Ford 1710 Battery Question

[FrancisKingzett]

Hi,

Looking for a little help with my old tractor, a Ford 1710.

Haven't started it in a year and it needs a new battery. Hard part is it has an old aftermarket bucket on the front that doesn't allow me to open the hood to access the battery unless I can start the tractor.

I can get my hand in to attach jumper cables but my cars don't seem to be powerful enough to jump start it.

Was wondering if anyone had the specifications for the battery required for the tractor. It's been 10 years since I bought the one in it and I don't have any records of it. Can't even really get a measuring tape in there to measure it. Have tried taking off the hood but pieces parts in the way make it very difficult. Hoping if I get a new battery I can jump the tractor with it and get it running to raise the bucket.

Appreciate any help. I know it is kind of an odd problem.

Thank you,

Francis

 

[CoyPatton]

Hi,

Looking for a little help with my old tractor, a Ford 1710.

Haven't started it in a year and it needs a new battery. Hard part is it has an old aftermarket bucket on the front that doesn't allow me to open the hood to access the battery unless I can start the tractor.

I can get my hand in to attach jumper cables but my cars don't seem to be powerful enough to jump start it.

Was wondering if anyone had the specifications for the battery required for the tractor. It's been 10 years since I bought the one in it and I don't have any records of it. Can't even really get a measuring tape in there to measure it. Have tried taking off the hood but pieces parts in the way make it very difficult. Hoping if I get a new battery I can jump the tractor with it and get it running to raise the bucket.

Appreciate any help. I know it is kind of an odd problem.

Thank you,

Francis

Instead of hooking your booster cables to the battery, try connecting to the starter end if the positive battery cable and to a starter bolt to frame. You may even want to disconnect the battery cable at the starter. You could run the tractor off of the booster cables long enough to raise the loader and support it if needed.

 

[FrancisKingzett]

Thank you.

I thought about that but I was afraid I might hurt something. I will try it if nothing else works Also in the best of times the glow plug needs to be warmed up before it will start. Runs great for a 40 something year old tractor but it is old and obviously I have neglected it.

I managed to measure the dimensions of the battery, only got stung twice, going to auto store to buy the most powerful in that size. It was 12 3/4" x 7" x 8 1/2" by the way.

Thank you again.

Francis

 

[RickB]

Can you remove the two front bolts the hood hinges on and lift it straight up enough to remove the lock bar then pick the hood off the rest of the way?

 

[CoyPatton]

Thank you.

I thought about that but I was afraid I might hurt something. I will try it if nothing else works Also in the best of times the glow plug needs to be warmed up before it will start. Runs great for a 40 something year old tractor but it is old and obviously I have neglected it.

I managed to measure the dimensions of the battery, only got stung twice, going to auto store to buy the most powerful in that size. It was 12 3/4" x 7" x 8 1/2" by the way.

Thank you again.

Francis

Glow plugs just add heat to assist with starting. They do a great job, but really should not be needed in most parts of the US in July. If cranking will not build up enough heat, put a hear gun or less effective a hair dryer in the intake as close to the engine as possible. Super heated intake air should assist in heat to start.
Also so long as your battery is still connected, you should be reverse flowing power to the battery and all tractor electrical systems. So glow plugs should be able yo be heated. Of course if the battery on the tractor is dead shorted, this may not work.

Some pictures of how your hood mounts might provide suggestions of how to get it opened or removed without raising the loader.

 

[neverfailyou]

Just a thought…I start my Ford 1720 by counting to 10 with glow plugs on then will normally start in 1st or 2nd crank. This works for me in 20deg F or 100deg F weather. Without the glow plugs, cranks and cranks longer than my comfort zone. (It’s an old starter and would be costly to replace). I do the same even when jumping the tractor with my smaller Chev S-10 truck.

 

[LD48750]

It's a diesel, it will run without a battery.
It runs with the key off.
Jump to the starter & do what you have to.

 

[RickB]

Glow plugs just add heat to assist with starting. They do a great job, but really should not be needed in most parts of the US in July. If cranking will not build up enough heat, put a hear gun or less effective a hair dryer in the intake as close to the engine as possible. Super heated intake air should assist in heat to start.
Also so long as your battery is still connected, you should be reverse flowing power to the battery and all tractor electrical systems. So glow plugs should be able yo be heated. Of course if the battery on the tractor is dead shorted, this may not work.

Some pictures of how your hood mounts might provide suggestions of how to get it opened or removed without raising the loader.

10 series Ford compacts are indirect injected. They require preheating every single time they are started unless they were shut down 5 or less minutes ago at operating temperature. Working glow plugs are a must have.

 

[Tinhack]

My 3910 has a single G.P. in the air intake path. It hasn't worked for the time I've owned it. (No wiring to it.) The tractor fires up in less than a second. The tractor didn't have the factory dash so I made new harnesses while I'm doing a makeover on it.

Perhaps mine isn't considered a compact?

 

[Chewwy]

Have you tried letting the old tractor’s battery charge a little when jumpered to the car while also having the car running well above idle? Let the old battery charge for at least 10 minutes this way.

Getting a little charge into an old battery is almost always necessary when jump starting one with a totally dead battery. A fully discharged battery takes a lot of the current from the jumper connection.

 

[stevem5215]

My 1900 Ford needed Glow plugs to heat or it wouldn't start. It was finicky for sure.

 

[PILOON]

I solved my boosting problems long ago.
I wired an Anderson plug directly to my battery posts and mounted it in a very accessible location.
Serves to boost the CUT when needed as well as any other vehicle.
Naturally my booster cables are also Anderson terminated.
Got that idea from tow truck operators.

 

[RickB]

My 3910 has a single G.P. in the air intake path. It hasn't worked for the time I've owned it. (No wiring to it.) The tractor fires up in less than a second. The tractor didn't have the factory dash so I made new harnesses while I'm doing a makeover on it.

Perhaps mine isn't considered a compact?

It is not a compact, the engine is not an indirect injected diesel and your 3910 has nothing more than brand and paint color in common with a 1710. The two engines were designed by completely different entities and built half a world away from each other.

 

[rScotty]

Yes. I suspect that you are right and that the dead battery is stealing so much charge from the jumper vehicle that the tractor starter doesn't have enough to crank with. That has happened to me.
If there is anyway to disconnect one of the tractor battery terminals - do it at the tractor battery - then I suspect that it will jump and start same as any jump start.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Glow plugs just add heat to assist with starting. They do a great job, but really should not be needed in most parts of the US in July. If cranking will not build up enough heat, put a hear gun or less effective a hair dryer in the intake as close to the engine as possible. Super heated intake air should assist in heat to start.
Also so long as your battery is still connected, you should be reverse flowing power to the battery and all tractor electrical systems. So glow plugs should be able yo be heated. Of course if the battery on the tractor is dead shorted, this may not work.

Some pictures of how your hood mounts might provide suggestions of how to get it opened or removed without raising the loader.

We have a 1900 bought new when Jimmy Carter was in office. In July you need to use the glow plugs. Even if it only sat less than an hour. Has been a great tractor too. Still used almost daily.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Hi,

Looking for a little help with my old tractor, a Ford 1710.

Haven't started it in a year and it needs a new battery. Hard part is it has an old aftermarket bucket on the front that doesn't allow me to open the hood to access the battery unless I can start the tractor.

I can get my hand in to attach jumper cables but my cars don't seem to be powerful enough to jump start it.

Was wondering if anyone had the specifications for the battery required for the tractor. It's been 10 years since I bought the one in it and I don't have any records of it. Can't even really get a measuring tape in there to measure it. Have tried taking off the hood but pieces parts in the way make it very difficult. Hoping if I get a new battery I can jump the tractor with it and get it running to raise the bucket.

Appreciate any help. I know it is kind of an odd problem.

Thank you,

Francis

Just get another hot lead. Take your other hot lead loose at the starter. Bolt new one on starter and hot post of new battery. Use both of your jumper cables to ground new battery to tractor, or get a ground lead too. Crank it. Do what you need to do.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I solved my boosting problems long ago.
I wired an Anderson plug directly to my battery posts and mounted it in a very accessible location.
Serves to boost the CUT when needed as well as any other vehicle.
Naturally my booster cables are also Anderson terminated.
Got that idea from tow truck operators.

Yes but this owner has a years dead battery and a hood that won't open.

 

[FERLING]

Glow plugs just add heat to assist with starting. They do a great job, but really should not be needed in most parts of the US in July. If cranking will not build up enough heat, put a hear gun or less effective a hair dryer in the intake as close to the engine as possible. Super heated intake air should assist in heat to start.
Also so long as your battery is still connected, you should be reverse flowing power to the battery and all tractor electrical systems. So glow plugs should be able yo be heated. Of course if the battery on the tractor is dead shorted, this may not work.

Some pictures of how your hood mounts might provide suggestions of how to get it opened or removed without raising the loader.

Don't know about a 1710 but I had a 1510 that in 95 degree weather you had to use heat plug for about 15 seconds or grind on it with starter for about 2 minutes before it would start. Diesel fuel that old who knows how long or if......?

 

[Tony H]

Instead of hooking your booster cables to the battery, try connecting to the starter end if the positive battery cable and to a starter bolt to frame. You may even want to disconnect the battery cable at the starter. You could run the tractor off of the booster cables long enough to raise the loader and support it if needed.

This Post has my vote. Old battery might be dragging down the car batteries. Are you sure it's a 12V system?