3pt log splitter

[robpm]

What is it with carburetors today on small engines?? I use non-alcohol gas, add stabilizer, and it seems I'm constantly fixing or replacing carbs anyway. Very frustrating. It's true that they sit around for long periods without getting used, but that's always been the case with my machines, and it's only the past five years or so that carbs are giving me fits.

Its the corn syrup in the gas. Put a shut off on the gas if you do not already have one and when you are done running the small engine turn the gas off and let it run until it dies from no fuel. This will save your carburetor and allow your unit to start up when you go to use it again.

 

[WranglerX]

What is it with carburetors today on small engines?? I use non-alcohol gas, add stabilizer, and it seems I'm constantly fixing or replacing carbs anyway. Very frustrating. It's true that they sit around for long periods without getting used, but that's always been the case with my machines, and it's only the past five years or so that carbs are giving me fits.

if its a B&S it is probably the seat for float needle valve, to remove one machining step in manufacturing they use a Neoprene "O" ring as seat, and no matter how well you care for engine its seems to swell up and foul needle... Every Briggs I have dealt with in last few years has has this problem.... Guess that is why B&S has filed for bankruptcy....

Ironical the Cheap Chinese Preadtor Engine from HF starts first or second pull every time no matter how long it has been shut down or if fuel bowl in empty or full....

 

[robpm]

Dont know where your located but a friend of mine has a new Speeco that he wants to sell.
Probably could get it for $1000 from what hes told me. Looks like this one except his is yellow.

View attachment 701130

Tractor Supply sold the Speeco under their CountyLine branding on it in yellow. I know, I own one. Here is a video of a guy using it with his Kubota

and another one as well with a Kubota

They do not sell it anymore at least their website no longer shows it. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/catalog/log-splitters?ddkey=https:tsc/search/wood+splitter#facet:&facetLimit:&productBeginIndex:0&beginIndex:0&orderBy:&pageView:&minPrice:&maxPrice:&pageSize:&

Here are some pics of it countyline 3 point log splitter - Google Search

This is the link to the Speeco SpeeCo Products

I have a JD 990 with 8 gpm flow and it works ok but it is slow but no problem with power in splitting. It also flips down so you can split in vertical mode. You cannot bring it in horizontal mode close to the ground as you can other 3PH splitters. I obtained it because it was included with the tractor when I bought it used with only 75 hrs on the tractor. I found the tractor because I was just looking at woodsplitters on Craig's list one day and up came the 990 with the County Line 3PH splitter.

I also own a Splitfire which the OP showed a picture of their 3PH splitter. Mine is a standalone with a Honda engine which they sell. It has a log lift on it. I would never use another splitter whether 3PH or stand alone other than the Splitfire. It is built like a tank and the two way splitting is exceptional. I understand that the OP is not into speed but any time you use a woodsplitter hooked to a CUT's hydraulics it is going to be naturally slow. So you can still continue to be slow but get the energy advantage from using both directions of the hydraulic cylinder.

Split-Fire has what looks to be 5 different models Quality Built Canadian 2-Way 3-Point Hitch Log Splitters - Split-Fire which I am guessing have different cylinder sizes. I am like the OP I would like to stand while splitting and not have to bend over. Mine has a log lift which I put on after the fact. I purchased it from Split-Fire. You can purchase the log lifter from them still found here Custom Options - Split-Fire 2-Way Log Splitters and Wood Chippers and the site says that you can get it for the 3PH model as well. If it were me I would go with the Split-Fire and get the log lifter put on it. I would call them up and talk with them to know what height log lifter you want on it and then go with that option. I don't beleive you could do any better. Another nice feature of the log lifter is that you can use it as a table as you split, back and forth, to put the split pieces on with out having them drop to the ground and then have to pick them up again.

You have my 2 cents worth.

Rob

P.S. I just wanted to add to my post that you will have full force in both directions. I am guessing that the engineering calcs on hydraulic cylinders has some what a different force in each direction but I don't know what that difference is. I have not had any problems with that using my Split-Fire. And if that were the case than why do we only have one hydraulic cylinder on our FEL's and BH's and we use them and get the power out of them when using them in both directions.

 

[robpm]

Here is 3PH "Lumber Jack" splitter that is up on a stand and in-plane with the the tractor from Agri Supply instead of crossplane like the Speeco is. The reviews are positive apart from leaving them in the packaging outside and the manual gets destroyed. Looks like a standard going price of $800 without hoses. 3 Point Hitch Log Splitter | Agri Supply 90627

I saw another thread on GTT regarding a guy purchasing the County Line 3PH and like Tractor supply does, this was back in 2016, and it looks like they were already discontinued so the guy was able to purchase it for just under $500 which was an excellent deal to say the least. You can read it here TSC 3 Point Hitch Log Splitter I bought a Ratchet Rake from Tractor Supply after they had discontinued selling them. The original price was over $300 and ended up paying $90 for it and it was brand new!

Here is a good page to look at 3PH log splitters Tractor Log Splitters - 3 Point Wood Splitters, PTO Log Splitters

 

[ericm979]

P.S. I just wanted to add to my post that you will have full force in both directions. I am guessing that the engineering calcs on hydraulic cylinders has some what a different force in each direction but I don't know what that difference is. I have not had any problems with that using my Split-Fire. And if that were the case than why do we only have one hydraulic cylinder on our FEL's and BH's and we use them and get the power out of them when using them in both directions.

Force from a cylinder is determined by PSI and the area of the piston. There is less force in the retraction direction because the area of the piston is reduced by the cross section area of the rod.

Most of the time splitters use nowhere near their max force. My stand alone with a two speed pump rarely shifts to the slow more powerful speed. So you can usually get by with the reduced force on the return stroke. But if you have a tough round to split, best to do it in the extension direction.

 

[Bikewanderer]

It looks like speeco is not making the splitter at all any longer.

 

[Deere Toyz]

Hi Folks-I am a little late to the party, but I went through the same consideration of issues when I contemplated a 3 point splitter for my 2520. Much of what I read counseled against it. I bought a used Timberwolf TW2 Heavy Duty with log lift. The TW1's are really great from my experience renting them, and they sell for around 2K last I checked locally. By having a stand alone splitter, you can use the bucket loader on the tractor to collect split wood as you go and its one less touch of the wood to stack. Wood goes into the bucket and then to the wood sheds. I tow the splitter to where I want to set up, detach it and then cover when I am done splitting for the day. The tractor is free to do other chores and assist with the wood processing. One other thing to think about if you store your tractor inside--the log splitter hanging off the back would have prevented me from garaging the tractor during wood splitting times. I have the 4-way wedge attachment and hardly ever use it. The hydraulic log lift also serves as a work bench to stage 5 or 6 logs in the cue for splitting.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

 

[grsthegreat]

I haul 6’ sections to central splitting and stacking area. Cut lengths into 16-18” sections while sitting on torks at working height to lessen leaning over. Cut, split ant stack in work area so as not to have to haul twice. Works great.

 

[Mudfarmer]

My "Rankin Equipment Company" log splitter which I purchased ten years ago along with my "Power Beyond" equipped JD 3005 is bulletproof. Cost $1125 at the time. Three point splitters are generally cheaper than the equivalent stand-alone since there is no engine or hydraulic pump that you are paying for. No lift, but for big blocks you simply put it into vertical and roll the block in - just right if you're in no big hurry. I usually split about four cords a year. The best part is there is no maintenance necessary.
Mf

 

[Underdog57]

I haul 6’ sections to central splitting and stacking area. Cut lengths into 16-18” sections while sitting on torks at working height to lessen leaning over. Cut, split ant stack in work area so as not to have to haul twice. Works great.

Yup! That's how I do it, Except I try to cut 8' logs.

 

[grsthegreat]

Yup! That's how I do it, Except I try to cut 8' logs.

getting out thru my trees with 8' would be tricky. my path allows 6' without issue. i made my trails wide so i can drive my combined drive carriage with a team of horses thru trails. i had some great pics of us driving the trails....need to find them. all i can find is a photo hanging up downstairs thats been blurred by guy taking photos and printed on canvas. does not photograph well, but looks great on wall.

 

[AndyMA]

Where are you located. I have a Northern Hydraulics (now Tool) one that needs a new valve or the stuck one loosened up you can have for $300. It's in North Haven CT 06473

Andy

 

[Carl_NH]

Have had a Ramsplitter 3 PT for 15 years. http://www.ramsplitter.com/3-point-log-splitters.html

It's set up for the 3PTH but I have it on the loader and ran off my BH hydraulic lines. It

can go down to the ground using the FEL for big logs. Also, use the BH to lift and cut the rounds, then reconnect the splitter lines and start splitting.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I'm always amazed how fast posters here jump in to proclaim what a terrible idea a 3 point splitter is, and how their stand alone splitter is such a better idea!

I'm equally amazed how many posters here have 3 point splitters and really like them, including me,

It just keeps on keeping on, reliable getting the job done with power and speed, slooooowly sipping diesel fuel!

My wife says, it's one of our "best buys"! Even she likes to run it,

SR

 

[ptsg]

I'm always amazed how fast posters here jump in to proclaim what a terrible idea a 3 point splitter is, and how their stand alone splitter is such a better idea!

I'm equally amazed how many posters here have 3 point splitters and really like them, including me,

It just keeps on keeping on, reliable getting the job done with power and speed, slooooowly sipping diesel fuel!

My wife says, it's one of our "best buys"! Even she likes to run it,

SR

I agree.

While mine is the pull type, I still run it off the remotes on the tractor. It has had several versions over the years. Started out with a small Tecumseh gas engine but that's a lot of noise, not enough power, slow and it's just another engine using fuel as I still needed the tractor anyway. Gas is expensive here, diesel too but less expensive than gas.

Second version was a 3 phase electric motor. Good speed, power and low noise. By far the best version it had until I had 3 phase on the place I split wood. I now just use the tractor remotes, set it somewhere between 1200 and 1500 RPM and let it run. The engine runs very quiet, doesn't use crazy amounts of fuel and gives me a decent working speed.

I've been contemplating converting it to 3 pt mounted and maybe run it using a PTO pump but I only use it like three times a year, so it's not really worth it.

 

[kpsp50]

Do some research and build your own like I did will cost about $500 scrap yard for your H beam and surplus center for hyd. Cyl. and valve fun build

 

[3Ts]

How thick do the flanges on the H beam need to be so they don't distort when pushing on the log?

 

[WranglerX]

How thick do the flanges on the H beam need to be so they don't distort when pushing on the log?

i would think minimally 6x6x3/8 inch (H beam) .... Which is slightly more robust than my 22 ton stand alone splitter...

But size of beam may depend on how much tonnage you can engineer into splitter (pressure/ram size) ...

 

[Bikewanderer]

I'm always amazed how fast posters here jump in to proclaim what a terrible idea a 3 point splitter is, and how their stand alone splitter is such a better idea!

Yeah, never understood that myself.

In general, my plan is similar to yours. Cut wood into logs or firewood lengths near where the tree was, then load on my trucks dump bed immediately. I can EITHER split the wood here or near my firewood stack, but either way it's no an extra handling step and the tractor is not needed. I would like to store on firewood racks holding about 1 cord each, and carry to the house one rack at a time. I have a spot on the patio that in the winter is not used for anything but firewood.

 

[shooterdon]

I'm always amazed how fast posters here jump in to proclaim what a terrible idea a 3 point splitter is, and how their stand alone splitter is such a better idea!

I'm equally amazed how many posters here have 3 point splitters and really like them, including me,

It just keeps on keeping on, reliable getting the job done with power and speed, slooooowly sipping diesel fuel!

My wife says, it's one of our "best buys"! Even she likes to run it,

SR

I am not surprised at all. Processing firewood is not like a math problem with one right answer.

The needs of a two cord user are different than a 10 cord user. Someone who buys logs does not have to deal with large rounds or gnarly wood to split. Some folks split wood in the woods and others take rounds or logs near where the firewood will be stacked. Some people enjoy the work and speed is not a prime factor, while others view it as a chore to be done as efficiently as possible. Some work alone and some with a partner.

Look at the post by ptsg. He uses his splitter three times a year, yet mentions fuel efficiency as an important criteria. But fuel cost is not am important consideration for Americans splitting a handful of cords a year. ptsg is likely paying three times our cost in Portugal.

No...one size does not fit all.

I no longer need a splitter as I have a better way that works for us and our meets needs. It takes a day to process 6-8 cords depending on the logs I get and that is enough for a years supply. It costs me $250 to process a year of firewood....no saw, no splitter, no space to store equipment and no maintenance. Here is 15 hours of production by the two of us:

If I could not rent a processor, I would get a decent electric splitter like the one I posted a link to earlier in this thread. There is plenty of power from the building shown in the background. Might order a unit that runs on 230V so my friends could not borrow it...LOL