Billrog
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Fused link for your machine part no 12393149
$ 7.45If its blown elec will be dead
New Holland/Ford 555E engine oil issues
- Thread starter EddieWalker
- Start date
- Views: 19484
If its blown elec will be dead
Billrog
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ROUSTABOUT
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It's not an inline fuse if it's a fusible link. It's just a piece of wire. Sometimes it breaks inside the insulation. So unless you feel along the wire you won't find it. Should be near starter solenoid area. I've never replaced one. Just the the wires together and continue on. Old trucks had them too.
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Thank you. I'll look for this. Is it safe to assume that if it's blown, I should have power on one side, and nothing on the other?
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I put in the model number and came up with this. Does this look right? I've never seen one before. I'm guessing that it's the metal part that goes into a fuse. I've bought lots of stuff from Messicks, so I'll order it now since it's so cheap. If it's not bad, hopefully I wont lose it if I ever need it in the future.
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www.messicks.com
ovrszd
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As for the electrical issue. It's not a blown fuse, once blown they can't revive themselves. Sounds more like a connection issue somewhere.
I'm still not sure what you are describing. Theory 1, engine dies, turns over when you try to restart, but won't run. Theory 2, engine dies, won't turn over or do anything until it cools off.
Theory 1. Lou talked about how to check the fuel solenoid on the pump. Educate yourself as to what that solenoid does. It moves the fuel shutoff lever on the pump. Learn which way is the run position when you have the engine running. Then when the engine dies look at the fuel lever. If it's not in the run position, fasten it in the correct position with a piece of wire, zip tie, whatever. Then restart engine. If successful then do electrical checks to see if the solenoid is getting hot and shutting off the system or if the tractor wiring is the problem and losing connection.
Theory 2. This one is a ***** to search. could be as far back as the ignition switch is losing power during operation. This theory is gonna suck.
As to a wiring diagram. Amongst those pdf manuals I sent you is a wiring diagram. With much thought and studying that diagram you can figure out where to look for the problem.
Also among those manuals look for troubleshooting section. Probably in the WSM.
As for the oil situation. Are you having to ever add power steering fluid? These tractors are notorious for an oil leak at the main shaft seal in the power steering pump. This dumps fluid into the crankcase.
Also these engines run extremely "dirty". Mine will turn the oil midnight black after a couple hours of running when changed to new oil.
Let us know how this turns out.
I'm still not sure what you are describing. Theory 1, engine dies, turns over when you try to restart, but won't run. Theory 2, engine dies, won't turn over or do anything until it cools off.
Theory 1. Lou talked about how to check the fuel solenoid on the pump. Educate yourself as to what that solenoid does. It moves the fuel shutoff lever on the pump. Learn which way is the run position when you have the engine running. Then when the engine dies look at the fuel lever. If it's not in the run position, fasten it in the correct position with a piece of wire, zip tie, whatever. Then restart engine. If successful then do electrical checks to see if the solenoid is getting hot and shutting off the system or if the tractor wiring is the problem and losing connection.
Theory 2. This one is a ***** to search. could be as far back as the ignition switch is losing power during operation. This theory is gonna suck.
As to a wiring diagram. Amongst those pdf manuals I sent you is a wiring diagram. With much thought and studying that diagram you can figure out where to look for the problem.
Also among those manuals look for troubleshooting section. Probably in the WSM.
As for the oil situation. Are you having to ever add power steering fluid? These tractors are notorious for an oil leak at the main shaft seal in the power steering pump. This dumps fluid into the crankcase.
Also these engines run extremely "dirty". Mine will turn the oil midnight black after a couple hours of running when changed to new oil.
Let us know how this turns out.
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Thank you for the PDF manuals!!!
I probably haven't been clear and I was thinking that one thing caused another thing. But now I'm thinking that the oil issue has nothing to do with the electrical issue.
Saturday, I was using the backhoe and it was all normal. Then all of a sudden, while backing up for another load of dirt, it just died on me. It was in reverse, I was moving along, and then, nothing. My first thought was that there was a kill switch on the engine to stop it from destroying itself from being too hot or no oil. I've seen this on newer vehicles, but just assumed it might be on my 1998 backhoe.
Sunday morning, it fired right up. I moved it to my shop and parked it.
Monday, I cleaned the radiator, tightened the fan belt and topped it off with water. It wasn't low, but I filled up the overflow container all the way.
I then loaded one bucket of dirt, spread it and got another bucket full. I dumped it, and was about to back drag it when it died on me. I was in reverse.
If it's not the fusible link, I'm wondering if it's the forward/reverse lever. If it's in forward or reverse, it will not start and everything is dead. I never tried turning on the lights or testing anything when it wouldn't start because I left it in forward or reverse, I just put it in the neutral position, and it fired up.
If that's loose, or has become broken, that might explain why it started up on Sunday after dying. I agree that if it's a fuse, it should not have started up again on Sunday. But I'm desperate enough to imagine that maybe the fuse wasn't all the way broken and there was just enough of it left to start on Sunday and again on Monday, but then it came apart all the way. Crazy, but that's where I'm at.
The solenoid on the injector pump does not have a lever on it. To me, it looks more like a temperature sensor, or eclectic oil pressure sensor. That is the only thing that has a wire going to it. I could be wrong, and it could be a sensor. I'll look again, but I didn't see anything else that looks like a lever. My other tractors all have levers on them that move to start or stop the engine. I'm guessing that this solenoid goes in and out to turn it on and off. And that it's all internal. I might remove it to make sure. Or I'll keep looking at the manual and see if I can make sense of it.
It's raining/sleeting and maybe snowing today and the next couple of days, so I doubt that I will mess with it until the weather gets better. We are going from 80 degrees one day, to 40 the next day right now.
I probably haven't been clear and I was thinking that one thing caused another thing. But now I'm thinking that the oil issue has nothing to do with the electrical issue.
Saturday, I was using the backhoe and it was all normal. Then all of a sudden, while backing up for another load of dirt, it just died on me. It was in reverse, I was moving along, and then, nothing. My first thought was that there was a kill switch on the engine to stop it from destroying itself from being too hot or no oil. I've seen this on newer vehicles, but just assumed it might be on my 1998 backhoe.
Sunday morning, it fired right up. I moved it to my shop and parked it.
Monday, I cleaned the radiator, tightened the fan belt and topped it off with water. It wasn't low, but I filled up the overflow container all the way.
I then loaded one bucket of dirt, spread it and got another bucket full. I dumped it, and was about to back drag it when it died on me. I was in reverse.
If it's not the fusible link, I'm wondering if it's the forward/reverse lever. If it's in forward or reverse, it will not start and everything is dead. I never tried turning on the lights or testing anything when it wouldn't start because I left it in forward or reverse, I just put it in the neutral position, and it fired up.
If that's loose, or has become broken, that might explain why it started up on Sunday after dying. I agree that if it's a fuse, it should not have started up again on Sunday. But I'm desperate enough to imagine that maybe the fuse wasn't all the way broken and there was just enough of it left to start on Sunday and again on Monday, but then it came apart all the way. Crazy, but that's where I'm at.
The solenoid on the injector pump does not have a lever on it. To me, it looks more like a temperature sensor, or eclectic oil pressure sensor. That is the only thing that has a wire going to it. I could be wrong, and it could be a sensor. I'll look again, but I didn't see anything else that looks like a lever. My other tractors all have levers on them that move to start or stop the engine. I'm guessing that this solenoid goes in and out to turn it on and off. And that it's all internal. I might remove it to make sure. Or I'll keep looking at the manual and see if I can make sense of it.
It's raining/sleeting and maybe snowing today and the next couple of days, so I doubt that I will mess with it until the weather gets better. We are going from 80 degrees one day, to 40 the next day right now.
ovrszd
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I'm still a bit confused. So when it dies, the engine won't turn over or do anything? Then later it will start? Or when it dies, the engine will turn over but not run?
My old 555A uses a mechanical cable operated pull knob to kill the fuel. Was hoping that maybe they used the lever style pump and simply added a solenoid rather than the old style cable?
ThepumpguySC would know for sure. Maybe he'll see this and chime in.
He would also know how to check the solenoid. Or how to "hotwire" it to overcome a loss of power to it. It would be "power on run", "power off die". So it your system is losing power to the solenoid that would cause it to die. A "hotwire" could check that.
My old 555A uses a mechanical cable operated pull knob to kill the fuel. Was hoping that maybe they used the lever style pump and simply added a solenoid rather than the old style cable?
ThepumpguySC would know for sure. Maybe he'll see this and chime in.
He would also know how to check the solenoid. Or how to "hotwire" it to overcome a loss of power to it. It would be "power on run", "power off die". So it your system is losing power to the solenoid that would cause it to die. A "hotwire" could check that.
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
When it dies, it's very sudden. When I turn the key, absolutely nothing happens. No clicking, no lights come on, and I cant get anything else to work, like the lights. It's like a blew a fuse between the battery and everything else.
The battery reads 12.68 volts. I put a jumper on it to see if it needed more power, but nothing happened. That didnt make sense to me, but I did it anyway.
The first time it happened, it fires right up the next day. I started it a few times without issue. But then I did a little work with it and it died on me again. Also while in reverse. Since then, it has remained totally dead.
The battery cable goes directly to the starter. I cannot find any power after that. At least I havent found anything yet.
The battery reads 12.68 volts. I put a jumper on it to see if it needed more power, but nothing happened. That didnt make sense to me, but I did it anyway.
The first time it happened, it fires right up the next day. I started it a few times without issue. But then I did a little work with it and it died on me again. Also while in reverse. Since then, it has remained totally dead.
The battery cable goes directly to the starter. I cannot find any power after that. At least I havent found anything yet.
Billrog
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I'm not sure the fusable link is the elec. problem in your case. I was at a loss when everything was dead on my tractor & spent a wk. to track the problem and location . I had no computer to reseach with.
