New Holland/Ford 555E engine oil issues

[Flad]

As for the diluted oil, don't guess don't stuff around, take a sample and have it tested, there are lots of oil testing services around like a Cat Dealer Detroit, Cummings, etc, They will tell you exactly where the contamination or dilution stems from, also they can give you a clue as to the condition of your bearings rings etc. Worth the cost.

As for the electrical problem, REMOVE the ground cable clean the ends around where it bolts to the motor some machines have two ground cables, Next Do you have a huge bunch of keys hanging from the ignition switch? this can destroy the contacts in the ignition switch and has been the cause of many sudden and re- occuring faults.
Do the simple stuff first.

 

[chetmyr1ck]

I have the exact same backhoe. I did not go back and read all the pages leading up to this one. It has been a year since I worked on the fuel/electrical and I am on travel and can't get to the 555E to look. My hoe had a problem where it would crank but not start. The problem was the electrically operated solenoid that permits fuel to go into the injector pump has a rubber or neoprene tip that was sticking and the solenoid did not have enough power to pull it away from the seal. Replaced the solenoid and all was well. Your problem appears to me that you are loosing power to that solenoid while it is running and it dies. Since the hoe will not crank or click the starter solenoid, you are probably loosing power from the battery via the fuse or relay panel. I have all the schematics, parts list, and parts break down but the book is huge. I won't be home for a month or I would pdf some of the electrical stuff. Are you familiar with electrical troubleshooting with a meter or just a simple test lamp? You might start by wiggling fuses and relays while holding the key over to the start position. I don't think any of them are bad or it would never start. Remember that the key has to return to OFF after trying it in the start position one time.

 

[950deerehunter]

You might have two separate but related issues.
1: Sounds like you have no power beyond your starter. Could be a blown fusible link wire or fuse in line from the starter solenoid to the ignition switch. If you have voltage at battery cable at starter that eliminates bad ground wire. With switch on you should have power to the fuse panel.
2: Is with the fuel shutoff solenoid. It is either losing power or defective. There should be about a 5 amp fuse in the fuse panel that feeds that feeds this. I just replaced one that was intermittent. Tractor would crank but not start. No voltage to the fuel shutoff solenoid. Like "chetmyr1ck" said this is a plunger valve at the inlet of the fuel injection pump (looks like a sensor with one wire to it, should have 12v when switch is on). I ran a wire directly from the battery to the solenoid terminal and the tractor started right up. removed jumper wire and tractor ran fine for several minutes the quit. The 5 amp fuse in fuse panel had blown. Replaced with same and immediately blew again. Replaced with 10 amp fuse and it blew. Went back to the jumper wire and tractor stated right up but then I noticed smoke rolling from the solenoid. Replaced solenoid and all was well even with a 5 amp fuse.

Your bad solenoid may have blown your fuse from starter to key switch. As a very brief bypass fix try the jumper to fuel shutoff solenoid then jump starter solenoid battery to small wire. Tractor should at least turn over (careful, all safeties bypassed. Be in neutral). The solenoids are cheap, replace it.

 

[EddieWalker]

I found the master link today and the fuse was blown. It was still all in there, but definitely blown. There is a middle square that was hanging in place. I'm guessing that it somehow made contact again, so I had power to start it after it blew, but then came loose after I was using it.

When I touched it, the middle section just disinigrated.

I put the new link in place and my backhoe fired right up.

Thank you for the advice and taking the time to help. It turned out to be an easy fix. Hopefully it doesn't happen again!!!

Now I need to monitor the oil and see what happens. I have brand new oil and a filter in it now.

Once the mud dries out, I'll test it out.

 

[950deerehunter]

The question still remains why did the fusible link fail?

Thanks for responding with your outcome. So many times an thread just stops without a conclusion.

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm wondering that too. Since it's something that I've never dealt with before, I'm hoping it was more age related then electrical, but Murphy's Law will show itself soon enough. The original link has lasted since 1998, so maybe I'll get lucky?

 

[ovrszd]

The question still remains why did the fusible link fail?

Thanks for responding with your outcome. So many times an thread just stops without a conclusion.

Eddie has experienced threads with unanswered solutions. I knew he'd keep us updated. Thanks Eddie.

I agree, the link is probably going to fail again.

 

[ovrszd]

I'm wondering that too. Since it's something that I've never dealt with before, I'm hoping it was more age related then electrical, but Murphy's Law will show itself soon enough. The original link has lasted since 1998, so maybe I'll get lucky?

I hope so Eddie. This is an example of why you never want to over ride a fuse. Some guys might have "hot wired" around the fuse. That would be a bad idea....

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm going to order another fusable link. Odds are good that I'll need it

 

[950deerehunter]

I hope so Eddie. This is an example of why you never want to over ride a fuse. Some guys might have "hot wired" around the fuse. That would be a bad idea....

I wasn't suggesting hot wiring around the fuse except "very briefly" as a trouble shooting tool. Check your fuse panel and make sure someone hasn't jumper the fuel shutoff fuse(5 amp). If this or any fuse in panel has been jumped then the master fuse is next in line.