Chains on front or rear tractor tires for pushing snow

[GreenTime]

I have a Kubota L5740 (57 HP) with Ag tires. Have a Normand 82" inverted snowblower on the 3 pt and 84" snow bucket on the front end loader. Would only plan to chain up for extra deep snow since I need to drive thru it. Anyone have experience on adding chains to front only for increased traction?

 

[npalen]

I tried a set on the front of my 30HP Mahindra with industrial tires and it was extremely bumpy on "dry" surfaces.

 

[TractorNH]

I tried chains on the front of mine the first winter with it but as stated above they make a VERY bumpy ride unless you’re driving IN snow with them. I installed GripStuds in the front tires and they’re excellent and not bumpy. I leave them in year round since I don’t drive on pavement in the non-snow months so they don’t wear out.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I use chains on the front R14's of my L6060 and they give me all the traction I need to push an 8' FEL plow.

The chains are cleated and do give a rough ride on hard surfaces though.

 

[LouNY]

The Euro style studded chains provide more traction then the other types of chains and also give a fairly smooth ride.
I can road travel on paved roads at15-18 mph comfortably, I usually run around 10-12 for reduced wear on the chains.

 

[BackRoad]

I know you asked about chains on the front only...

Just my experience - I had ladder chains on the back wheels. In snow over 10 inches deep, whether using my front snowplow or back blade, both resulted in the snow push steering the front of the tractor, forcing it sideways.

Traditional ladder chains on the front might help with forward traction, but are marginal in preventing sideways push steer.

Your location indicates North Dakota...Google says North Dakota averages 39 inches of snow annually, with the north averaging 10 inches more.


I'm in Northern PA...Google says we get 41 inches annually...mile long gravel driveway...portions at a measured 7% grade.

For me, the objectives are to move as much snow as possible - as fast as possible...and Euro style chains on all 4 wheels achieves those objectives.

Bit of pucker factor on initial purchase, but there is a direct payback in time savings and efficiency.

I have the OFA EKO BRAND, and I now - - OWN WINTER - - the tractor is unstoppable, I can push a lot more snow with every pass, the ride is smooth, I look forward to plowing...and I'll never be able to wear them out!


You might consider a pair of Euro style chains for the front, try them and decide...then you can always add rears if desired later.

I wouldn't recommend traditional ladder chains, they typically cause the bumpy rides mentioned above and for me, only provided limited performance improvement over bare rubber.


Good Luck with whatever you decide...//Terry

 

[oosik]

I had V-bar ladder chains - both front & rear - on my 4WD Ford 1700. It rode like a COB. It had sufficient traction to climb right up the side of a building.

I now have a Kubota M6040 - 4WD. With the larger, heavier tractor I no longer need any type of chains.

Boy - am I glad. I was prepared to get the Euro style chains for the Ford. I got the larger tractor instead.

 

[nyone]

Personaly I wouldnt have only chains on the front. The front is to assist not be a primary source of power.

I had a set of aqualine MPC. Low profile net chains that I left of the rear all year round. They worked great.

 

[JJT]

I've been running double rings on the rear only for the past 25 years. I have no issues with traction. They are rough riding on the road, so that keeps me from going too far in the winter, (that's a good thing).

I've related this story before. The year I got chains I tested things out. We had 12" - 18" of snow on the ground, couldn't go anywhere in two wheel drive. With the front end locked I could go about 50', in 4 wheel drive and the rear diff locked I could go 100' with considerable spinning, with chains on the rear in two wheel drive, (no diff lock), I could go any where I wanted. I've never had a need to consider adding front chains.

I'm a big fan of tire chains for those of us that get considerable snow or ice. The double rings are also great in the spring mud for a working in the woods. I do like the looks of those euro chains, they were not an option 25 years ago and I'm too cheap to upgrade.

 

[TractorTYMe]

My dream is to have euro style studded chains, but I have limited clearing under rear fenders, so DUO H-pattern chains rear, and double linked ladder V-bar front works decent for my use. I've got a nasty steep driveway.

 

[nyone]

I've been running double rings on the rear only for the past 25 years.

Double rings on snow/ice are nothing compared to any chain with a Vbar or square chain link.

 

[CobyRupert]

For pushing snow: back tires
For backing out of the snowbank: front tires
When pushing snow with the FEL in float, your back tires will want to raise the front tires off the ground as the plow encounters the weight of the snow.
Most of the time the tractor is heavier than the snow so you don’t see this, but there’s less traction for the front to work with…unless you raise the plow. This reduced traction is most often noticed when you lose the ability to steer using the front wheels. Yes, chained tires that are “floating” have more traction than unchained floating tires, but neither will have much.

 

[grsthegreat]

I tried plowing with only rear chains, and tractor front end would be pushed opposite way plow is turned. Added front chains also…
no issues. 10 years of plowing snow later, no issues. I never tried front chains only. We get lots of ice buildup here.

 

[TractorTYMe]

The Euro style studded chains provide more traction then the other types of chains and also give a fairly smooth ride.
I can road travel on paved roads at15-18 mph comfortably, I usually run around 10-12 for reduced wear on the chains.
View attachment 772641

I LOVE that big Branson of yours, seems like a nice machine.

 

[LouNY]

I LOVE that big Branson of yours, seems like a nice machine.

It's been a decent tractor I will admit to being a bit spoiled by the farms tractors;
the full power shifts,
the air ride seats,
more hydraulic options on the remotes,
better sound damping etc.
But the Branson was close to $20,000 less the IH or NH for 80 HP,
cab, air, heat, and the 540E pto mode, three rear remotes (unfortunately none have float).
I was extremely perturbed with it the first winter, when it was sub zero F she wouldn't start,
the starter wouldn't roll the engine over more then 1 or 2 revolutions. Even having the block toasty warm
and synthetic oil in the engine still no go.
I would have to put a heater to the rear housing for considerable time before it would start.
Changed the hydraulic fluid to a para-synthetic (Ce-Pe-Co multi purpose tractor fluid) problem solved.
My conclusion was the hydraulic fluid was too heavy for the transmission pump for the power shuttle clutch system to pump
at those temperatures which was why warming the rear housing allowed it to start.
Then she lost the water pump early in her life during a bad snow storm, and Branson parts are outrageous it was over
$400 for just the pump.
But all in all she is a decent tractor good power and gearing. A good heat and AC I keep running the idea of an air ride seat in her but
that would be $900 to $1600 and for the few hundred hours a year is it worth it?

 

[pike14130]

I run double rings only on the back of a JD4510 . I run a 8ft Fisher on a fabricated frame for the FEL, a 6ft 2 stage blower on the back and plow a 500ft sloped gravel driveway in western NY. When I get the front end stuck pushing the snow over a ditch the rear chains allow the grip once I tilt the plow down and lift the front out of the ditch and back. At $800 (2018) a set for the rears they do the job good enough so as not to have to call someone to pull me out and there is no reason not to use chains on front and back or to use vbar for being more aggressive. They don't tear up my grass when finish mowing the sidehill of my pond and I wore them out after 15 years of year round, as I cut firewood on my lot.

 

[stumblinhorse]

I have seen front only chains break the front driveshaft on both tractors and trucks. There is not enough strength in that part of the drive train to handle the force and weight of the entire tractor sometimes when it pulls the load.

 

[Jaygyver]

I only used them on the fronts on my old JD770 on R1's using the bucket and no wheel ballast, just my brush cutter on the back. -Aluminum- car chains we bought for our older explorer but never used. lol
Worked ok but still wish I had the rears.
We only average around 6 inches here at my house with the occasional foot or two sometimes. But I do try to take care of the neighbors and ours main road which is around a half mile or so to the highway.
I picked up an LS mt235 this spring so I'll definitely have to see about getting some real chains. Came with R4's and I hear they're fine in the snow but here in the Pacific Rainy West the mud hate's them.

 

[Cougsfan]

I have put them on the front only and the rear only. Each way had limitations. Now I only use them on both when and if I put them on. I have not had real good luck with chains on Ag tires as too many of the chain cross links fall between the tire cleats. Chains actually work the best on turf tires and OK on R4's.
I wish someone made tractor tires with studs you could screw in when it snows and remove in the spring.

 

[Jaygyver]

I have put them on the front only and the rear only. Each way had limitations. Now I only use them on both when and if I put them on. I have not had real good luck with chains on Ag tires as too many of the chain cross links fall between the tire cleats. Chains actually work the best on turf tires and OK on R4's.
I wish someone made tractor tires with studs you could screw in when it snows and remove in the spring.

Actually I think they do, @TractorNH on the first page has a picture of his tractor that looks like he has studs on the front. I do know there was a couple of outfits that made a tool to stud your own, been a few years since i've looked tho and don't know how well they worked.