Battery terminals

[denjen]

Thought I would post this as an FYI to check battery terminals. I had an issue when i turned on tractor the tach and temp needles started bouncing around and the hour meter went dead. It was a bad ground and found both battery terminals being eaten through. I honestly ignored them when checking tractor out.

 

[K5lwq]

Good post. Bad connections is more often than not the problem with electrical issues.

 

[treefarmerguy]

Had the same thing happen to a Kubota L5030. With the loader on it took me several hours to get to it and replace after some modification to a new clamp.

 

[Thomas]

Also the ground to frame can be issue.

 

[5030]

Looks to ne like pizz poor maintenace, just like the high resistance crimp on connector that is also most likely eaten up.

I never have issues like that. My posts and clamps are always cleaned properly and coated with di-electric grease.

 

[Branson Bob]

Thought I would post this as an FYI to check battery terminals. I had an issue when i turned on tractor the tach and temp needles started bouncing around and the hour meter went dead. It was a bad ground and found both battery terminals being eaten through. I honestly ignored them when checking tractor out.

Curious as to what year the tractor is and if the battery had ever been previously changed. Thanks!

 

[denjen]

Branson Bob, the tractor is 2019 and purchased new. Uh, 5030, yes I own up to ignoring the terminals and they are fixed properly now; but don't not a fan of the attitude.

 

[ptsg]

denjen, please excuse our resident troll... It's like he has too much free time or something...

I'm not that much fan of this style of battery terminal, although I've never had any issues with those, but definitely something to keep in mind. Thanks for the remainder on checking the terminals.

My sister's car had a OEM battery that for some reason would eat through the Negative battery terminals. No matter how clean and protected with dielectric grease it was, it would keep on corroding the terminal. Replaced that battery a year or so ago and never had any issues. This old battery is now on my generator and still does the same exact thing. I just have to keep an eye on it.

 

[denjen]

ptsg, no worries and agree not a fan of that style, so went with the older style and modified it. I can't believe how thin those new style are, probably cheaper to manufacturer. Branson Bob, sorry the battery is the original.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Denjen,

Don't worry, that particular troll seldom slithers this far down the forums. He must be feeling neglected and need some extra attention.

Glad to see you found and fixed the problem.

So far my terminals haven't had that issue, but my OEM battery died in the first winter. My replacement battery doesn't out-gas, so my terminals stay clean.

 

[Chilliwack Murray]

In power gen service we use a light coating of fluid film on battery terminals.

Serviced annually, clamps usually last 20+ years on emergency generators however they don’t see any road salt or weather.

 

[rScotty]

For some reason - probably to save a few bucks - the manufacturers all use the old technology wet cell batteries.

There is an easy fix for all battery connection problems. Next time you buy a battery, buy a sealed AGM type.
It's the same voltage, same size, same chemistry..... but it doesn't outgas or fume or splatter. No acid. You don't need to coat the terminals with anything. They won't corrode and neither will the cables or nearby components. Cables and battery boxes that have only seen AGMs will last the life of the tractor.

The initial cost for an AGM battery is about 30 to 50% higher than the wet cell type of battery, but they last a little longer than the extra cost so you come out ahead there too.
luck,
rScotty

 

[ericm979]

If a battery is out gassing a lot there is something wrong such as being overcharged by a bad regulator.

Also if the battery has a vent make sure there's a hose attached and it runs somewhere safe.

 

[rScotty]

Just switch to AGM type battery. No more corrosion problems, they are better batteries, and ultimately save money.

 

[Gregster613]

rScotty, I do not disagree with you about AGM being a better choice but, don't you also need a special battery charger for that type of battery? If so, factor in the cost of another charger - along with the 50% higher battery cost and that can build up to a "large" chunk of change.

 

[rScotty]

rScotty, I do not disagree with you about AGM being a better choice but, don't you also need a special battery charger for that type of battery? If so, factor in the cost of another charger - along with the 50% higher battery cost and that can build up to a "large" chunk of change.

Yes, for AGM - which is still the exact same lead/acid chemistry - there are special chargers which will charge the battery to its max effiency, but in actuality you don't need them. A standard battery charger comes within a few percent of the same charge. So in any vehicle or tractor I doubt that you will be able to tell the difference when either the flooded or AGM batteries are new. You won't even know. Now as they age, the AGM loses efficency more slowly and a year or so down the line it tends to pull ahead in retained charge even though it isn't being charged to its max.

Here's the kicker: None of this about AGMs being better has to be true! Technically it isn't true. There are companies that manufacture a flooded cell battery that is just as good or better than the AGM. And it is serviceable. You see them in off grid energy storage sources and some specialized industrial use like hard tire forklifts. Those use excellent flooded cell batteries. It's just that the automotive/truck/tractor market doesn't make those extremely good flooded cell batteries that we can use in our small lightweight high vibration applications.
With cars, trucks, and tractors flooded cells are not as high quality. we lose because we have to trade off for vibration, weight and profit.

 

[SandburRanch]

Looks to ne like pizz poor maintenace, just like the high resistance crimp on connector that is also most likely eaten up.

I never have issues like that. My posts and clamps are always cleaned properly and coated with di-electric grease.

Please enlighten me on the proper procedure of cleaning battery posts and clamps . I've always used my trusty pocket knife and scraped that hard lead oxide until they shined like a diamond in a goat's ass .
That's the procedure i used to get a farmer friend in the field around 10:00am when he wanted to be there at daylight . Only after he'd been to town 20 miles away and spent 85 bucks for a key switch .

 

[rScotty]

Please enlighten me on the proper procedure of cleaning battery posts and clamps . I've always used my trusty pocket knife and scraped that hard lead oxide until they shined like a diamond in a goat's ass .
That's the procedure i used to get a farmer friend in the field around 10:00am when he wanted to be there at daylight . Only after he'd been to town 20 miles away and spent 85 bucks for a key switch .

Just drive a small finish nail between the battery post and clamp. That will get you home.

 

[5030]

Please enlighten me on the proper procedure of cleaning battery posts and clamps . I've always used my trusty pocket knife and scraped that hard lead oxide until they shined like a diamond in a goat's ass .
That's the procedure i used to get a farmer friend in the field around 10:00am when he wanted to be there at daylight . Only after he'd been to town 20 miles away and spent 85 bucks for a key switch .

Here you go, I think you can afford one....

• 
  PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE
  Battery Terminal Cleaner
  
  (947)
  $2.99
  

  ​

  In-Store Only

 

[SandburRanch]

Here you go, I think you can afford one....

• 
  PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE
  Battery Terminal Cleaner
  
  (947)
  $2.99
  

  ​

  In-Store Only

Yes i could afford one , but where is it ? I always know where my knife is . Handy in my pocket .