3-d printing parts for older tractors

   / 3-d printing parts for older tractors #1  

rossetal

New member
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
6
Location
Apex, NC
Tractor
Kubota B2910
I have a B2910 purchased new back in the day. Parts are getting difficult to find now. The plastic locking nut on the adjustable steering column broke, and I am thinking of printing one on a 3-d printer. Has anyone done something like this, and if so, what king of filament do you use?
 
   / 3-d printing parts for older tractors #2  
I have a B2910 purchased new back in the day. Parts are getting difficult to find now. The plastic locking nut on the adjustable steering column broke, and I am thinking of printing one on a 3-d printer. Has anyone done something like this, and if so, what king of filament do you use?


have you ever printed before? for an outside item, PETG is recommended due to UV protection, if you need something printed, I can print stuff for a fee, do you have a link to the STL file?
 
   / 3-d printing parts for older tractors
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks, I haven’t created the STL file yet. I have a printer, so I’m able to print it. I was thinking maybe ABS or nylon. Do you think PETG is better for this application?
 
   / 3-d printing parts for older tractors #4  
i am somewhat new to printing, and personally I don't see anything positive about ABS, seems like a pain to print, and doesn't seem like there is any advantage over petg, nylon seems better in a wear situation like being used as a gear, but honestly for your application, i doubt it really matters.

if your comfortable printing in either of them, i am reading nylon is stronger in smaller pieces so i would go with that
 
   / 3-d printing parts for older tractors #5  
ABS is typically a go-to plastice for outdoor use. It is UV resistant and unaffected by most chemicals. Nylon will warp and turn yellow soon. Google uses for ABS to see that automotive uses it alot.
 
   / 3-d printing parts for older tractors #6  
ABS is typically a go-to plastice for outdoor use. It is UV resistant and unaffected by most chemicals. Nylon will warp and turn yellow soon. Google uses for ABS to see that automotive uses it alot.
yea looking this up, if its abs vs nylon, abs is the way to go
 
   / 3-d printing parts for older tractors #7  
A locking nut sounds like there will be some torque/stress on the plastic component. Try it if you wish but 3D printed parts from consumer printers seldom produce parts that will stand up to much stress, especially if it's threads that will be subject to stress loading/unloading cycles. Perhaps better to insert a metal nut into the plastic knob.
 
   / 3-d printing parts for older tractors #8  
A locking nut sounds like there will be some torque/stress on the plastic component. Try it if you wish but 3D printed parts from consumer printers seldom produce parts that will stand up to much stress, especially if it's threads that will be subject to stress loading/unloading cycles. Perhaps better to insert a metal nut into the plastic knob.
I would try it, I have printed a vice threads and all, and it has impressive strength if the thread is large enough.

i don't know if you saw my actuator post, but I am doing over 30 pounds with PETG. stuff is strong if you can make it large enough
 
   / 3-d printing parts for older tractors #9  
You can 3D print a solid part, a hollow part or anywhere in-between. The best part about them is that they tend to stay put when put in a slight bind.

The idea of using a steel nut is worth considering but I would think that through before changing materials and think about the application. Sometimes parts are made to be the weak link so something more costly doesn't break. And sometimes, the manufacturer is just cheap but you will figure that out.
 
   / 3-d printing parts for older tractors #10  
I would try it, I have printed a vice threads and all, and it has impressive strength if the thread is large enough.

i don't know if you saw my actuator post, but I am doing over 30 pounds with PETG. stuff is strong if you can make it large enough
Haven't seen your post and will not deny your results but I've seen results and failures that I cannot deny either. It's all about the application and I don't know what the OP situation is but thought the thread size would be under 5/16 and torqued as a pinch clamp on the steering. I just wanted to suggest something that won't end in failure. Would like to read your actuator post if you'd care to post a link. I'm always up for changing my opinion.
 
   / 3-d printing parts for older tractors #11  
Haven't seen your post and will not deny your results but I've seen results and failures that I cannot deny either. It's all about the application and I don't know what the OP situation is but thought the thread size would be under 5/16 and torqued as a pinch clamp on the steering. I just wanted to suggest something that won't end in failure. Would like to read your actuator post if you'd care to post a link. I'm always up for changing my opinion.
i agree, some places it doesn't work, like small screws etc. to be honest when i first got this thing, i thought it would be more of a toy. I have been unbelievably impressed with the parts coming out of it.

my post
 
   / 3-d printing parts for older tractors
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Haven't seen your post and will not deny your results but I've seen results and failures that I cannot deny either. It's all about the application and I don't know what the OP situation is but thought the thread size would be under 5/16 and torqued as a pinch clamp on the steering. I just wanted to suggest something that won't end in failure. Would like to read your actuator post if you'd care to post a link. I'm always up for changing my opinion.

The original part was plastic and cracked into 2 pieces after about 15 years. I epoxied it back together and it lasted for a few years before it cracked again and fell off somewhere in the pasture. It’s a fairly coarse thread, and about 1-1/2” I.d., but I have to remember to take some calipers out to the tractor shed to measure it. It would be nice if there were dimensions specified for parts, but that almost never happens. I’ll probably try a test print with PLA filament to get the size dialed in before I do a final print.
 
   / 3-d printing parts for older tractors #13  
The original part was plastic and cracked into 2 pieces after about 15 years. I epoxied it back together and it lasted for a few years before it cracked again and fell off somewhere in the pasture. It’s a fairly coarse thread, and about 1-1/2” I.d., but I have to remember to take some calipers out to the tractor shed to measure it. It would be nice if there were dimensions specified for parts, but that almost never happens. I’ll probably try a test print with PLA filament to get the size dialed in before I do a final print.

Well if the thread is that large then a printed part may well hold up to the torque needed. I just don't have a lot of faith in plastic when it's under stress of any sort, I've machined a LOT of it for various components. I could be wrong here about it and welcome the opportunity to be proven wrong. You (we) will only know for sure if you try it and report back (photo hint...), good luck.
 

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