Moving Cordwood

   / Moving Cordwood #51  
Get the forks and then add "The Thumb" for an effective and low cost solution.
 

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   / Moving Cordwood #52  
These "forks" were made for 50 bucks. 3/4" stock. They bolt to the bucket with 1/2" bolts.
If I had to do them over, I'd make em out of 1" stock.
The curl in the stock is important. It makes it uber easy to mount the log onto the tines.
Nice. I had something similar on my first Kubota. One comment though; It would be simple and advantageous to put an upright piece on each fork to prevent the logs from rolling up the bucket and down the loader arms into your lap. Recent;y I posted about a local man who didn't have that, and was killed when a log rolled onto him. Self exiled member OldPath also pointed that out frequently, and showed how his bucket forks were set up.
 
   / Moving Cordwood #53  
Nice. I had something similar on my first Kubota. One comment though; It would be simple and advantageous to put an upright piece on each fork to prevent the logs from rolling up the bucket and down the loader arms into your lap. Recent;y I posted about a local man who didn't have that, and was killed when a log rolled onto him. Self exiled member OldPath also pointed that out frequently, and showed how his bucket forks were set up.
This is always a good idea.
I think some people curl their buckets too much in order to hold the logs in. They also raise their buckets too high w/o tipping the bucket down for fear of losing the log.
These forks are long enough to hold the stem in and the little "curl" on the end prevents them from rolling off as I tip the bucket to approach load off.
I can safely stack logs in this way with no fear of roll back.
Those little fork bar holders I have are 8" off the bucket and can also lend themselves to prevent roll back.
They have never had to be put into effect in this way with these forks and responsible fel handling
 

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   / Moving Cordwood #54  
These "forks" were made for 50 bucks. 3/4" stock. They bolt to the bucket with 1/2" bolts.
If I had to do them over, I'd make em out of 1" stock.
The curl in the stock is important. It makes it uber easy to mount the log onto the tines.
Those are what I call "bucket tusks". I'm thinking discarded auto leak springs would be Ideal stock . Having a bit of curl in wouldn't be a bad thing. Real bear cat to drill though. Hard pressure and sulfur cutting oil.
 
   / Moving Cordwood #55  
I'll second the use of simple tongs for a one-time job. I did this for a whole lot of wood with my tractor.

But then I got pallet forks, and they are just so extraordinarily useful for stuff that I cannot imagine owning a tractor without them now. So the SSQA + forks is the best bet overall, in my estimation, and buying some tongs for $100 is a fine budget approach. I still use mine once in a while if I need to lift a log straight up out of a pile and need to situate the focus of the load further back toward the pins of the tractor (I do this be dangling them off the fork frame).
 
   / Moving Cordwood #56  
I'm with the add a set of forks group , but used the chain around the bucket style
they also had a rectangle built in, to insert two 2 x 6's as a back stops.
Worked very well before getting a grapple and then pallet forks from a skid steer

Bought mine from another company - but these are similar

 
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