Buying Advice on Hydraulic links

   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #1  

Torvy

Super Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2021
Messages
7,592
Location
North East Texas
Tractor
TYM T574H
I suppose these are technically parts, but they attach to the tractor, so apologies if this is poorly placed.

I am about to pull the trigger on a T494H (maybe a 4820H or T574H). I want to get a hydraulic top and side link. My primary use will be box blade work on driveway (200-300 ft) and paths. I have some questions for those who have been down this road before me.

1) Have dealer install it or aftermarket?
2) Options/features to look for?
3) Min-Max lengths?
4) Manufacturers with good reputation?

Installation seems pretty straightforward, but somethings are better in experts' hands.
 
   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #2  
I'm fairly certain that there is no OEM T&T option. But things change and maybe I'm wrong.

I'm not familiar enough with any of those models to say if the rear remote valves have options such as detent, or float or self canceling detent. They might all be 3 position spring return to center type of valves? (most likely)

All of those models should have the T&T cylinders built with 2 1/2" dia cylinders IMO. I prefer 1 1/2" dia rods, but it seems like the competition likes 1 1/8" & 1 3/16" dia rods.

To be sure that you get the units built correctly, the side link should be built so that when the rod is half way extended, the length matches the left side fixed link. This will provide an equal amount of tilt angle to both sides. Depending on what you get, but that should be either a 4",5" or maybe even a 6" stroke for the side link.

As far as the top link, look at the this link, get the asked for dimension and be sure that the hydraulic unit is close to the asked for dimension when half way extended.

Keep in mind that the models that you have mentioned DO NOT take the sames units. Both the top & side links are different for T models vs the previous Branson model.

Last thing, depending on the quality of the control valves and type, but you might want-need check valves on the cylinders.

I have not really had much of a problem with either TYM or Branson models in the past requiring the cylinders to have the check valves.

But again, things change.

Pictures are for earlier models similar to what you are considering.

Good luck with your search and decision. :)
 

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   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #3  
You need at least 3 sets of remotes to run the rear top link to have a box blade
with a hydraulic depth control for the rippers on a box blade and side link and
a separate hydraulic rear blade with 3 functions.

For the money your going to spend a hydraulic rear blade with all the bells
and whistles and four sets of remotes is all you need as you apparently want
to crown your road and it is very hard to do without a laser controlled grading
attachment on a tractor or skid loader.
 
   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #5  
I got a dealer-installed top and tilt with my Branson 3725H. It's run off the two factory remotes. They work fine but the units from MtnViewRanch look to be better quality.

The top cylinder has standard ends (cat 1, cat 2 etc). The tilt is different for different tractors. As long as you get the right cylinders, installing and plumbing them yourself would not be difficult.
 
   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #6  
You need at least 3 sets of remotes to run the rear top link to have a box blade
with a hydraulic depth control for the rippers on a box blade and side link and
a separate hydraulic rear blade with 3 functions.

For the money your going to spend a hydraulic rear blade with all the bells
and whistles and four sets of remotes is all you need as you apparently want
to crown your road and it is very hard to do without a laser controlled grading
attachment on a tractor or skid loader.
Eh, I just have a hyd top link and a HD box blade without a hyd scarifier bar, and just leave the teeth level so with the box level they don't really do anything. But with a little tilt the scarifiers do their thing just fine. I can get the driveway smooth enough and crowned for 20mph anyways, no need for lasers, etc...
just set the tilt manually and try to work down one side of the the driveway and then back, so I'm not changing the tilt too many times! I would still like to get a tilt cyl but haven't got around to figuring it all out yet.
 
   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #7  
   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #8  
If you have hydraulic remotes already installed adding the TNT is a no brainer. I didn't want to wait 6 months for Fit Rite and did a cheap hydraulic top link from Princess Auto on sale for under CDN$200 including hoses and couplers.
I got the 10 inch stroke and wish it was a little longer. From what I've seen Fit Rite makes a nice looking setup.
 
   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #9  
I have a Fit Rite hydraulic top link. I didn't get shift or tilt because I didn't know to order added hydraulic remotes when I purchased the tractor. It came with one hydraulic remote. Actually - side shift and tilt would only be helpful with my rear blade. I don't use my ROBB often enough to worry about it.

I would order the hydraulic remote controls at the time you order the tractor. Probably cheaper and professionally installed. Adding the hydraulic actuating cylinders - a no brainer. They are just a Plug-N-Go situation.

So.... when I use the rear blade for snow or ditch clearing - I manually set side shift and tilt. I could add two or three more now... but it would be quite expensive.

I got my Fit Rite hydraulic top link ten years ago. The wait, at that time, around two months.

My hydraulic top link has functioned - with nary a problem.

I've seen what Kubota has to offer - very glad I went with Fit Rite. Fit Rite is a much more robust system.
 
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   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #10  
I think Fit Rite is quoting 30 weeks for delivery now… so that’s not an option. Hope to have a top link in the next 6 weeks for some road work
 
   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #11  
I use a hyd top link on my Ford. TnT on my Kubota. A tractor without either is very limited. Both is the way to go if your tractor can support them.

Post pics of your setup when you are done.
 
   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #12  
I think Fit Rite is quoting 30 weeks for delivery now… so that’s not an option. Hope to have a top link in the next 6 weeks for some road work

The top link is standard and easy to find. The tilt link is neither of those.

I'd buy a generic top link and order a tilt link from Fit Rite.
 
   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #13  
The top link is standard and easy to find. The tilt link is neither of those.

I'd buy a generic top link and order a tilt link from Fit Rite.
I mean the HYD top link. Of course it has a standard top link. I won’t wait 30 weeks for a HYD top link when others can ship tomorrow.
 
   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #14  
I mean the HYD top link. Of course it has a standard top link. I won’t wait 30 weeks for a HYD top link when others can ship tomorrow.
I decided to add a DPCV top link to my Ford. I ordered one thru Amazon. $270-ish. Ordered it yesterday. Will get it Friday.
 
   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #15  
I’ve been looking at a crank version for one side of my height adjustment. Much cheaper and I don’t need to do it often, just often enough that a turnbuckle is a pita
 
   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #16  
Beenvenue - a shame we are so far apart. I was given a hand crank unit. Never used it. I would give it to you. I think this may be what you are looking for.
IMG_0240.JPG
 
   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I'm getting 2 remotes regardless of which model I get. They are standard on the T494 and will get added to a 4820. Sorry for the confusion, I knew the OEM didn't make them, but a good dealer can source parts cheaper than an individual and installation for an expert is faster and better (I know my limits).

Now I need to figure out exactly which links will fit.
 
   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links #19  
If you plan to use a hydraulic top link and/or a hydraulic side link, get 3 rear remotes if possible. You'll wish you had.
 
   / Buying Advice on Hydraulic links
  • Thread Starter
#20  
If you plan to use a hydraulic top link and/or a hydraulic side link, get 3 rear remotes if possible. You'll wish you had.
Do tell? Why? One for up/down, one for side to side....do I need one for paint the fence?

The T494 is already set up for the 3rd function, so you don't lose one if you jury rig it..

What am I missing?
 
 

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