Metal Thickness?

   / Metal Thickness? #31  
BxB301,

Of course, you will do what is right for you, which, is as it should be. Some of us write here simply out of a goodwill sense of caution. Yes, I built my own house, aircraft hangar, and workshop, as well as a lot of equipment over the decades. I have also owned a mini excavator since 1998, with about 2500 hours on it, doing all the maintenance and a few modifications myself.

Consider one aspect, when comparing what you've built: House, excellent! but, when something doesn't quite work , you can still live in the house, and most likely fix it ('cause you know it so well!) - I've lived since 1990 that way, it's excellent - I have never hired a repairman! But, when your mini-ex stops working, it's 100% not usable, and probably stuck where it is, taking your time, and not producing any outcome. That's fine, if it's home, and you have the time for loss of use, and to fix it. I completely rebushed and repinned mine shortly after buying it. All new Yanmar bushings, and I made all new pins, turned, hardened and ground to a couple of thou clearance to each joint. It was a lot of work, but well worth it, I've got 2500 hours of use out of it! When I think of making all of those joints to a good tolerance new, I understand, and shudder at the amount of work.

I suggest, if you have not already, find a mini-ex to run for a while. While you're running it, pay very close attention to "loose" joints, both boom and controls. Is it okay for you? Can you make your joints that good? If you're going to make your project with only one pump, practice digging with the mini-ex using only one control (motion) at a time. This will give you an idea of what to expect from a single pump machine, no or very little compound motion.

As for the weight of the machine, consider the balance of the machine when you start to pull on a tree root fully extended. My mini-ex is 3000 pounds (so very small), and I can drag it across the ground when pulling against a tree root, or football sized rock in the ground. A lighter machine would be even less useful this way. And, (having flopped mine twice), consider a seatbelt and roll bar. Sadly, we humans have a terrible habit of trying to prevent what we're on from flipping, by extending an arm or leg. That's a super terrible idea when you're on a digger of any kind! As the saying goes, if you think safety is expensive, try an accident.

When my student crashed us in his plane crashed us five years ago, I was wearing my seatbelt. I pulled it out of the airplane as I was ejected. 3 mounts later, I was well enough to begin walking again. Two broken ankles are not nice, don't let something you built bite you! Mini-ex's flip a little too easily!
 
   / Metal Thickness? #32  
Yeah I don't know any of these things, which I why I came here.

The first part of a design is to have an objective.

How much weight do you want it to lift?
 
   / Metal Thickness?
  • Thread Starter
#33  
The first part of a design is to have an objective.

How much weight do you want it to lift?

A 5 gallon bucket of sand - so depending on moister content, 70-90 pounds.
 
   / Metal Thickness?
  • Thread Starter
#34  
BxB301,

Of course, you will do what is right for you, which, is as it should be. Some of us write here simply out of a goodwill sense of caution.

I suggest, if you have not already, find a mini-ex to run for a while. While you're running it, pay very close attention to "loose" joints, both boom and controls. Is it okay for you? Can you make your joints that good? If you're going to make your project with only one pump, practice digging with the mini-ex using only one control (motion) at a time. This will give you an idea of what to expect from a single pump machine, no or very little compound motion.

I apricate everyone's caution, I really do.
I guess I'm just lost in the complexity of this.
That being, I don't see it being complex at all, and really, probably the simplest machine one would make.
Even the design, it not shifting the boom to the left or right so you wont have that side load to worry about. Sure, the center bearing needs to be beefy, but less so than the complexity of a rotating boom.

For the pins, I planned on getting a 1" ID pipe (or whatever the pivot pins will wind up being) and welding that into the boom - inside and out, then using a sand paper grinding wheel, grind the outside flush. If the pipe doesn't fit, you'll know your holes are off.
For the boom pivot on the body, you drill a hole to the OD of the pipe on both sides, run the pipe strait through the 2 sections, check for equal distances from pipe to body, weld the outside, and inside, then cut the center out of the inside, and grind flush - Perfectly aligned pivot points.
The boom needs to be straight, but the cylinder pins can be "auto corrected" with the use of a cylinder with an eyelet.
I didn't plan on using one, but I don't see why I couldn't?

The topic of the single pump has come up previously as well; and again I'm lost.
I guess you guys just have better experience than I. Every small or large machine I have operated or rented has been this way. Pull one lever, and it works great, pull a second at the same time, it starts to suck. Only exception is the JLC bucket lift I rented. You could use every hydraulic button your finger could reach and they would all work the same.
Forklifts, same way - if you're going up and trying to shift sideways, both slow down. On hydraulic propelled machines, going forward and then going up, you slow to a crawl and it hardly lifts.


....Actually, I take that back, my front end loader can lift and dump or tilt without any slowing down.
I never do, but now that I think of it, it can. However its pump is bigger than the Honda motor I plan on using with this proposed machine.
 
   / Metal Thickness? #35  
Towable backhoe complete $3500: 9 HP Towable Backhoe

This guy sells plans for them -should have most of the bugs worked out:

With the plans at least you would have schematics for the boom and Dipper stick that you could use even if you want to make it self propelled
 
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   / Metal Thickness? #36  
Ive been looking for years.

Thats how I got my dozer and Ditch Witch. I even have a Case 500 front end loader.
Which is way to big for anything I need, but makes quick work of moving large objects; you just dare not leave the hard pack, or you'll get stuck.
And pulling a 9,500 pound machine out of the sand with no help and a ranger is not a fun task. I tried selling that clunker a few times with no luck.
It seems I am the market for 50 year old machinery.

But I want a small digger, not a big one; mini diggers are few and far between.

Excavators don’t get stuck like other equipment especially old 2wd backhoes will. I’ve had excavators in bad mud holes and I’ve never had to get a second machine to recover one. It sounds like you might be better suited with a better trencher though.
 
   / Metal Thickness? #37  
Towable backhoe complete $3500: 9 HP Towable Backhoe

This guy sells plans for them -should have most of the bugs worked out:

With the plans at least you would have schematics for the boom and Dipper stick that you could use even if you want to make it self propelled
Following some plans will eliminate 1000 wrong moves. You still make some, just lots less. o_O
 
   / Metal Thickness? #39  
A 5 gallon bucket of sand - so depending on moister content, 70-90 pounds.

You could do that with pneumatics if you have an air compressor. An 1800+ psi hydraulic unit sure wouldn’t take much cylinder.
 

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