Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder

   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #41  
I have heard about the magnifying lens. Have you used ? Curious to know what the focal length is ? If it helps at say a 18" or so distance, this would help greatly - for me.
I'm farsighted. I got a 1.5 multiplier lens for my helmet, via Ebay. Too strong. My face was down in the cloud of flux-core smoke. Second attempt: 1.25. Quite satisfactory but it seems like a little less, maybe 1.2, would be perfect.

Look inside your helmet. Any decent helmet has slots to slide in a standard multiplier lens, they're about 1.5" x 3.5".
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #42  
Reading glasses should do it. ...
I tried that, cheap dimestore magnifiers, but I need the anti-stigmatism correction in my eyeglasses to see precisely enough for welding.

Just recently I decided to check out Zenni optical, a low cost mailorder glasses company. I bought 'readers' with my anti-stigmatism prescription, about $40. Quality seems excellent.

So I ordered another pair of prescription glasses for shop use: Their heaviest cheap frame ($10) with 'standard' (much thicker) lenses, then the side 'safety glasses' add-on, shields off the left and right sides that go back to my face. Total under $50 for glasses I'm not concerned about scratching and while they're not real safety glasses, the heavier construction has to be better than ordinary eyeglasses at resisting thrown wire-brush needles, welding sparks, grinder sparks. Also for protecting my eyes when harvesting apples, when I'm up on the ladder making a long reach with my face jammed into twigs and leaves. Well worth under $50. These glasses (that I can wear all day) plus the 1.25 magnifier in my helmet make welding much easier.
 
Last edited:
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #43  
I need something like that. I have some glasses from the VA but I haven't tried them out.
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #44  
As to cheater lenses for welding, it really makes an amazing difference in being able to see the puddle. I used cheaters for welding long before I used them for reading. I use a different diopter lens for stick work than I do for TIG work as my distance for where my head/eyes is significantly closer for TIG thus I need a higher lens strength than for Stick. Whether you use cheaters on your head or in your helmet is your choice I find it is easier on my head but everyone is different. I also have turned down the shade which I find helps and so far it does not seem to cause flash blindness or eye pain post welding.
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #45  
Roustabout. I know you are RIGHT ! I actually may end up doing just that - keep the Miller Stick and practice more. For a lot of my "known projects" which, are arbors / fence sections, I may try brazing ? Do not know a lot about this process either.
I have "real" troubles with Stick however. The single biggest issue (being a novice) is actually when I start to weld. With a full size rod, I lose control, and cannot see very well - if that makes sense ? If I get my head closer where I can see, then my hand is above my head, which is difficult. I know, practice, practice.... Once the rod burns down, it is Much easier for me. Cut all rods to 1/2 length... :) ?
I have used a MIG a total of 1 time. But, could get right on top of the work, so it was "easy for me to see what I was doing / see the puddle". That, and the "easier, so they say" to weld thinner metal is the reason I was considering a MIG, with the Everlast i-Mig 200 having the bonus of running on 110v, also having stick capability. Planning for retirement this year, so this adds a little- "get what I think I am going to use before retirement" ? Or perhaps, it is "I want a new toy".:cool:
So, I am one of those people who go to buy a computer, but do not "KNOW" everything I am going to use it for. So, I run some "what if's" and eventually decide to buy more capability than what I think I "need". Not quite apples to apples, but just a general thought process.

So, with a torch and coat hanger.... I would call that a brazing "type" job ? I don't have any real torch, just a hand-help map gas.
Brazing is a good process for things that experience viration since it stretches better than steel. Also cast iron can be repaired by braze (or nickle rod with the stick welder). have done it both ways. It is not stronger than a weld but has its place. An acetylene torch is worth having and the heat up period to cut or braze - or weld with a steel filler rod is faster than it is with map. Brazing is also better for things that need to be leakproof. A torch would also give opportunity for silver solder (similar to braze but works good on stainless steel) and the ability to cut steel. Lots of good reasons to have a torch. I have heard of folks welding with a coat hanger and in a pinch it will do but the steel filler roads are a better alloy for welding. I agree with those telling you to keep the stick although the wire feed is easier to use. One trick for stick wleding is to hold the stinger with your dominant hand and then hold the wrist of that hand with the other hand while keeping your elbows in contact with your body - this gives better control over a brand new (long) rod that shakes more. Not always possible but with some practice youll get better. Good luck with it
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #46  
Amateur, working with what's available:

The couple of times I've welded cast iron with nickel rod and an old AC buzzbox, I heated the object over the burner that came with a turkey fryer. Plenty of BTU's! Then peening, and gradual cooldown still using that burner, on low.

Several years later those welds on the fragile feet of old cast iron lawn furniture, are still good.
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #47  
If you are having trouble seeing where your weld bead is going, and you have AD helmet try turning shade down a little, try 2 diopter cheater lenses in helmet and add a lot of ambient light to where you are trying to weld....

I find adding head lamp like in image below for old tired eyes....

View attachment 736414

Image stolen for internet source a long time ago....
That light on the helmet is an excellent idea! I wish I had thought of that years ago. I have old eyes that need more light. Sometimes it is hard to get enough light when welding. Seems weird because of all the light coming from the arc. But there it is. You adjust the auto darkening lens for the arc itself or choose the right fixed shade lens for the arc and then you can't see the work.
I, like many others, have resorted to work lights placed accordingly. But with modern LED technology a head mounted light can be bright enough while at the same time be small and light enough (a light light!) to work very well AND follow your head.
I will be looking tonight for a light to mount on my welding hoods. Thanks for posting this.
Cheers,
Eric
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #48  
Brazing is a good process for things that experience viration since it stretches better than steel. Also cast iron can be repaired by braze (or nickle rod with the stick welder). have done it both ways. It is not stronger than a weld but has its place. An acetylene torch is worth having and the heat up period to cut or braze - or weld with a steel filler rod is faster than it is with map. Brazing is also better for things that need to be leakproof. A torch would also give opportunity for silver solder (similar to braze but works good on stainless steel) and the ability to cut steel. Lots of good reasons to have a torch. I have heard of folks welding with a coat hanger and in a pinch it will do but the steel filler roads are a better alloy for welding. I agree with those telling you to keep the stick although the wire feed is easier to use. One trick for stick wleding is to hold the stinger with your dominant hand and then hold the wrist of that hand with the other hand while keeping your elbows in contact with your body - this gives better control over a brand new (long) rod that shakes more. Not always possible but with some practice youll get better. Good luck with it
Depending on the brazing alloy used the joint will actually be stronger than if welded. The brazing alloy will actually have a higher tensile strength than the parent metal. This is especially true when brazing cast iron. Even the typical brazing rod sold in hardware stores is stronger than many cast iron types. I know, seems counterintuitive. So don't automatically decide that brazing is not appropriate if strength is an issue.
Eric
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #49  
Depending on the brazing alloy used the joint will actually be stronger than if welded. The brazing alloy will actually have a higher tensile strength than the parent metal. This is especially true when brazing cast iron. Even the typical brazing rod sold in hardware stores is stronger than many cast iron types. I know, seems counterintuitive. So don't automatically decide that brazing is not appropriate if strength is an issue.
Eric
Very true, my welding manual states a good brazing rod can have a 70,000 psi rating were may arc rod are below that....
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #50  
Roustabout. I know you are RIGHT ! I actually may end up doing just that - keep the Miller Stick and practice more. For a lot of my "known projects" which, are arbors / fence sections, I may try brazing ? Do not know a lot about this process either.
I have "real" troubles with Stick however. The single biggest issue (being a novice) is actually when I start to weld. With a full size rod, I lose control, and cannot see very well - if that makes sense ? If I get my head closer where I can see, then my hand is above my head, which is difficult. I know, practice, practice.... Once the rod burns down, it is Much easier for me. Cut all rods to 1/2 length... :) ?
I have used a MIG a total of 1 time. But, could get right on top of the work, so it was "easy for me to see what I was doing / see the puddle". That, and the "easier, so they say" to weld thinner metal is the reason I was considering a MIG, with the Everlast i-Mig 200 having the bonus of running on 110v, also having stick capability. Planning for retirement this year, so this adds a little- "get what I think I am going to use before retirement" ? Or perhaps, it is "I want a new toy".:cool:
So, I am one of those people who go to buy a computer, but do not "KNOW" everything I am going to use it for. So, I run some "what if's" and eventually decide to buy more capability than what I think I "need". Not quite apples to apples, but just a general thought process.

So, with a torch and coat hanger.... I would call that a brazing "type" job ? I don't have any real torch, just a hand-help map gas.
How about a perspective from someone who has been welding for over 50 years, for both fun and profit, and is also proficient in TIG, MIG, though rusty at Stick and Gas?
At age 14 I learned how to gas weld and braze and silver solder, AKA silver braze. That was in 1970. In the early 80s I decided I wanted to learn arc welding so I took night classes, got really good at stick welding and switched to TIG. After a couple years of night classes doing TIG welding the instructor told me I was now skilled enough to pass the "nuclear pipe" tests. He meant that I could apply for a job at a nuclear power plant as a pipe welder and would be able to be certified for welding pipe. This meant that I really didn't need night school to improve my skill. I did not do more than about 1/2 hour MIG welding though.
Then, a little over 20 years ago I bought a small MIG welder, a Lincon SP125 Plus. This machine was a ton of fun to use. I could lay down so much metal so fast. And it was easy! I was laughing as I was welding because it was so much fun.
I knew from talking to welders who did wirefeed welding as a job that it was easy to make bad welds. So I practiced a bunch. From my previous experience with other types of welding I knew how to test welds to make sure they were good welds.
So, after my bona fides posted above, for whatever they are worth, here is my pro and con advice, for whatever it is worth.
STICK: The least expensive. And almost the most versatile. Only TIG is more versatile. The versatility is because there are many different alloys available for stick welding. The inexpensive because the machines are the least expensive. The only process that has more alloys available is TIG. There are also several different stick sizes available, so thick and thin work can be done. Once again, only TIG welding wires come in more sizes. If you need to weld something that requires some less than common alloy you can usually buy only 1 pound of it in stick form.
MIG: First of all I am including both types of wirefeed welding into the MIG class. Wire that requires gas and wire that does not. MIG is not as versatile because there are not as many alloys available. Plus the wire must usually be bought in larger than 1 pound at a time if not a common alloy. So this can be expensive if many different alloys must be used. MIG doesn't require as many different wire sizes because the process doesn't need that many different wire sizes. MIG is also more expensive because the machines are more expensive. And if using a MIG welder with bare wire then a regulator, a flowmeter, and a gas bottle must be added to the price of the welder.
STICK: Stick welding is harder to learn than MIG. There is more technique involved and much of this technique depends on the alloy being used.
MIG: Fast. Fun. Easier to learn but also easier to make bad weld that look good.
STICK: Only the stick is needed. No extra shielding.
MIG: Fast. Fun. If using fluxcore, AKA innershield, then no extra shielding, but if using bare wire then shielding gas must be used, an extra expense.
MIG: When welding sheet metal you can use .023 bare wire with the polarity reversed to get good welds without burning through. Autobody shops use MIG welders like this all the time. Stick welding just can't do this unless the weldor is very skilled.
Now, finally, let's get to the meat of the matter. What do I think is best for you from what you have said. Get a MIG. A wirefeed welder. But one that you can add a gas bottle to down the road if you need or want to. Welding wire that has flux in the core, AKA fluxcore or innershield, is commonly available everywhere in the size you need for the jobs you say you want to do. It does not require a gas bottle. The weld don't look as nice, there is more splatter, but the welds can be done in fairly windy conditions. As your skill increases you will want to start welding with gas. Your welds will look better, there will be less splatter, and there are more alloys available. For example, I bought a spool of silicon bronze wire so I could do some MIG brazing. I needed to braze a lot of steel parts together and my two options were to TIG braze or MIG braze. I was restricted to silicon bronze brazing alloy by the customer. This is a common alloy. I chose MIG brazing because it was so much faster than TIG brazing. And the joints were beautiful.
You will need to practice to make sure your good looking welds are actually good welds. So you will need to break the welds. You will need to observe where and how the welds broke. You will need to be honest with yourself about the quality of your welds. Just like anything else practice is important to doing a good job. MIG welding has the unfortunate ability of being able to look good without actually being good. So you need to practice and test your welds.
But, finally, at the end of the day, MIG welding, AKA wirefeed welding, is faster than stick and is just plain fun. Once you are good enough to make welds that you trust you will find that it is just plain fun to get the metal squirt gun out and weld stuff up. If you need to build up the worn edge of that bucket get out the welder and just lay down metal. No problems with the electrode sticking like with stick welding. No changing stick electrodes. No worries about the flux coating breaking off and then getting porosity in the weld. And so on.
Cheers,
Eric
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #51  
New toys are fun when you can afford them but you've said you are on a budget. That coupled with indesisions on what kind of work you will primarly do is reason for keeping the stick for now. Try 3/32 7014 rods on some thin metal. The rod restart's without busting slag so you can tack-skip-tack-skip to avoid warp and burn through on thin sheet metal. It's difficult to stick 7014 so they will work while you train muscle memory, control and coordination. Putting a cotton cloth "curtain" on back of hood will help you see better. It's hard doing much without oxy/fuel torch so I suggest that might be your next purchase. Oxygen/propane will do everything acetylene will EXCEPT WELD,but very few people gas weld even if they have the means. One 20 pound grill bottle of propane will last longer than $150 worth acetylene for cutting,heat & bend,braze and solder. I built an air/propane burner-torch from scrap for heating large items and limited forging. It uses same hose,bottle and regulator as my oxy/fuel torch.
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder
  • Thread Starter
#52  
Eric, Thanks very much ! That was a great summary !!
I am still leaning hard to get the Everlast i-200 MiG machine instead of keeping the Miller Thunderbolt and buying a separate MiG. While I can see a big advantage to having 2 machines (wrt setup), my shop area is very small. I have a cart, but the Miller consumes all that, and really I do not need that "large" of a stick machine for what I plan to do. I will NOT be doing any "serious / heavy duty / safety type / farm stress" type welding.
The mention about MIG brazing was something I had not considered / thought about. I believe the i-MiG 200 comes with what you need to use gas.

My next step is to decide how much to list the Miller Thunderbolt for, and sell. Where I live.... who knows how long that may take ? Thanks again !
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #53  
If a MIG welder you are considering is flux core only (FCAW) or does not come hose and regulator for solid wire welding (GMAW) just walk on by.. This goes for any brand or price range..... The mistake I made was I bough a welder that was to small for "some" projects.... I have a Hobart Handler 140 and it is great machine for home/farm/ranch work for light to medium projects, but here is a time I wish I had not been so conservative and have gotten a good 120/240 Volt machine like the handler 210MVP.... Bottom line is in your budget, but buy once, cry once, be happy for long time... And Just for FYI... I sold my stick machine to go MIG (only) and have never looked back or regretted decision...

As for TIG, probably not in my life time with my poor vision.... Tried it many times at welding demos at local welding suppliers and all I ever succeeded in doing was balling up electrodes.... Guess the is why I stayed with MIG only...
 
Last edited:
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #54  
Eric, Thanks very much ! That was a great summary !!
I am still leaning hard to get the Everlast i-200 MiG machine instead of keeping the Miller Thunderbolt and buying a separate MiG. While I can see a big advantage to having 2 machines (wrt setup), my shop area is very small. I have a cart, but the Miller consumes all that, and really I do not need that "large" of a stick machine for what I plan to do. I will NOT be doing any "serious / heavy duty / safety type / farm stress" type welding.
The mention about MIG brazing was something I had not considered / thought about. I believe the i-MiG 200 comes with what you need to use gas.

My next step is to decide how much to list the Miller Thunderbolt for, and sell. Where I live.... who knows how long that may take ? Thanks again !
Check high and low pricing on e-bay, put yours somewhere in the middle for local sale..... There is always someone on local "Craig's List" looking for a "deal"...
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #55  
Eric, Thanks very much ! That was a great summary !!
I am still leaning hard to get the Everlast i-200 MiG machine instead of keeping the Miller Thunderbolt and buying a separate MiG. While I can see a big advantage to having 2 machines (wrt setup), my shop area is very small. I have a cart, but the Miller consumes all that, and really I do not need that "large" of a stick machine for what I plan to do. I will NOT be doing any "serious / heavy duty / safety type / farm stress" type welding.
The mention about MIG brazing was something I had not considered / thought about. I believe the i-MiG 200 comes with what you need to use gas.

My next step is to decide how much to list the Miller Thunderbolt for, and sell. Where I live.... who knows how long that may take ? Thanks again !
You're welcome. I'm glad that I could help. It makes me feel good when I can help someone. I think the best thing about the internet is that it gives people the ability to share their knowledge and that people take advantage of this. And this knowledge sharing and distribution happens world wide.
Eric
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder
  • Thread Starter
#56  
If a MIG welder you are considering is flux core only (FCAW) or does not come hose and regulator for solid wire welding (GMAW) just walk on by.. This goes for any brand or price range..... The mistake I made was I bough a welder that was to small for "some" projects.... I have a Hobart Handler 140 and it is great machine for home/farm/ranch work for light to medium projects, but here is a time I wish I had not been so conservative and have gotten a good 120/240 Volt machine like the handler 210MVP.... Bottom line is in your budget, but buy once, cry once, be happy for long time... And Just for FYI... I sold my stick machine to go MIG (only) and have never looked back or regretted decision...

As for TIG, probably not in my life time with my poor vision.... Tried it many times at welding demos at local welding suppliers and all I ever succeeded in doing was balling up electrodes.... Guess the is why I stayed with MIG only...
>> Bottom line is in your budget, but buy once, cry once, be happy for long time

Absolutely - my thought process too. I *believe* both the Hobart 210 and the Everlast I-MIG 200 would work for me. That I can tell, both are 110v/220 V machines, and both come with what you need for "gas" should that be a future option. The real attraction (without knowing anything else) is the Everlast is a MiG & Stick, the Hobart is wire only.

Settings / Adjustments / Ease of use ? I do not know. Everlast, the company ? I do not know. A welding newbie like me, there is so much I do not know. But someone like you & Eric offering options is VERY helpful ! At the moment, one thing I think about is Hobart is "local" (Tractor Supply). Is this enough to sway my decision... ? Maybe not, but it is something I *always* consider brand vs. local , especially with an equipment purchase (gator, local JD store), STIHL (many local distributors), Miller Stick welder (local Airgas). I think a lot about parts, service and repair availability. Hopefully, not a serious consideration for a welder ?

Thanks !
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #57  
my experience:
owned a lansdcape and excavating company. The more employees, the more things broke. Tired of paying for others to repair stuff when i didn't have the tools. realized i needed a welder. bought a miller 135 mig. did most of what i needed, until i started to get bigger machines. bought a used arc welder to do the occassional thicker stuff but it still kind of was pushing it. Got completely sick of fixing things multiple times since they were not getting welded completely due to excessive thickness. If i had to take things somewhere it just felt like wasted money having someone else do it. Finally decided to buy a much better welder and got a miler 211 that could do most everything. sold all the old stuff and basically paid for the new with a good deal. Have never wished i bought a cheaper machine ever since but do wish i did it sooner.
Side note, my dad was really frugal and always fixed everything himself. this is how i became a diy type person. the big difference is he would make do with what he had and improvise tools. My thought process has always been different, get the right tool for the job almost without regard for the cost since a diy repair with tool cost will still usually beat having someone else do it and you then have the tool for eternity. My point, spend money on quality and you will rarely regret it, also why pay for multiple tools when a better single unit can replace them.
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #58  
When I was a teenager, my Dad explained to me that: I have an extremely high level of mechanical aptitude, and can fix nearly anything. And, that for me it was generally going to make sense to buy the special service tools to do the job, and I would still be into it for less than if I had someone else do it. And, that I will always do it to a level of quality and craftsmanship I find acceptable.

Fifty years later, I am certain he is right. Nothing bothers me more than paying someone to do something, that is at a level quality, and craftsmanship lower than the younger brother’s drugoid buddies would do.

And, over that fifty years, I have amassed a pretty large selection of tools. part of that was i used to buy tools from guys who had gambled away their whole paycheck. I would give them what the pawnshop would give them, and they had a week to come buy it back for what I paid for it. Usually they would come back on Saturday and buy their tools back. But, I did end up with a few titanium framing hammers, a few laser levels, and a Porter Cable drywall sander.
 
Last edited:
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #59  
I do agree that wire welders a versital but for some who might go weeks or months between small projects AND is on a tight budget stick rules. Why? Wire soon rusts sitting on the shelf or in machine. Stick electrodes laying beside rusting wire will be 98% good as new years later. Anything less than 10 pound spools is expensive and 10 pounds will rust before used so it's a danged if you do and darned if you don't if you try and keep various wires on hand to do different type welds. You can stockpile an impressive varity of rods buying a few here and there from pros for double what they paid in 50 pound cans and still save over buying 1-5 pound paks retail. Pound for pound,dollar for dollar,job for job and depreciation on inital cost a $100 Lincoln AC225 off CraigsList can't be beat.
A pro can make passable welds using a 120 volt mig on 3/8" steel but he will be much prouder of beads laid with a 240 volt machine,not to mention difference in time required.
Then what do I know, I wouldn't trade my 40 and 50 year old tools for all new Harbor Freight if they threw in an Alaskan Cruise to boot.
 
   / Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder #60  
I suggest you take a welding class before you buy anything. You will learn a lot and will make local connections.

It is virtually impossible to make pretty welds when fluxcore welding. Buy gas capability. The machine has to have a gas valve. You can buy the bottle, regulator and hose separately. Although that way would usually cost more.

It is very important to buy a machine that uses 220 volt power. The little 110 volt machines have their place but are too wimpy for many jobs.

Hobart is an OK choice. Despite the glitzy youtube videos and shiny paint I would avoid Chinese and Italian welders because parts aren't available.

As for your Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC, those are great little welders but they have a 20% duty cycle and if that has been abused, the welders are scrap. And it's really hard to weld 2 minutes then wait 8. So a lot of guys would not buy such a machine used. But they do come up for sale. I prefer the older ones with detachable leads. I would put the price range at $250-350. But it all depends on condition. Ask yourself how much for a Ford F-150?

metalmagpie
 

Marketplace Items

General Purpose Loader Bucket (A59228)
General Purpose...
2011 KOMATSU D65PX-16 CRAWLER DOZER (A60429)
2011 KOMATSU...
500 BBL FRAC TANK (A58214)
500 BBL FRAC TANK...
2014 PETERBILT 384 TANDEM AXLE CDL REQUIRED WRECKER (A59575)
2014 PETERBILT 384...
(1) 300 GALLON & (1) 330 GALLON POLY TOTES W/CAGES (A60432)
(1) 300 GALLON &...
GIYI RB66-66" ROCK BUCKET (A60430)
GIYI RB66-66" ROCK...
 
Top