My Industrial Cabin Build

[WoodChuckDad]

I like those cabinet levelers ! I assume you have finished toe kick panels to install as well ?

Did you think about trimming out the windows before installing the cabinets ? Going to be a bit more of a headache now with the cabinets in the way. Nice work as usual from you guys !!!

The toe kicks that I bought with the cabinets are little more than a strip if veneer. But the will do, I suppose. As for the windows, the real struggle will come with the upper ones. I will work it out. The lower ones, we will use a piece of granite that matches the counter top.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Lamps that don’t have a ground. How does that work? I have been going thru all the lights that Jefanna bought. for the house. And I noticed a few of them have nothing for grounding. Metal housing wall sconce type lights with no grounding screw or grounding wire. How is this possible or safe. I could probably drive a screw i to the top of the metal mount/housing and ground it but I am just surprised. Am I wrong about this?

 

[BigBlue1]

Pretty much every hard-wired light fixture (i.e. direct wired, not plug-in) I've seen and installed always had a ground wire. I'm surprised there are some that don't.

 

[BigBlue1]

Is it possible there isn't any conductive metal in these fixtures so there really isn't a need for a ground (i.e. a wiring problem has nothing to electrify so there's no risk)?

 

[dstig1]

I would look a bit more closely. These days that ground wire is often a braided feather-thin strand that can be wrapped around the power wires or sometimes even stuffed back inside the fixture. If you can't find anything, you can buy fixture ground wires that go under the typical lamp nipple nuts like this:

1/8ips. Lug with 12in. Long 18/1 Bare Copper Ground Wire Strap

1/8ips. Lug with 12in. Long 18/1 Bare Copper Ground Wire Strap

grandbrass.com

Or if they need to have a strap put on them like below to mount them to the box, those often have ground screws:

1/8ips. X 16 Gauge Cross Bar with 8/32 Tapped Ground Hole

1/8ips. X 16 Gauge Cross Bar with 8/32 Tapped Ground Hole

grandbrass.com

If your strap doesn't have them, you can either drill for your own (ground screws are often self tapping) or swap for a strap that has it already. Both options above are cheap, but annoying that you may have to do it.

And yes, you want to ground everything metal. Not sure how they could get away with that...or perhaps they did not get a UL sticker on them and hoped nobody would notice...

 

[gary49]

Lamps that don’t have a ground. How does that work? I have been going thru all the lights that Jefanna bought. for the house. And I noticed a few of them have nothing for grounding. Metal housing wall sconce type lights with no grounding screw or grounding wire. How is this possible or safe. I could probably drive a screw i to the top of the metal mount/housing and ground it but I am just surprised. Am I wrong about this?

Are the sconces UL approved? They are supposed to be, but the inspector likely won’t be able to tell without looking very closely and/or removing the fixture or bulb to see the UL stamp. He/she is unlikely to do that, so you would probably get away with using some non UL approved fixtures. I’d either make sure what I installed was UL approved or if I wanted to take a chance with a non UL approved unit, make sure I installed some kind of ground wire on it. A sheet metal screw isn’t good enough, drill and tap it if you’re going to put in a screw. You’ll also need to use a green ground screw, the ones you use on metal boxes are 10-32, the ones you get with light fixture that screw into the fixture bridge are 8-32, the larger ones are easier to come by.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

I will work out the issue with the sconces, or I will replace them.

Dropped another video today. Setting the propane tank and running the poly kine.

 

[EddieWalker]

Nice to see how hard both of you work together. My wife refuses to drive my tractor, it's just not an option, and she has never, ever, EVER helped dig anything with a shovel!!!!!

Why did you go with pavers instead of pouring a concrete pad with a curb?

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Nice to see how hard both of you work together. My wife refuses to drive my tractor, it's just not an option, and she has never, ever, EVER helped dig anything with a shovel!!!!!

Why did you go with pavers instead of pouring a concrete pad with a curb?

Easier and cheaper. Going to put some railroad ties on the uphill side to contain erosion.

 

[747driver]

I always prefer using a pipe wrench but i also have those slip joint pliers that have the curved jaws that work well on pipe.. I have found that straight jaw pliers only work good on fittings that have 'flats' on them.

I know it might be a pain but i would take those pavers up at the propane take and then put down a weed barrier fabric that would keep the weeds from coming thru, then put the pavers back down.

 

[34Willys]

Slip joint 'water pump' pliers work a lot better if you hold and turn them in the proper direction. The blue pair are are being forced to loosen instead of tightening in that direction of pull.
Thank for the updates. I'm in the middle of a house reno and I've gleaned a lot of ideas and solutions to problems by watching.

Patrick

 

[dstig1]

Slip joint 'water pump' pliers work a lot better if you hold and turn them in the proper direction. The blue pair are are being forced to loosen instead of tightening in that direction of pull.
Thank for the updates. I'm in the middle of a house reno and I've gleaned a lot of ideas and solutions to problems by watching.

Patrick

Yeah i was thinking about mentioning that too, as it seems a lot of people don't realize it. Look at the teeth on the jaws, especially the fixed one on the end. You will see they are not straight but are angled back. You want to be pulling in that direction. In the video at one spot you had both channellocks pointed the same direction. That means one of them is wrong... They will work in the wrong direction , but not as well/easily.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I’ve never seen a gas connection like that, but I’ve not dealt with propane. I would have wanted the HDPE pipe fused.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I’ve never seen a gas connection like that, but I’ve not dealt with propane. I would have wanted the HDPE pipe fused.

If propane is like natural gas then those connections are totally adequate. Natural gas in Alberta comes to the yard at 20 lbs pressure. It goes into the house at 4 ounces pressure. Where the regulator is placed will determine the pressure in the line.

 

[ovrszd]

Yeah i was thinking about mentioning that too, as it seems a lot of people don't realize it. Look at the teeth on the jaws, especially the fixed one on the end. You will see they are not straight but are angled back. You want to be pulling in that direction. In the video at one spot you had both channellocks pointed the same direction. That means one of them is wrong... They will work in the wrong direction , but not as well/easily.

The same philosophy applies to a pipe wrench.

When using a specialty tool I've had my Son say "Here Dad, turn it around like this" with patience and a smile. Thanks Son!!!!

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

If propane is like natural gas then those connections are totally adequate. Natural gas in Alberta comes to the yard at 20 lbs pressure. It goes into the house at 4 ounces pressure. Where the regulator is placed will determine the pressure in the line.

Most regulators I have installed for high volume propane use are 12 psi at the tank, then another regulator of 11" of water column to service loads. 11" of water column is about 0.4 psi.

@buckeyefarmer above mentioned fused HDPE, it is always the prefered method. But not really needed at the lower psi of a residential loads. Fusion welded HDPE is most used for high psi distribution.

Edit: slipped a digit, above in bold 12 psi at the tank.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Propane in tank is in the hundreds of PSI. It leaves the tank thru a pigtail of 1/4 inch copper to a first stage regulator that reduces it to 12 PSI. Leaves the regulator in 1/2 inch copper to a flare connection to the steel riser that I have sticking up out of the ground. On the house side, the riser comes up to some iron pipe fittings and then a second stage regulator thet reduces it to 11 inches water pressure (about .5 psi). And then it goes thru a shut off valve and into the house, to feed the boiler and the range. That is the design plan it passed inspection easily. Had it charged to 17 psi for 2 days. Held with no reduction.

 

[ovrszd]

Propane in tank is in the hundreds of PSI. It leaves the tank thru a pigtail of 1/4 inch copper to a first stage regulator that reduces it to 12 PSI. Leaves the regulator in 1/2 inch copper to a flare connection to the steel riser that I have sticking up out of the ground. On the house side, the riser comes up to some iron pipe fittings and then a second stage regulator thet reduces it to 11 inches water pressure (about .5 psi). And then it goes thru a shut off valve and into the house, to feed the boiler and the range. That is the design plan it passed inspection easily. Had it charged to 17 psi for 2 days. Held with no reduction.

Exactly how mine is done with an additional T buried in the yard to supply two buildings. Each building having the secondary regulator.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

New video this morning. Building the shower pan.

DIY Shower - I built my own shower pan - First time shower with kerdi and hydroban.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Finding a piece of dark colored manufactured stone for the curb. turned out to be a lot harder than I thought. The big box stores have it in several shades of white and a very light grey. I ended up going to a tile store and getting some 24 inch pieces of sandstone tile that I think will do the trick. I have a wetsaw so I will out that to work this weekend.