Min tractor size for repairing long gravel driveway with potholes?

[Root Cause]

The OP wants to buy a SCUT, and facts put forward here on TBN are seemingly unimportant.
He needs to buy two (or maybe even 3) tractors!
First, a tiny one called a SCUT, and then the following year a CUT (40 HP?)
He needs to experiment with tractor buying to gain understanding of his needs.
It is his money!
He does not want to accept solid advice!

It seems that he is intent to prove that his research is better than real-life experiences and just enjoys the debate not the context for consideration.

Any movie I see where someone is shoveling a grave looks like it takes about 10 minutes to go 6' deep. As I said earlier, enjoy your SCUT.

 

[dodge man]

Like a lot of things, there is no right or wrong answer. The op has convinced him self a scut will work. That’s not necessarily a bad choice, just not the best choice. If the driveway was 300 feet long it would be great but it sounds like a pretty long drive. You could bet by with a shovel, pick, and a rake also. That’s how I fixed bad places in my gravel drive before I got a tractor.
I’m not sure the OP laid out an exact budget, they just bought a new place they may not want to spend a lot of money. Buying a scut and using it for several years and getting something bigger isn’t a bad choice.

 

[fried1765]

Like a lot of things, there is no right or wrong answer. The op has convinced him self a scut will work. That’s not necessarily a bad choice, just not the best choice. If the driveway was 300 feet long it would be great but it sounds like a pretty long drive. You could bet by with a shovel, pick, and a rake also. That’s how I fixed bad places in my gravel drive before I got a tractor.
I’m not sure the OP laid out an exact budget, they just bought a new place they may not want to spend a lot of money. Buying a scut and using it for several years and getting something bigger isn’t a bad choice.

And........it is certainly not a good choice either!

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I just bought a house with a 600' long gravel driveway near Albany, NY. I'm looking for a used tractor that will be utilized for snowblowing, general loader use, and a box blade for the driveway maintenance. It's seeming like even a glorified lawn tractor would handle the snow blowing and probably our loader use. Though, i'm having a tough time determining how much tractor hp/weight would be needed for handling the box blade. There is a single hill that is roughly a 10° grade which may increase the size needs? The former owner had a new holland TC33, though i'm questioning if one that large is truly necessary for the tasks at hand.

Anyone have any tips on how to size a tractor for a box blade? I'm not too concerned about blade width/passes, biggest concern is simply being able to pull the rippers without losing traction. Just arbitrarily picking a brand here, but would the kubota bx subCompact line be capable or would the compact B line be necessary?

Here's an aerial, though not sure it has much bearing, but i suppose it makes the post more fun?

There's all sizes tractors around here. The 50 hp gets used the most by far. It's the middle size.

 

[repete]

I have a 30 horse and 60 horse. The 30 horse is the workhorse. 60HP is too big for barn cleaning as well as driveway maintenance. 30 horse is beat trying to keep up with 40 acres of pasture.
Each one has its place. I have no use for a SCUT as it cannot do either of those. Maybe my wife would in her garden.
Do not buy too little or too big. Decisions, decisions.
Each property has its particular needs and until you are familiar with tractors and work, you likely will not be able to make a good decision without advice of those who have traveled (graded) that road already.

 

[sd455dan]

If the op is dead set on 25 HP maybe take a look at a Branson 2515
he would have a 3000lb base weight tractor, decent sized tires/wheels ~4200lb with the loader, Good specs in abilities, hydraulics and features and @ around $18 K very reasonably priced.
No budget was discussed that I saw in this thread, but if he is limited to under about $7000 I think something like a Ford 3000 or similar with a FEL could do his road work and snow removal- I did a lot with mine, although it did have oversize 14.9 X 28 loaded R1s and chains. Never got that tractor stuck with a 1000+ # Gannon box blade on the 3 point. I was amazed with how much snow I could push/ move with the bucket and also push snow in reverse.

 

[btarb24]

Like a lot of things, there is no right or wrong answer. The op has convinced him self a scut will work. That’s not necessarily a bad choice, just not the best choice. If the driveway was 300 feet long it would be great but it sounds like a pretty long drive. You could bet by with a shovel, pick, and a rake also. That’s how I fixed bad places in my gravel drive before I got a tractor.
I’m not sure the OP laid out an exact budget, they just bought a new place they may not want to spend a lot of money. Buying a scut and using it for several years and getting something bigger isn’t a bad choice.

I don't have a budget and will not have to worry about financing, regardless of size. However, my goal is value. Step 1 is determining what size tractor is capable of the work - then step 2 is shopping to find the best value within that tractor bracket.

Thanks for the insight dodge - I find it interesting that you think that a scut would be adequate for a 300' driveway but not a 1200'. Is the concern of scale in regards to the snow removal or erosion repair? I think i'd be fine with snow removal being anywhere sub 3 hours and the rut repair being anywhere sub 12 hours.

I'm really hoping to hear from someone that owns a scut and may be able to comment on their own box blade experience with it.

--

Unrelated to the post i quoted, but does it not not seem counter-productive to continue supplying feedback that a 50hp, 3000# tractor towing an 8' blade is the absolute minimum tractor that can tend to a driveway? While i can understand that size may be the only tractor you would be willing to use, I would recommend applying some critical thought with the perspective of 'could' the job be done with a smaller tractor? Afterall, that is the mission here in this thread:
"Min tractor size for repairing long gravel driveway with potholes"

 

[airbiscuit]

Airbiscuit -- that is a great Youtube find -- super educational w/r to Kubotas in that size range.

JWR,

You own both a Kubota BX2200 and a Kubota B2150. Perhaps you can give your firsthand experience about the difference in their capabilities, and what You would recommend?

 

[nrosario]

"Min tractor size for repairing long gravel driveway with potholes"

No sure what your motives are or what you are really looking for here.
You had your answer already.

Minimum tractors is no tractor at all, or a garden tractor, or an SCUT as you seem to be fixated on-to.

You already said you don't care to spend 12hrs on it.
We keep telling you is not recommended, but you keep pushing at it.
So be it.

The reality is, with not much more money (vs SCUT) you can get the next frame size Up, and do allot more and faster.
For example: Kubota L2501, Deere 3025E, Kioti CK2610, etc.

Weight, HP and Size is key for ground engagement applications.

The smallest/minimum tractor will run out of traction quicker and will take allot more passes than anything else above that range.

 

[IndyJay]

No sure what your motives are or what you are really looking for here.
You had your answer already.

Minimum tractors is no tractor at all, or a garden tractor, or an SCUT as you seem to be fixated on-to.

You already said you don't care to spend 12hrs on it.
We keep telling you is not recommended, but you keep pushing at it.
So be it.

The reality is, with not much more money (vs SCUT) you can get the next frame size Up, and do allot more and faster.
For example: Kubota L2501, Deere 3025E, Kioti CK2610, etc.

Weight, HP and Size is key for ground engagement applications.

The smallest/minimum tractor will run out of traction quicker and will take allot more passes than anything else above that range.

When I first bought my farm I only had a riding mower, no tractor. I used to drag a railroad tie behind my riding mower to smooth out my 100' driveway and my indoor riding arena. It did okay but took forever and prematurely wore out my rider. When it came time where I could afford to buy something more suitable I bought a CUT. After running that for 27 years I bought a bigger CUT.