That’s what I used tooMy first fluid change on my DK4510 was similar. Broke a new strap wrench, a different on slipped. Finally went and got a pair of Channellock filter pliers and that was that.
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That’s what I used tooMy first fluid change on my DK4510 was similar. Broke a new strap wrench, a different on slipped. Finally went and got a pair of Channellock filter pliers and that was that.
View attachment 739146
Actually, not. The filters are installed prior to final chassis paint and the painted filter locks it on. Real common. I never bother with a filter wrench, put a pan under the filter, take a long handled alignment punch, drive it through the body and lever it off. Been doing it that way on every new tractor I've purchased for years now. Once you change it, the next one will come off easily. The paint is holding it on, nothing else.
I to own a filter wrench similar but it's not Channelock, I can't imagine a chain wrench slipping, if you set it up near where it's screwed on it will bite, I use a cheater with that long handle of a chain wrench, come or blead.I discovered those were the only thing that could reach in past the rats-nest of loader hoses to loosen the fuel filter bowl ring on my Yanmar.
Maybe that works on Deeres, and if you have room for a strap style wrench you are lucky.I to own a filter wrench similar but it's not Channelock, I can't imagine a chain wrench slipping, if you set it up near where it's screwed on it will bite, I use a cheater with that long handle of a chain wrench, come or blead.
I'd like a torque spec. Can't find one in the manualThe charge filters are always a bear if installed correctly.
Some years ago my wife wanted a Saab. She like more uncommon cars. We had to drive quite far to demo it. Took my first Toyota Tundra, maybe a 2001 (??). We immediately gave up on the Saab after realizing the Tundra rode better than the Saab and was nicer to drive. A reflection of both vehicles.My idiot ex wife wanted a Saab. She thought they looked cool. It drove all right, could go like a bat out of hell.
I had to do the water pump.
To access the water pump, required I drop the tranny and lift the engine. Yah, for the water pump.
It would only accept one model of Continental tires ( the most expensive model).
I got rid of that car with the witch.
I'd like a torque spec. Can't find one in the manual
So the filter spec of 'snug then 3/4 turn' (etc) is a shorthand way of describing how much compression is intended. No need for a torque spec.measure the thread pitch of the mount and compare that with the height of the uncompressed rubber ring. That will give an idea of how much compression that the replacement filter is designed for.

Interesting designs. I looked thru most of their website and didn't see a location or contact phone, only an email type "contact us", which I'm leery of.I’m telling you guys, where all others have failed, this wrench did not. Not only can you get it into the tightest of spaces, but you don’t have to mess with running a punch/screwdriver through the filter and risk having the filter break.
This filter wrench worked where the cup style and even the spring style wrench. I liked it so much I bought a second smaller one for working on cars/trucks.
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https://www.jm3oilfilterwrench.com/collections/all
They are JM3. I met them out at SEMA in Vegas. They had a booth set up and were demonstrating their new product. After trying it out and hearing that they were making all different sizes to accommodate vehicles with small oil filters all the way up to XL filters on turbo Diesel engines I knew there would be one that fit my tractor and one for my truck.Interesting designs. I looked thru most of their website and didn't see a location or contact phone, only an email type "contact us", which I'm leery of.
Where are they?
I’m telling you guys, where all others have failed, this wrench did not. Not only can you get it into the tightest of spaces, but you don’t have to mess with running a punch/screwdriver through the filter and risk having the filter break.
This filter wrench worked where the cup style and even the spring style wrench. I liked it so much I bought a second smaller one for working on cars/trucks.
View attachment 741751
https://www.jm3oilfilterwrench.com/collections/all
That’s the thing. You don’t need leverage. The tool does all the work for you. The spring assisted design breaks the filter free when it engages loosening it up to then be removed by hand.Hmmm.....interesting design, but seems to have the same problem as so many of the "solutions" have, which is they only work for filters where the body of the filter is accessible from the side. And also there needs to be room for your hand. Lots of filters don't have that kind of accessibilty.
On the type of wrench you have pictured, how do you attach a long bar for the required leverage?
rScotty
Take a look at the video I posted earlier in this thread. You will get a better idea as to how it works with regards to the “required leverage”. I was totally skeptical as well, hence the previous story where it was put to the test.Hmmm.....interesting design, but seems to have the same problem as so many of the "solutions" have, which is they only work for filters where the body of the filter is accessible from the side. And also there needs to be room for your hand. Lots of filters don't have that kind of accessibilty.
On the type of wrench you have pictured, how do you attach a long bar for the required leverage?
rScotty