more power, but less speed. Push hard on the treadle and you get more speed but less power. Make sense?

I believe the newer PT425s have larger wheel motors and variable volume pumps. You still get the top speed of 8mph, but more powerful at lower speeds. You'd have to ask Terry at PowerTrac how that works.

The larger PTs have larger displacement wheel motors, pumps, different sized tires, etc... so they're all different. Again, you'd have to ask either Terry or one of the TBN members that has such a machine how they perform on hills with loads.

 

[MossRoad]

We used to have a pickup truck. I'd remove the tailgate and I'd just drive the PT425 backwards right up into the bed of the truck, strap it in, and go to wherever I was going. I could leave a mower deck or the large bucket with the small bucket and forks nested inside attached and they'd rest on the rear bumper. That was great. Then we had more children and we got a 3/4 ton van and a car hauler trailer. The car hauler has a solid metal deck. This combination works great, as the PT425 can load or unload the car hauler trailer from the sides or drive right up the ramps and scoop up rocks, mulch, etc... right off the bed. We sold the van and bought a Suburban, but the combination is the same. I can haul the PT425, 60" mower, 48" brush hog, two buckets, forks, and more all on one trailer to a job and have it all available. The quick attach on the PT is outstanding. I can change non-powered implements in less than 15 seconds without getting off the machine. Powered implements you have to get out of the seat and connect hydraulic hoses, so that ads another 30 seconds or so to the task.

 

[ponytug]

Thank you for that. Yeah, doing bucket work (not mowing) up and down the steel/hilly roads all day is exactly the type of work it would be doing in the mountains so that honest assessment on the 425 was exactly what I needed to hear. Again I'm not seeing much in terms of specs but one of the questions I had were if all the all PT models were direct drive with no low/high gear? Would a one speed 1430 be able to run full buckets up and down steep roads all day for example?

I do believe that ventracs and maybe Steiners have two speed transmissions. I'll have try to get some seat time in those machines as well. I know that the Ventrac has a loader, want to say that the newest model steiners don't though.

As far as the loader work I really don't need to lift over a truck bed. What I need is the ability to load/unload material/equipment out of the back of a truck and off a trailer constantly. Forks are an absolute must and get used a lot. So outright height is not much of a concern but I need something more than the power buckets that ventrac/Steiner push over the loaders.

I'd love to find one machine to do it all. The mountain work is hard on the machine but will be only needed infrequently in the near future. The 3025 does everything I ask out of it up there but will soon be sitting around except for a couple days out of a couple weeks of the year.

At the end of the day, hauling material up a hill is limited by horse power. More HP, more material getting up the hill, all other things being equal.

I would go test drive the tractors.

I use my PT daily, and the PT Swiss Army knife solution matches my varying needs these days. I have used a number of different tractors over the years, some of which were amazing (the old Ford 4N, and the Deutz-Fahrs come to mind), but for my property these days, I love my PT. I routinely switch from one to another and back in seconds, e.g. using the forks to haul posts to the large bucket to haul soil and hay, to putting on job specific tools. Having the attachments in front with a working quick attach is such a game changer. I never miss having 3 point attachments behind me, having to climb down to kick bars into pins, and having to drive over brush before mowing. I was once almost swept off a small tractor into a running brush mower by a low branch. Talk about putting the fear of death put into you!

But...you have different requirements. Have fun test driving machines!

All the best,

Peter

 

[johara1]

I think I would have two machines first a 425 for the bucket andforks and any other attachment you may need and a zero turn to cut the grass.... The most stupid thing I hear is to load a pick up truck ... only to shovel it off by hand... BTW when you talk about a Ventrac and the power bucket it spread tri axles load of stone and crushed brick and mulch and sure dug a lot of dirt with one. yes it doesn't lift very high but high enough to get the job done. Then put the mower and cut the grass and strip it at the same time.... Difference in decks 3/4 bolts holds the high lift blades on the Ventrac and a 5" roller with pillow blocks at each end. 3/8 bolts hold the flimsy blades on the powertrac mower with two plastic wheels in the back and no bearings ... Flat yard you can't beat a zero turn, they go up and down hills good too. Time wise nothing will touch them and a quality cut..... jim

 

[SpringHollow]

I bought the PT1850 just because my ground is both very wet and steep. MUCH better than any SCUT or CUT that I have had for those conditions. The ground impact is less than my ATV.

 

[tommott77]

Hey all, sorry I have an update albeit a late one.

I was able to get to Tazewell a couple weeks back. It was 20 degrees, snowing, and icy out so only got a quick test drive on a 425. The 1430 was too large for really what would be needed at my home property. The 425 is about the perfect size for that work though and in the last couple weeks I think I have come to conclusion that I want to hold onto the 3025 up at the mountains for good. It probably won't see too many hours but it'll always get some use going up and down the mountain at the very least.

So I am considering purchasing a 425 for the work at home to replace my 1025. I'm still considering Ventrac/Steiner, though have not gotten seat time on one yet. I'm also considering a garden tractor with an aftermarket FEL as well. Mowing will be 85% of its duties. I didn't get a chance to run the PT425 with a mower during my short trip up there would like to get some impressions on mowing capabilities/performance.

Couple more questions on the 425. I have a lot of trees/obstacles to mow around at home. I see that the website has the 425 listed with an inside turning radius of 37" and an outside turning radius of 95". My John Deere 1025, which it would be replacing, has a published turning radius of 87", but when I measure it myself the the rear tires have a total turning circle of about 54". I'm not sure how turning radii are exactly measured but was wondering what people see in terms of real world experience? I know in practice that a MMM on a 1025 should have a smaller uncut circle than the front mount mower on the PT425. Will the PT425 be able to cut around a tree or will you have take a couple runs around it?

Also curious how the loader mount mower works in practice as well. Obviously it should be able to reach under some areas you could not get to with a MMM, but can it be manipulated with the lift, curl, dump to get down into a ditch line for example?

I'm not much of a leaf raker and was wondering how the mower does with mulching? I somewhat doubt it but is there a mulch kit available for the mower? If not are the blades cross-referenced with something else that can be swapped with gator, mulch blades?

Lastly I would need to some heavy duty mowing from time to time. How does the brush cutter do and what size material will it be able to handle? I have tiny 42" flail mower that I run on my 1025, which I actually like a lot. I believe I've read that flail mower was once available on 425 but am not seeing it listed currently on the price sheet. Would it be at all feasible to add to a hydraulic motor to my 42" flail mower and run that on the 425?

 

[SpringHollow]

FYI, If you can weld and do plumbing, you could convert your flail mower to run on the 425.

Ken

 

[m5040]

I have the 180 which uses a smaller deck then the 425. I think it does great for brush cutting. To me it is the most maneuverable tractor I ever operated. I was down at Tazewell 2 weeks back and bought a second articulated blade rotary cutter. Now I have a beater for brush and one with sharp blades to cut grass. It does an all right job when the blades are sharp.
One difference on an articulated tractor is that the mower moves right and left as you move the steering wheel and the tractor bends in the center, so you can cut right up to a object as close as you dare and make instantaneous adjustments just by a slight movement in the steering wheel.
The way a CUT takes a turn is the front wheels pull you sideways, if in 4x4 and then they tear up the grass, so you loose the 4wd advantage to keep the grass in better condition, especially if week after week you drive in the same exact pattern. The articulated vehicle acts totally different with the wheels always pointed straight ahead.
You have a tough choice, too bad you didn't get more face time in on the 425.

 

[BigDaddyEureka]

@tommott77 - On the turning circle with the PT-425, it's VERY tight. Much tighter than my friend's 2-series Deere for sure. More importantly for my purposes, when you've got it "on the stops" it doesn't tear the turf, even with the bar tires on mine. Very pleased with the turning radius so far!

 

[tommott77]

FYI, If you can weld and do plumbing, you could convert your flail mower to run on the 425.

Ken

I’ve seen the attachment plates that they have. Putting and welding that together with the 3pt setup on the flail would be easy enough. Not sure what’s involved with finding, sizing, and fitting a hydraulic drive motor th

 

[MossRoad]

Hey all, sorry I have an update albeit a late one.

Hey all, sorry I have an update albeit a late one.



NO APOLOGIES NEEDED

I'LL POST IN ALL CAPS NOT TO YELL AT YOU, BUT SO I CAN ANSWER AS MANY QUESTIONS AS POSSIBLE, SO PARDON MY CAPS.



I was able to get to Tazewell a couple weeks back. It was 20 degrees, snowing, and icy out so only got a quick test drive on a 425. The 1430 was too large for really what would be needed at my home property. The 425 is about the perfect size for that work though and in the last couple weeks I think I have come to conclusion that I want to hold onto the 3025 up at the mountains for good. It probably won't see too many hours but it'll always get some use going up and down the mountain at the very least.



So I am considering purchasing a 425 for the work at home to replace my 1025. I'm still considering Ventrac/Steiner, though have not gotten seat time on one yet.



VENTRACS/STEINER ARE BETTER LAWN MOWERS THAN PT. NICER CUT QUALITY.



I'm also considering a garden tractor with an aftermarket FEL as well.



WHY? JUST CURIOUS. IS THAT IN ADDITION TO A PT OR STEINER/VENTRAC, OR INSTEAD OF A PT OR STEINER/VENTRAC?



Mowing will be 85% of its duties.



ARE YOU GOING TO MOW WITH THE FEL ON THE GARDEN TRACTOR, OR IS IT EASILY REMOVABLE.



I didn't get a chance to run the PT425 with a mower during my short trip up there would like to get some impressions on mowing capabilities/performance.



I WILL TRY MY UNBIASED BEST (SNORTS LOUDLY).



Couple more questions on the 425. I have a lot of trees/obstacles to mow around at home. I see that the website has the 425 listed with an inside turning radius of 37" and an outside turning radius of 95". My John Deere 1025, which it would be replacing, has a published turning radius of 87", but when I measure it myself the the rear tires have a total turning circle of about 54". I'm not sure how turning radii are exactly measured but was wondering what people see in terms of real world experience?



ON A PT, THE REAR WHEELS FOLLOW THE FRONT WHEELS IN THE SAME TRACK. IN TIGHT TURNS, BOTH THE FRONT AND REAR HAVE THE EXACT SAME INSIDE AND OUTSIDE TURNING RADII. IT WILL MAKE A PERFECT CIRCLE ABOUT 6' IN DIAMETER.



I know in practice that a MMM on a 1025 should have a smaller uncut circle than the front mount mower on the PT425. Will the PT425 be able to cut around a tree or will you have take a couple runs around it?



WITH A 6' CIRLCE FOR THE TRACTOR AND ABOUT 18" LESS WITH A 6' MOWER, YOU'LL LEAVE A 4'6" CIRCLE OF UNCUT GRASS (APPROXIMATELY).



SO A MIDMOUNT MOWER WILL PROBABLY CUT CLOSER TO A TREE TRUNK IN A CIRCLE. BUT WITH EITHER, MIDMOUNT OR FRONT MOUNT, YOU'D STILL HAVE TO MAKE PASSES NEXT TO THE TRUNK. SO THE POINT IS MOOT.



I PUT 5' MULCH CIRCLES AROUND MY FRUIT TREES IN THE LAWN, AND THAT SOLVES THAT.



ONE PLACE THE PT DESIGN DOES BETTER THAN A MID MOUNT IS THAT YOU CAN MOW UNDER THINGS BY ABOUT 3'. SO IF YOU HAVE LOW HANGING BRANCHES, YOU CAN REACH IN THER WITH THE FRONT MOUNTED PT MOWER.



ANOTHER PLACE THE PT DESING DOES BETTER IS CUTTING INTO AN INSIDE CORNER. I HAVE SEVERAL. I CAN DRIVE INTO THE CORNER FROM TWO DIRECTIONS AND ONLY LEAVE ABOUT A 12" ARC UNCUT IN THE CORNER. EASY TO GET WITH A WEED EATER. A MID MOUNT CAN'T GET THAT CLOSE.



Also curious how the loader mount mower works in practice as well. Obviously it should be able to reach under some areas you could not get to with a MMM, but can it be manipulated with the lift, curl, dump to get down into a ditch line for example?



YES, YOU CAN DROP IT DOWN A BIT LOWER INTO A DITCH FROM THE SIDE OF THE DITCH. OR YOU CAN PUT THE FEL IN LOCK AND HANG THE MOWER OUT OVER A DITCH A COUPLE FEET. HOWEVER, CAUTION THAT THE DITCH BANK DOESN'T GIVE WAY. YOU CAN ALSO MOW UP THE SIDE OF A DITCH OR STEEP EMBANKMENT. I HAVE A CUT THROUGH A HILL FROM THE HIGHWAY INTO MY REMOTE PROPERTY. THE SIDES OF THE CUT ARE 45 DEGREES AND ABOUT 6' UP THE BANK. I CAN PUSH THE MOWER DECK UP THOSE SIDES AND MOW THEM WITH EASE. THE PT425 WON'T CLIMB THAT SLOPE, BUT THE MOWER AND HALF THE PT WILL. IT'S PRETTY NICE FOR THINGS LIKE THAT.



I'm not much of a leaf raker and was wondering how the mower does with mulching? I somewhat doubt it but is there a mulch kit available for the mower? If not are the blades cross-referenced with something else that can be swapped with gator, mulch blades?



SINCE THE BACK OF THE MOWER IS OPEN, IT DOES NOT MULCH. NO MULCHING KIT AVAILABLE. WITH THAT SAID, THERE'S NO BAGGER, EITHER. SO I JUST KEEP THE BLADES SHARP (I HAVE TWO PAIRS OF BLADES FOR QUICK SWAP OUT) AND DON'T LET THE GRASS GET TOO HIGH. THEY HAVE A SMALL BOLT HOLE, SO UNLESS YOU BUY THEM FROM PT, YOU'LL HAVE TO SEARCH FOR THEM ON THE INTERNET. I LIKE THE CUT QUALITY FROM MY PT, BUT THE STEINER/VENTRAC WILL DO BETTER.



ONE THING YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT THE PT MOWER DECK FOR A 425. IT HAS CASTERS ON THE FRONT, BUT THE BACK WHEELS ARE HARD PLASTIC. THEY DO FINE IN SLIGHT TURNS, BUT IF YOU TURN REALLY SHARP, THEY CAN DIG IN AND SLIDE. LIKEWISE, IF YOU'RE STOPPED AND CRANK THE STEERING WHEEL, YOU CAN SWING THE MOWER SIDE-TO-SIDE SEVERAL FEET. THE REAR WHEELS CAN DIG IN AND SCRAPE SIDEWAYS. THIS HAPPENS IN WET SOIL. ON DRY GROUND, IT'S NOT AS NOTICEABLE, BUT JUST BEWARE THAT IT CAN HAPPEN IF YOU TURN TO SHARP WITHOUT MOVING FORWARD OR BACKWARD.



Lastly I would need to some heavy duty mowing from time to time. How does the brush cutter do and what size material will it be able to handle?



THE 42" BRUSH CUTTER IS THE MOST DANGEROUS PIECE OF EQUIPMENT I OWN, HANDS DOWN. ANYTHING THAT YOU CAN PUSH OVER WITH THE DECK WILL BE DESTROYED. I'VE TAKEN DOWN THOUSANDS OF 2" OAKS WITH IT.



I HAVE GONE THROUGH THE THICKEST OF WEEDS, TALL THISTLES, SOLID WALL OF GREEN MATERIAL. 13' 6"+ HIGH THISTLE. HONEST. I STOOD ON THE CANOPY. IT'S 5'6" HIGH. I'M 6' TALL WITH AN 8' REACH. I COULDN'T REACH THE TOPS OF THE THISTLES. I JUST DROVE RIGHT THROUGH IT AND ALL THAT WAS LEFT WAS A CARPET OF GREEN SLIME AND CHIPS. IT IS A THING OF BEAUTY AND TERROR AT THE SAME TIME.



I have tiny 42" flail mower that I run on my 1025, which I actually like a lot. I believe I've read that flail mower was once available on 425 but am not seeing it listed currently on the price sheet. Would it be at all feasible to add to a hydraulic motor to my 42" flail mower and run that on the 425?



YOU'D HAVE TO FIND THE HP THAT THE FLAIL MOWER REQUIRES. THE PT425 PUTS OUT 8 GALLONS PER MINUTE AT 2500PSI. THAT = 11.6HP.



THEN YOU'D HAVE TO FIGURE THE RPM REQUIRED BY THE FLAIL MOWER. I'M GUESSING 540RPM, LIKE A STANDARD TRACTOR.



THEN YOU'D HAVE TO GET SOME HYDRAULIC CALCULATORS AND FIGURE WHAT DISPLACEMENT HYDRAULIC MOTOR WILL GIVE YOU 540RPM AT 8GPM, AND MAKE SURE IT CAN HANDLE 2500PSI.



I BELIEVE A 3.42 CUBIC INCH DISPLACEMENT MOTOR WILL GIVE 540RPM AT 8GPM.

Surplus Center



ANYHOW, THAT'S A LONG WINDED POST. HAHAHAHA.

HOPE THAT HELPS.

HAVE A GOOD EVENING.

M.R.

 

[spechols]

This is great information - thank you

 

[johara1]

This started as a person shopping for what brand of tractor to purchase. So just because you are satisfied with a 2' high loader doesn't mean anyone else will be. You keep bringing up the 425 which cost $13,200 and comparing it to a Ventrac that cost $22,600 and you still can't match it. You should compare your machine to the 1430 which is still cheaper($18,800) then the ventrac and is a much higher category of performance. When I look at the Ventrac site, they tell me that it has better visibility so we now know there are mistruths in their advertising. On the visibility topic, tell me why they still put the engine in the front and then have to put steel weights on the back? The PT out of the box comes balance and ready to perform to spec. and no hood to try and look over to see what your implement is doing. With a front engine it would be better getting a CUT like a Kubota and not buy a Ventrac that has a Kubota engine and still have your implement driven by a fan belt.
And really if you thing about it, your finish mower is $5,500 and the rough cut mower is $5,000. So for those 2 implements you have $10,500 added to the price. The 1430's mower only cost $3,100 and $1,600 respectively, a $5,800 savings over Ventrac!! Money to buy more (less expensive) implements. How can you still continue to argue this????

Very easy, I have both and you are just making an assumptions....... jim