Well pressure Switch question

[3Ts]

I've seen high reading pressures from corroded gauges and pressure switch. Just like other posts, I'd start by replacing both and I'd bet the problem will be solved.

 

[rodneyn]

So I have been worried my water pressure is too high in my house. If I can trust the pressure gauges ( one at entrance to 30 gal pressure tank and one near carbon and string filter setup) when well shuts off with the 20 /40 pressure switch at 40 psi, the well pump clearly can be heard to shut off, but the pressure gauges continue to rise and even out around 80 psi ( if I can trust the gauges) I got a new gould 240 volt submersible well pump 2 years ago that replaced a 20 yr old one, my well is 30 ft deep spring) I did try adjusting the two nuts on the pressure switch and now have it turning well pump on at around 15 psi , if I can trust gauges , and well pump shuts off at 40 psi, but pressure continues to rise to at least 75 psi. What do the well experts here think is going on ???

Pressure is pressure however if you have restricted flow pressure will still read without issue. I have replaced two 4” well pumps one from lightning strike and another from bad foot valve. Rule of thumb when you replace pump you change pressure switch. Relay contacts wear over time pressure can change. I run at 20/50 switch however I have large bladder tank to handle drop. Also bladder tanks go bad either rust or bladder failure. You can tell real quick on air input valve. If you press the center of the valve and water leaks the tank needs replaced. Ask your plumber these questions while he is there. I had to learn the hard way myself. I deal with fluid pressure every day in the liquid paint business. Pressure is pressure unless line is 100% plugged. Flow is completely different on restricted line pressure is constant. Hope you get your answers.

 

[Valveman]

If you are sure the pressure switch points open up at 40 PSI and/or you turn off the breaker to make sure the pump shuts off, the only way pressure can climb is if water is coming from somewhere. Many times I have found a buried pressure tank at the well, which pressures up to 100 when the pump is running, only to dump into the above ground tank after the pump shuts off, making the pressure increase way above the 40 PSI shut off point. Might also check the air charge in the visible pressure tank, as the bladder could be bad.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Thanks for all the advice, I decided to call local plumber, but now with advice here at TBN I am less likely to be led astray by any mischievous tradesman. At minimum I will have focus on him replace small piping with brass to new gauge and pressure switch and I have a new spare pressure switch already. Hopefully they return my voicemail this week with an appointment. I am going to see if I can find a pressure gauge tool that screws on to hosebib to give me a accurate read to calm my nerves in future. Meanwhile everytime I walk by pressure gauge in mechanical room and see it at 75 or 80 psi , I turn laundry tap on to relieve some pressure. ( but I swear it doesn't seem like 80 psi in faucets)

Given all this, have you considered replacing the gauge at the cross fitting at the pressure tank and pump switch. First thing I'd do is pick up a new gauge, remove the old one, be sure the nipple or fitting where it screws in is clean and clear, and install being sure not to obstruct the opening with teflon tape or pipe dope.

Seems strange to me that two gauges both read high. Seems double strange that the pressure doesn't feel like 80 PSI -- which you'd think would be pretty noticeable. Sounds like you'll be replacing some of those fittings and the gauge anyway. Why not check things out with a new one now?

We all love a good mystery so please keep us posted.

 

[Popgadget]

My process would be to first verify that the points in the switch are actually opening and not welded shut.
Then I would verify the pressure with a known gauge, either by replacing one of the existing ones, or at a hose bib.
If a problem really exists, the first thing I would look at is the 1/4” nipple that mounts the switch, and the inlet to the switch itself. Then spiral outward from there.
As far as having two gauges, I’m reminded of the old proverb that a man with two watches never knows what time it is.

 

[wawajake]

Plumbers are here right now, they replaced gauge at tank, .....it still went high pressure, ....so tested with plumbers tool gauge at hise bib and it is a true 80 psi, not good, ....feels pressure switch could be not working right, so replacing that now......fittings were fairly clean fo both . .....will let uou know outcome.

 

[Valveman]

Plumbers are here right now, they replaced gauge at tank, .....it still went high pressure, ....so tested with plumbers tool gauge at hise bib and it is a true 80 psi, not good, ....feels pressure switch could be not working right, so replacing that now......fittings were fairly clean fo both . .....will let uou know outcome.

Pretty easy to see if the points in the pressure switch open up or not. If they are open, the pump should be off, but I would verify with an amp meter.

 

[ponytug]

Progress!

A bad pressure switch alone would not account for the slow pressure rise that you are seeing; the pump is either on or off. Something else is going on, beyond a possibly bad pressure switch.

All the best,

Peter

 

[wawajake]

Mystery SOLVED !!! .....although you can't see it in my first picture yesterday ( hidden under old pressure switch) there was a small ball valve that the original house owner put in so he could easily isolate the pressure switch and the tee ed off gauge. That ball valve was severely constricted. So as can be seen by the pic attached , My plumber removed that little ball valve, and replaced with straight nipple to new pressure switch and repositioned new gauge over to the 1 in feed tee. . So now I have a new 30/ 50 psi switch, a new gauge and no feedback pressure. Well turns on at 30 psi and off at 50 psi and does not gradually increase further anymore. He did test the switch with amp meter and also emptied pressure tank and tested its psi at its shraeder valve ( no water pissed out at shraeder) It is 10 psi low so when I get chance I will get compressor and get it up to 28 psi like plumber suggested. Thanks everyone ! I think my urging my plumber about suggestions I got here helped us keep bill at only $600. And now I can do it on my own if ever again.

 

[ponytug]

I'm glad to see it all fixed!

All the best, Peter