The OP is in GA. That means there is a good chance of a hurricane or tornado. If you build this to code you must account for the up lift as well as the downward pressure. Even if you have no codes to follow you would want to follow good building practices. A piece of rebar stuck into the end of a 4 x 4 pt post will rate about a zero on the uplift scale. The connector that MossRoad posted is an outstanding way to tie the posts together. There are times to be frugal and there are times to bite the bullet and spend the money. Making the frame of your barn as strong as you can is a wise investment.
Homemade, prefab, concrete and pine post
- Thread starter rbstern
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3Ts
Elite Member
Don't forget that wood expands and contracts based on moisture (humidity). As it does this it will crush the fibers in the wood and loosen the grip on the rebar. Eventually it will be loose enough to slip right off. For an example, take a look at the j-bolt embedded in the concrete to hold a sill plate. Tighten those nuts down and a year later you can tighten them some more by hand.
jthibodeau89
Gold Member
Just make your own version of the sturdy post steel base from 3/16~1/4 x 5 flat bar and #3 rebar in 2.5" sq pattern. Need to have a press brake to bend the flat bar and a welder to assemble rebar cage. 9" diameter post hole 3' deep (not much frost line in GA). 6x6 Square form the concrete above grade 1.5~2'. Through bolt your rough sawn 6×6 timber post. I would personally use 4' rebar rods to get any bending or tensile loads below grade.nerd to rent or purchase a 8~10' concrete vibrator.
I plan to use a similar technique for vineyard trellis end posts. Wife wants organic, so PT is out. Plan to use 10' recycled sch40 4"pipe with a sq cage of #3 rebar and fill with concrete. Once full and deaerated, push on a cap and lay out flat. I have a steep embankment to use for filling pipe. Place cross bars through the buried end to help anchor. PVC pipes are $15 ea. Rebar will be about $20/ post. Total post cost about $45 each, plus my time. 3.5" sch40 galv rigid conduit is $150/10' stick. PT 8"×10' posts are $50, but wife doesnt agree on PT.
I plan to use a similar technique for vineyard trellis end posts. Wife wants organic, so PT is out. Plan to use 10' recycled sch40 4"pipe with a sq cage of #3 rebar and fill with concrete. Once full and deaerated, push on a cap and lay out flat. I have a steep embankment to use for filling pipe. Place cross bars through the buried end to help anchor. PVC pipes are $15 ea. Rebar will be about $20/ post. Total post cost about $45 each, plus my time. 3.5" sch40 galv rigid conduit is $150/10' stick. PT 8"×10' posts are $50, but wife doesnt agree on PT.
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duffer
Platinum Member
No matter what solution you choose for the rebar application for the concrete, I whole heartedly concur that you need to get your posts setting above grade, and the finished floor. If you raise the footings to 18"-24" above grade, you'll drastically reduce the probably of termites visiting.
Also, instead of cutting 6"x6" posts with your sawmill, cut 2x6's and laminate 3 of them together, alternating grain patterns. This will likely prevent warping or twisting in the posts over time. And you can inset a beam in the top of it, to carry your trusses, or rafters.
Also, instead of cutting 6"x6" posts with your sawmill, cut 2x6's and laminate 3 of them together, alternating grain patterns. This will likely prevent warping or twisting in the posts over time. And you can inset a beam in the top of it, to carry your trusses, or rafters.
OP
rbstern
Platinum Member
Your post brings to mind another potential advantage of the 2x6's laminated: The middle board could extend past the bottom of the other two boards and could be cross-drilled for a piece of rebar, 6" wide, to provide vertical load resistance.
OP
rbstern
Platinum Member
Not unheard of, but we are actually in one of the least hurricane and tornado prone portions of the state (northeast, near Anderson, SC).
Pondering modifications to the idea. I may build a prototype just to play with.
I mean no disrespect but this was very easy to find.
www.homefacts.com
It states that only 26 storms since 1930. That is every 3.5 years, on average. If I was putting up a new barn or house I would want it to be strong enough to live through several storms.
Anderson, SC - Hurricane Information & Risks | Homefacts
Obtain Hurricane information for Anderson, SC. Learn about hurricane risk, hurricane trends, and hurricane patterns in Anderson, South Carolina.
It states that only 26 storms since 1930. That is every 3.5 years, on average. If I was putting up a new barn or house I would want it to be strong enough to live through several storms.
fried1765
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I think MossRoad most definitely has the better idea.
I have 6 x 6 treated posts in my Morton building built in 1984 (now 37 years old).
At 80 now, the building will definitely outlast me.
Given the choice at the time though, I would have opted for those "Perma Column Sturdi Wall" connectors.
I have two sons in their 50's......I seriously doubt that those PT posts will last another 30 years.
OP
rbstern
Platinum Member
I mean no disrespect but this was very easy to find.
Anderson, SC - Hurricane Information & Risks | Homefacts
Obtain Hurricane information for Anderson, SC. Learn about hurricane risk, hurricane trends, and hurricane patterns in Anderson, South Carolina.
It states that only 26 storms since 1930. That is every 3.5 years, on average. If I was putting up a new barn or house I would want it to be strong enough to live through several storms.
No disrespect perceived.
That site reports Anderson County (and Hart County, GA, where I live), as "very low risk hurricane zones." The 26 reported storms since 1930 were within a 150 mile radius. Last storm? Sixteen years ago.
Not saying I shouldn't build a sturdy building; just saying the storm risk in this particular part of the SE U.S. is low. Very low.
HarryMonkey
New member
No matter where I build, I would use the Simpson Strong-ties (or similar) to anchor the wood to the concrete and at least soak the bottom of the wooden posts in a solution of diesel oil and the Copper anti-termite solution on any piece that touches dirt or concrete---I use a metal barrel and stand the posts in it for a few days---you'll see it soaking upwards. If you check the price of Hurricane ties for attaching rafters, etc. you'll see they are very cheap insurance.
