We recently replaced the solenoid thinking it would fix the problem. It didn't. It will close for a moment with the key but once we go to start is opens and won't start. Wires don't look too bad, all relays click, I do have a lose fuse in the fuse box but I'm wondering if it could be the key switch? Anything I should check before I buy another part?
JD 770 Fuel shut-off solenoid wont stay closed.
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ROUSTABOUT
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That sounds backwards.
WranglerX
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On my SCUT turning key off operates fuel cutoff solenoid, and then releases after 8-10 seconds....
joecdeere
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lots of things are in the fuel solenoid system, as you can see in these two drawings (old version stops at tractor serial number 105,92)
I have a PDF of the tech manual that you are welcome to before you keep throwing money at it!, if wanted, send me your email and it's on the way.
I'll message you my email
I have a PDF of the tech manual that you are welcome to before you keep throwing money at it!, if wanted, send me your email and it's on the way.
I'll message you my email
Thank you, I do have the tech manuel I will have to stare at it a but more to understand what I'm looking at.
I wish the tech manuel listed part numbers. Does anyone know if they sell wires individually instead of buying the whole wiring harness?
It's a pull in solenoid. For some reason power supply fails when starting is not holding it in when running. If I wire the solenoid open tractor starts.
ROUSTABOUT
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Then it must have a low voltage control relay that has done went bad. Your low strength ignition signal goes to a relay that has the high strength. Your ignition signal makes the relay close and pull solenoid open. So, something has a bad connection or something has gotten weak in that circuit. I have seen those get burn spots inside that will cause a poor function condition. If they are big enough I will take apart and fix. The big 300 to 400 dollar ones I do take apart, so far, fixed every one of them. Trac hoes and dozers have big bell relays. But, yours could be too, I don't know.
joecdeere
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complete harness only
joecdeere
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look in your manual for testing the "time delay control module" part of it's job is to hold the solienoid open as the key switch moves from "start" to "run" kinda sounds like yours isn't making the changeover
Thank you, that is what I originally thought too but somewhere among the hundreds of posts I read someone said the time delay control only affects the PTO operation. I think I will troubleshoot that next. I just repacked 3 cylinders and screwed up and put the last ring in upside down. Wondering if I can get away with just using the blue seal that was in the bag in place of the seal with metal. I just watched YouTube video and it looked like he only used the blue seal. Anyone have knowledge on that as well.
Thanks, we do have the seat switch disabled or bypassed. That was done a long time before we had solenoid issues.
lots of things are in the fuel solenoid system, as you can see in these two drawings (old version stops at tractor serial number 105,92)
I have a PDF of the tech manual that you are welcome to before you keep throwing money at it!, if wanted, send me your email and it's on the way.
I'll message you my
You are correct!
ROUSTABOUT
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That circuit board looks to be all good. Does your pull on solenoid have three wires going to it?
yes
ROUSTABOUT
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Okay, one activates, one holds it on, one is neutral/ground. So if you un plug and check the tractor side, you should get ignition voltage at START. You can check RUN position also to find your problem. That should allow you to find which leg your problem is on. I just had same situation on a 150,000 watt generator at a farm. It works the same way. Has a circuit board too.
thepumpguysc
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U can test the solenoid on your work bench w a simple battery charger and 2 alligator clips..
On the solenoid u have 3 wires:
Black is - ground always, for this application.. so go ahead and hook up the - from the charger to the black pin.
Next is RED.. u can remember this one by saying, RED IS RUN.. it’s a low amperage HOLD coil..
Hook up the battery charger + to the red.. it should pull in and hold the plunger.
If it does, take the wire off.
The last is WHITE.. it’s a HI AMPERAGE pull in coil.. and is temporary..
That coil is just for starting..
Hook your + up to it but your going to have to give it a push to get it to pull in..
battery chargers don’t normally have the amps to pull it and get it to hold.
If all those test work.. u need to look elsewhere for your problem..
Most of the problems I’ve found are with the replaceable RELAYS.. and in extreme cases, the key switch..
I hope this helps..
There’s SO MANY QUESTIONS about these 3 wire solenoids, the mods should consider making this “a sticky”..
On the solenoid u have 3 wires:
Black is - ground always, for this application.. so go ahead and hook up the - from the charger to the black pin.
Next is RED.. u can remember this one by saying, RED IS RUN.. it’s a low amperage HOLD coil..
Hook up the battery charger + to the red.. it should pull in and hold the plunger.
If it does, take the wire off.
The last is WHITE.. it’s a HI AMPERAGE pull in coil.. and is temporary..
That coil is just for starting..
Hook your + up to it but your going to have to give it a push to get it to pull in..
battery chargers don’t normally have the amps to pull it and get it to hold.
If all those test work.. u need to look elsewhere for your problem..
Most of the problems I’ve found are with the replaceable RELAYS.. and in extreme cases, the key switch..
I hope this helps..
There’s SO MANY QUESTIONS about these 3 wire solenoids, the mods should consider making this “a sticky”..
The circuit board looks to have burned on the blue bubble doodads at the top right which I believe control the seat switch.
