Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings

[Pettrix]

Have always done footers under the door. Even laid block under the door up to slab grade. We refer to that as a frost-wall. Laying block doesnt apply to you, as you are pouring walls.

Have you considered monolithic slab?

We dug the footings as a complete rectangle so there will be a footing under the doors. We will run horiztonal rebar (three #4 bars in a 24" wide footing). We won't run any vertical bars under the door area but will of course have verticals at 32" and 16" oc depending on the wall area that was called out for.

I'm doing a 5" slab on grade pour after the ICF stem wall is done. Entire garage walls will be ICF (6" concrete core with 3" foam on each side).

All the footings and slabs will be 4,500 psi hydramix mix (water resistant). $168 per yard for that mix.

 

[/pine]

just curious...will there be a concrete driveway poured up against the slab (depressed sill) ?

 

[Pettrix]

just curious...will there be a concrete driveway poured up against the slab (depressed sill) ?

I believe so, will have to talk to contractor on how he will do that. More of a concrete apron that driveway. Less money as a driveway will cost me a lot of money.

 

[jyoutz]

The SW deserts are on the San Andreas fault. There are literally hundreds of fault line fingers running off of the main fissure. The soil is mostly sand and rock. No doubt that added $150 cost to pour a bond beam accross the 2 doorways at the weakest point in the structure is a reasonable caution in my opinion based upon 35 yrs building experience in this SW desert area. I've lived through more big quakes here in the last 45 yrs than I can name including the 7.3 Landers quake.

I think you are referring to SW CA, but SW high deserts occur many places in the 4 corners states, and these are not earthquake prone regions.

 

[fatjay]

I poured footer and laid block up so the slab can sit on it. How much are you really saving by not doing it, on your $80,000 building? And if you don't, it's a hassle to work around. Are you also not going pour your footers on your man door?

It ties everything together, giving strength. It exists as one piece, the less seams the better.

 

[4570Man]

I typically build garages without a footer under the doors. Not so much for cost savings but it’s a lot easier to continue the construction process without a wall there. If the slab was going at ground level I’d probably go with a footer but when you’re filling the garage slab to above grade it doesn’t really help. When I pour the garage slap I pour it a little thicker with extra rebar in front of the doors. I’ve never had a problem doing that. Note I’m building residential garages that you couldn’t drive heavy equipment in if you wanted to. If I was planning on dump trucks going inside I might alter construction methods.

 

[Hay Dude]

I typically build garages without a footer under the doors. Not so much for cost savings but it’s a lot easier to continue the construction process without a wall there. If the slab was going at ground level I’d probably go with a footer but when you’re filling the garage slab to above grade it doesn’t really help. When I pour the garage slap I pour it a little thicker with extra rebar in front of the doors. I’ve never had a problem doing that. Note I’m building residential garages that you couldn’t drive heavy equipment in if you wanted to. If I was planning on dump trucks going inside I might alter construction methods.

Yeah that’s understandable. A lot of the old school guys did that, but then you only had 2-3 ton cars going in and out. I always view construction from a commercial or agricultural aspect and we always did a continuous wall with rebar. I think we even left out a course of block and poured the entrance part of the slab thicker- like 12” thick across the mouth of the opening for a few architects. Always was an ”overbuilder” and some of my subs hated me for it. lol

Here’s a 60’ x 30’ I built with 30” footings and 12” block below grade filled solid and vertical bar. Switched to 8” filled solid above grade

 

[/pine]

I believe so, will have to talk to contractor on how he will do that. More of a concrete apron that driveway. Less money as a driveway will cost me a lot of money.

Kust a suggestion...
With the slab poured first it can be advantageous to leave some rebar exposed where it can be used to tie the driveway to the foundation...can prevent separation...

 

[4570Man]

Yeah that’s understandable. A lot of the old school guys did that, but then you only had 2-3 ton cars going in and out. I always view construction from a commercial or agricultural aspect and we always did a continuous wall with rebar. I think we even left out a course of block and poured the entrance part of the slab thicker- like 12” thick across the mouth of the opening for a few architects. Always was an ”overbuilder” and some of my subs hated me for it. lol

Here’s a 60’ x 30’ I built with 30” footings and 12” block below grade filled solid and vertical bar. Switched to 8” filled solid above grade

View attachment 778899

If I was building an actual shop I’d build the floor sturdier but when I’m building a residential garage that’s only getting 8ft tall doors there’s zero possibility of dump trucks or something else heavy. I’ve set pallets in the garage with my skid steer though and I’ve never cracked a floor doing it.

 

[scootr]

I think you are referring to SW CA, but SW high deserts occur many places in the 4 corners states, and these are not earthquake prone regions.

I suppose you are correct so long as you do not live in one of these areas (see US fault map)