Features best included at time of purchase

[Ledgemere Farm]

Heading into my final phase before ordering a tractor...I have a list of features I think I want installed at or before purchase.

In no particular order:
3 sets of rear remote, 1 w/detent.
3rd function valve in front for grapple.
Telescoping lower links.
Pin-style stabilizer arms.
Position controlled 3pt
Top and Tilt hydraulic 3pt links
3pt adjustment lever near the hitch
Suspension seat with arm rests
3rd function integrated on FEL joystick
If HST, throttle linked and cruise

What am I missing? Only Tractor features, not implements. Will be doing about 5 acres of rotary cutting and 14 of tree work (pine plantation) about an acre of food plot. Will need to maintain driveway of 200 ft or so and paths across acreage.

Load your back tires

 

[coobie]

Heading into my final phase before ordering a tractor...I have a list of features I think I want installed at or before purchase.

In no particular order:
3 sets of rear remote, 1 w/detent.
3rd function valve in front for grapple.
Telescoping lower links.
Pin-style stabilizer arms.
Position controlled 3pt
Top and Tilt hydraulic 3pt links
3pt adjustment lever near the hitch
Suspension seat with arm rests
3rd function integrated on FEL joystick
If HST, throttle linked and cruise

What am I missing? Only Tractor features, not implements. Will be doing about 5 acres of rotary cutting and 14 of tree work (pine plantation) about an acre of food plot. Will need to maintain driveway of 200 ft or so and paths across acreage.

Loaded rear tires, front bucket hooks,LED front and rear work lights.What type Tires are you considering R1,R4,R14,s??

 

[RoyJackson]

Cab is not as practical for me. If I had unlimited funds I would buy 2, one with and one without...we are retiring early and cash will be somewhat limited.

The Kubota Grand L would have to be at least a 4760 to get the 1055 loader. That brings new MSRP to over $36k without the add-ons. Even with the horse discount, it is over $34k. Those prices are just not likely to get it done.

Good points on after market hydraulic options. My concern is cost. I know my limitations and I want it done right. I think I could install the T&T if the hydraulic valves are already installed. In a few years I may be comfortable with installing remotes, for now, I have to leave to the experts.

I'll have to dig into the details on the seats. Thanks.

I'm not retired, but that doesn't mean I want to spend a bunch of money...
I've had 5 tractors since 1999-2000. All Deeres and all progressively more PTO HP (except for my current 4052R). All were bought used. All have been pretty much trouble free and just routine maintenance.
Nothing wrong with buying used. The 4052 has a cab and several options. The price new was north of $50K in 2015 or 2016.I paid $35K for just over a year ago. The tractor had 321 hours on it and I've put about 40 hours on it. So far, a good machine. Only trouble I had was the battery went bad.
Deere has excellent financing and interest rates.
I won't knock any other brands, but I do suggest you look around and online.

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

Tractor will ultimately be determined by which dealer can get all of these things into the best package. Size will be 3-4k lbs with about 45 HP. I want at least 2k lift capacity at full height. I know that number is squishy, but I also hope to not need more than 75% of capacity. I figured that other than a couple of Kubota they are all "4wd", or front wheel assist. I want hooks on the bucket...do dealers do that? I have watched others weld, but that is all of my welding experience, so I either learn to do it or pay someone with skills. I figured work lights can be added cheaply after the fact. Brush guard and skid plates are a must, but after market may be a better option...not sure. Cab is about a 10% likelihood. I will be retired and can opt out of most bad weather issues. I don't think I looked at any without a horn. I don't think I will need the 540e, too few acres to cut at one time. Drawbar, yes. Kubota has the edge in proximity, but I would have to get a mx and they don't have most of the features standard...TYM and Branson seem to have the edge in value right now, but we'll see when actual quotes come out for all features. Kioti and LS are still on the table. (And by proxy, then, CaseIH, NH, and Bobcat)

Thanks for the help! I need to make sure some of these basic things are standard or are written into my proposal.

My idea is that I will give my 'finalists' a list of must-have options and specs give them a max budget and have them give me their best option with those parameters. My budget was $30k, but it may need to go up due to inflation. I'm flexible on HP down to 35, but I think I can do better.

Based on this post, I think you'd want to go Branson and try to hit 50hp.

 

[lostcause]

I would look at getting all of the hydraulics related items on with the tractor build - at the very least get a quote on what the cost would be to build it that way and then compare it to the kits to add it later. The few hydraulic add-ons I have done require removing of some stock plumbing and equipment to add the new stuff on. You paid for those parts when the tractor was built and now you're paying to remove them and toss them aside with low chance of reuse / resale. Price out kits for remotes, top & tilt, power beyond, etc... They aren't cheap. putting a better seat on later is likely a costly change too - probably cheaper to add it to the build.

If you need to save a few bucks, try to go without the ones that are just add-ons and don't require removing something you already paid for, though those are small - loading tires, hooks, etc.

 

[mo1]

Heading into my final phase before ordering a tractor...I have a list of features I think I want installed at or before purchase.

In no particular order:
3 sets of rear remote, 1 w/detent.
3rd function valve in front for grapple.
Telescoping lower links.
Pin-style stabilizer arms.
Position controlled 3pt
Top and Tilt hydraulic 3pt links
3pt adjustment lever near the hitch
Suspension seat with arm rests
3rd function integrated on FEL joystick
If HST, throttle linked and cruise

What am I missing? Only Tractor features, not implements. Will be doing about 5 acres of rotary cutting and 14 of tree work (pine plantation) about an acre of food plot. Will need to maintain driveway of 200 ft or so and paths across acreage.

I would look at some specific tractors to see what the standard features are and what is even available for factory or dealer-installed options. Some tractors for example aren't available with telescoping 3 point arms, arm rests on the seat, more than 2 rear remotes, or a 3rd function joystick from the factory or with dealer options, those things would have to be aftermarket. People generally buy a tractor with the options they knew they needed and suspected they would want as you generally could negotiate them into the total purchase at a discount, but having them added on later was generally done at full cost. Labor is a big cost so anything you can't install yourself or is difficult to install yourself (such as a loader, wheel weights weighing >200 lbs, tire fluid, hydraulics, a block heater, creeper, etc.) is better to negotiate in initially rather than come back later and pay full price for parts and labor. Things that are easy to install yourself and widely available as an aftermarket unit at a lower price such as a cab radio, external hydraulic cylinders, a canopy, etc. typically people don't order with the tractor and just get it themselves later.

You have not mentioned exactly what tractor you intend on getting, so here's some things to think about:

- You probably don't want too large of a tractor as you only mention working 19 acres in total, consisting of mowing 5 acres with a rotary cutter, putting in a 1 acre food plot, and maintaining a 200 foot driveway. Too large of a tractor is too difficult to maneuver around in small places and is absolutely a pain to work with. You mention lifting a ton with a loader to full height in another post, that requires a large compact or a smaller full-sized utility tractor which is larger than you would otherwise need and perhaps larger than you would otherwise want. If you can, I would demo a unit and that would tell you a lot.
- You will need sufficient ballast for your tractor as you mention using a loader and a grapple. This can be a combination of filled tires, wheel weights, a ballast box, and/or a heavy 3 point implement. Whatever you use, it needs to be heavy enough, and your manual will tell you how much you need.
- You will probably want regular ag (R1) tires based on your mentioned usage. If you fill them, most places will fill with water/methanol which is inexpensive and relatively hassle-free, and your dealer generally will get that arranged prior to delivery. A few do calcium chloride which is inexpensive and heavier than methanol/water, but you would really want tire tubes if you go that route. If you want something else such as foam or beet juice, you more likely than not will have to get that done yourself.
- You would want a 5' or 6' rotary cutter for those 5 acres and keeping the brush knocked down on paths. That would require a 25-35 HP tractor.
- I have never seen much of a use for seat arm rests, my zero turn has them and they actually get in the way. My tractor does not have them and I do not wish it had them.
- Telescoping lower links are not needed if you intend on running a quick hitch.
- Top and tilt seems to be a personal preference thing and most often seen used with a box blade to vary the angle of attack and the side to side level. You can always make these adjustments manually with the 3 point top and side links, I would recommend thinking about how often you actually need to adjust these when using implements. If it's often, then a top and tilt may make sense, if you set it once before using your implement and then leave it, maybe not so much.
- You can always use a rear remote to control a grapple if needed. Whether or not you want to depends on how much you use the grapple, how convenient it is to reach the rear remote's lever, and how expensive the third function kit is. Some 3rd functions are on a diverter where you lose the ability to use some other hydraulic function when using that function, others are an actual remote.

 

[JCoastie]

I want hooks on the bucket...do dealers do that?

My LS dealer welded 2 hooks and 2 clevis mounts on my bucket before delivery. I provided them the hardware, they welded them no charge. They also filled the tires as part of their standard setup. Here in the south, it's just plain water, no additives. I also had the 3rd function installed at the time of purchase, and went back a couple months later for the rear remotes, should have done those at purchase also.

 

[Steppenwolfe]

Why? They haven’t impressed me more than others!

Then don't put them on your list... I wouldn't buy anything else, but hey... That's me.

 

[rScotty]

Five or ten years ago the different brands weren't as equal as they are now. It will be interesting to see what you find from different dealers.

Transmission? Is shuttle shift/powershift in the running? Or does it have to be HST? Only one brand makes a power shifting 6 range HST.....

I would add to the list that the front bucket attach be the SSQA type. There isn't any downside and lots of upside on a 40+ hp tractor. Get the spare front hydraulic control - called a 3rd function - then with SSQA it is easy to swap in a grapple or other front implement.

I prefer bolted to welded chain hooks on the bucket. But regardless of mounting type each hook needs a backup plate.

It's a personal preference as to tires and weights. Mine is for Industrial Tread and cast iron wheel weights. The industrial tread has more side stability and less tearing of turf - both are nice to have in a mowing machine.
But many would prefer Ag tread instead if doing mostly ground engaging tilling and plowing. And there's a certain "look" to ag tires which appeals to some tractor buffs.
Cast iron wheel weights vs liquid fill is more a personal thing; nice to have but expensive.
Good Luck,
rScotty

 

[SmallChange]

I'm guessing you're in the hp range that will come this way anyhow, but if you're like me, you'll want it to have a high exhaust, not one that blows it down and forward.

Seems clear enough to me that you build the latrine downstream of the mess, but somehow many small tractors didn't get this strategy.

 

[rScotty]

I hear you, but some larger tractors didn't get that figured out either.

Aiming the exhaus at thefront tire on Kubota's M59 makes a sooty mess all over the tire, wheel and nearby parts.... and then when revved up the exhaust refects straight back into the face of the operator. Clearly nobody at Kubota tried it before finalizing the design.

It was about the first thing everyone comments on when running the tractor. Even the salesman mentioned it.

But how important is that? All it takes is fifty bucks worth of flex pipe and clamps from Amazon to run the exhaust anywhere you want.
rScotty

 

[rgr33]

That’s going to be one fine tractor when you get it Torvy

probably better prepare yourself for sticker shock though.

 

[Torvy]

A few things I didn't mention because I didn't think of it...yes, SSQA on all that are still being considered. Rear tires will be filled. Seems most dealers around here use water with an antifreeze fluid of some sort. It is supposed to hit 20 degrees tonight. That is on the low end of our 'typical' winters here. Almost never gets to zero.

I am thinking for my needs, R4 makes the most sense. If 14s were on it, OK. My preference is for the wider tire for stability and I will rarely, if ever, plow. More concerned with puncture resistance than the additional traction, in my case. I am also shooting for one with the fuel fill down low, we aren't getting any younger. No plans to use quick hitch on the back, just not a big deal to me and something I could add later if I change my mind. The HST is only a consideration if the linked throttle is in there, too. Power shuttle would be nice, it will likely come down to tradeoffs.

For those who haven't read other posts of mine on this...I am a serious data nerd. I have a huge spreadsheet with 11 makes and pretty much every CUT or small utility under 60HP in it. Seat details are hard to find. I am watching a lot of brand specific YouTube of late to figure it out. Most with arms have them move up as needed. I've been to the dealers on most of these, the problem has been having the target inventory available to drive.

My top contenders... TYM 494 or 574: Branson 20 series; LS MT3 series; Kioti DK or NS series. (this would include the CaseIH, NH and Bobcat versions of those)
I'd like to consider the Massey 2800M series...but, 2 of the 5 dealers they have near my property are no longer selling MF, but are still on MF dealer locator.

 

[mo1]

I would add to the list that the front bucket attach be the SSQA type. There isn't any downside and lots of upside on a 40+ hp tractor. Get the spare front hydraulic control - called a 3rd function - then with SSQA it is easy to swap in a grapple or other front implement.

It's a personal preference as to tires and weights. Mine is for Industrial Tread and cast iron wheel weights. The industrial tread has more side stability and less tearing of turf - both are nice to have in a mowing machine.
But many would prefer Ag tread instead if doing mostly ground engaging tilling and plowing. And there's a certain "look" to ag tires which appeals to some tractor buffs.
Cast iron wheel weights vs liquid fill is more a personal thing; nice to have but expensive.
Good Luck,
rScotty

Most compact tractors only offer a skid loader quick-attach. Deere is the obvious exception as they offer the "small" Deere quick-attach on all of their compact loaders and the option of a skid loader QA on some of them. The Deere QA setup in my opinion is the easiest and most foolproof one out there, personally I find it quicker and easier to use than the skid loader QA. The main downside to it is that there are fewer attachments which use JDQA vs. skid loader QA, particularly at rental yards.

Tire choice depends mostly on intended usage. Ag tires clearly have the best traction of the bunch. Industrials are less aggressive but also are generally a sturdier/tougher tire than most ag tires and are sometimes chosen for that reason.

Cast iron wheel weights on air-filled tires vs. no additional weights attached to fluid filled tires depends some on the kind of tires being run and some on personal preference. Cast iron weights on air-filled tires appears to be more common in guys who run radial ag tires as the fluid fill diminishes many of the benefits of those more-expensive radial tires. Some people will have both cast iron and fluid filled tires if they need the weight.

 

[paulfun9]

Then don't put them on your list... I wouldn't buy anything else, but hey... That's me.

Again I ask why? But as always you have nothing with any real foundation to add!

 

[Torvy]

Again I ask why? But as always you have nothing with any real foundation to add!

I get why, I just don't agree unless the price is close. With cars, I will pay more for a Toyota because of a long track record of measurably better reliability. I have 3 Toyotas and a Subaru right now. The Subaru is only 3 years old and has had more problems that the 2013 Camry. The kids car (Matrix) runs fine but has really brittle exterior door handles. Just my long way of saying I get brand loyalty. Kubota is bigger in terms of dealerships and sales, but that doesn't always mean what I care about.

 

[wolc123]

Loaded rear tires and a block heater are the only options that I added the last time I bought a new tractor (in 2005). I have not regretted either of those, nor have I regretted not adding any other option.

 

[RoyJackson]

In retrospect, I wish I had 4th and 5th function rear remotes before the 4052R tractor was delivered. At minimum, it would have saved a couple hundred bucks pickup and delivery fees. I don't have a trailer, nor is my Tacoma big enough to handle a trailer and 5000# tractor
The only thing I did add were 3 bucket hooks which I use frequently (might be a little less frequent since I bought pallet forks a few months ago)

 

[paulfun9]

I get why, I just don't agree unless the price is close. With cars, I will pay more for a Toyota because of a long track record of measurably better reliability. I have 3 Toyotas and a Subaru right now. The Subaru is only 3 years old and has had more problems that the 2013 Camry. The kids car (Matrix) runs fine but has really brittle exterior door handles. Just my long way of saying I get brand loyalty. Kubota is bigger in terms of dealerships and sales, but that doesn't always mean what I care about.

I still don’t get it. My kubota s were not nearly as comfortable as others, didn’t last any longer, and that dreaded tredle pedal would have me only buy an other if the cost was much less. Something one has to compromise on and live with to me lowers value substantially.
As for Toyota, my experiance wasn’t as stellar as some with one blown engine before any real miles and one small truck back in the day that rusted so fast you could probably set in a lawn chair drink a beer and watch it’s progress. But not much back in those years seemed to not rust too fast.
Subaru? Again not much luck here but some family members seem to be happy with them. They are the type that pay regularly at the dealership for scheduled and all recommended maintenance.

Me I do oil and filters at regular intervals and anything more I consider repair. I have heard too many fooled with the trick of calling a timing belt regular maint, when in fact it’s a repair. I can’t count how many times someone tried arguing that repairs on thier car for many different things were just maintenance items while bragging about how long the car lasted and how great it was, but if a 20 dollar water pump on a Chevy goes south it’s junk. So a set of suspension bushings, 2 cv joints, a throwout bearing or a transmission flush, filter is just normal maintenance why is the 20 dollar water pump a major break down. You still drive both home running one cost 20 bucks and a trip into town the other took you a loner car 5 days and several hundred bucks to tell me how great it is?
Out of the import cars I have had best luck with Nissan and Hyundai.

 

[RoyJackson]

Subaru? Again not much luck here but some family members seem to be happy with them. They are the type that pay regularly at the dealership for scheduled and all recommended maintenance.

I've owned a SAAB (old 2 stroke Model 96) and a Subaru (Early 2000's Outback). As long as SAAB and Subaru were simple cars, they were great and, in my experience, quite reliable.
As soon as they went upscale (what we used to refer to as "Yuppified"), they really went to crap. Same with Volvo, but maybe not to the same extent.
I'm happy with my Tacoma and unlike the older models, isn't a rust bucket (I've read that years ago the Tacoma pick up beds were made in California...and those beds were the real problem).
If I were to buy a car today, I think I'd be looking at a Mercedes Benz 240D or 300TD. These are 30-40 years old now, but they're still around