Horse farm needs tractor

[big bubba]

You need a toy tractor from the dollar store. I'll send you $1.25 plus tax.

imho the OP doesn't need sarcasm but a wide range of discussion to make an informed decision. regards

 

[2manyrocks]

It's less expensive to start off with a toy tractor and make the discovery that you can't get any work done with it than to buy too small a tractor in real life to figure the same thing out on a much more expensive scale.

Probably any 25hp machine out there will feel like a toy compared to the old MF 35.

 

[rScotty]

I agree with your math, rScotty. I’m an engineer, we both know basic physics! But not with the conclusion that all of these loaders have the same effective lift capacity.

That table is not showing same loader on three different machines, as you stated, but rather three different loaders on the same machine (or as close as is possible with the -E). The 320R and 300R numbers were in fact taken on the same machine, and 320R has a greater lift capacity than the 300R.

Also, you choose your bucket separately from the loader, when buying. I can put the same bucket on both loaders, there’s no reason to assume the heavier loader must also carry a heavier bucket.

I think I'm allowing the same bucket weight on all the loaders: 200 lbs. Actually, that seemed conservative to me, and didn't include the weight of an SSQA.

I still think that what matters most is the lift capacity from the ground to chest height. And also the bucket breakout - which is a spec mostly based on dollars since it is whether the bucket cylinder is working the bucket directly or through a more expensive linkage.
I don't see where "lift to full height" is useful for much other than advertising fluff.

And anyway, I don't think maximizing lift matters as much as something like a good quality control valve because it so often it makes sense to pick up less and just make an extra trip.
YMMV, but that's how I see it.
rScotty

 

[Horsetime]

It's less expensive to start off with a toy tractor and make the discovery that you can't get any work done with it than to buy too small a tractor in real life to figure the same thing out on a much more expensive scale.

Probably any 25hp machine out there will feel like a toy compared to the old MF 35.

The MF 35 spends more time not running than running so I'm not sure about that.

 

[Horsetime]

I am also looking into MF, most likely the MF 1800 as they seem to be a long running company with local dealers. Again, budget is firm no more than 25K prefer under that. Not set on brand by any means, most be readily available in Indiana and long standing enough we don't have to worry about parts. Number one task is dragging the arenas. Number 2 task is loader work with the manure pile. Number 3 is possibly running a 5 foot bush hog on pasture.

 

[Horsetime]

One thing I have to say - these threads are great even though folks don't agree (perhaps *because* they don't agree)

OP, if you can step back a bit you're getting input from folks with both larger and smaller tractors and a good range of things to consider/trade-off/ask the dealer about. No one can tell you what's right for you, but hopefully you'll be able to make a more informed decision having posted your question here.

I've gotten some great advice! It boils down to finances and availability. There's a lot out on the market and I don't want to get brand blind and miss a better tractor for less, or get brand blind and get a lemon. I certainly can't pay cash as others suggested, otherwise I probably wouldn't be ordering parts online for the 1967 M35 every time it breaks.

 

[Robert Rivendell]

I have a small horse farm and have used a Massey 150 for mowing with a woods MD80 (80 inches). It woks fine for mowing. I also used it for arena grading, moving material ( with a pond scoop), and various other jobs. It got a bit old changing out the mower for the other equipment, so I just bought a Massey 135. In Kentucky 40 hp tractors can be had used for $4000 to $6500 in fairly good condition. I've had the Massey 150 for 25 years and it still starts right up in the middle of the winter. Both are diesel.

 

[big bubba]

OP: you're doing a good job at homework. so how soon do you need the new equipment?
btw, i used a MF TO35 (diesel) for 28 yrs before finally succumbing to my present rig. so your old school machine is great. purchasing frenzy runs wild, been there several times. if time is not urgent, step back & review before making the commitment. sleep on it for a while, regards

 

[Goose1776]

Sadly we're in Indiana.

We can deliver for free

 

[WinterDeere]

I still think that what matters most is the lift capacity from the ground to chest height.

Agreed.

I don't see where "lift to full height" is useful for much other than advertising fluff.

I'm often at full height when lifting logs over the side of my trailer, so it matters in that application, but most people probably never use their tractor for that. I bring home up to three trailer loads of logs some weekends, many of them pushing my loader's lift capacity. I think that for most, loader lift height is going to come up more often than capacity at max lift, such as when hoisting equipment out of a pickup truck bed (something I was doing this morning).

YMMV, but that's how I see it.

Of course. Good discussion. We all use our machines in different ways, so we come at these things from different angles, and we each prioritize things differently. Hell, catch me in winter, and I'll probably tell you my priorities are different then than today. We're all biased by the thing we're doing most recently.

 

[Horsetime]

OP: you're doing a good job at homework. so how soon do you need the new equipment?
btw, i used a MF TO35 (diesel) for 28 yrs before finally succumbing to my present rig. so your old school machine is great. purchasing frenzy runs wild, been there several times. if time is not urgent, step back & review before making the commitment. sleep on it for a while, regards

I'd say it depends on when someone sets the MF35 (gas) on fire when it needs another repair.

 

[big bubba]

I'd say it depends on when someone sets the MF35 (gas) on fire when it needs another repair.

hold onto the plow, it's a classic. Continental engine?

 

[Horsetime]

hold onto the plow, it's a classic. Continental engine?

Yes it does! So far we've changed out the points for a electronic ignition, replaced the governor, replaced the carburetor, upgraded from a generator to an alternator, some new wiring in a few places. Next up is a gasket set as it gets warm then it won't run. Love having a classic but it's time for something newer that runs consistently and doesn't have 473 unmarked levers.

 

[big bubba]

Yes it does! So far we've changed out the points for a electronic ignition, replaced the governor, replaced the carburetor, upgraded from a generator to an alternator, some new wiring in a few places. Next up is a gasket set as it gets warm then it won't run. Love having a classic but it's time for something newer that runs consistently and doesn't have 473 unmarked levers.

so after 28yrs of TO35, i retired, & went with Kubota. clueless at the time, i started out w/L4400, & eventually ended up with my current utility model. bought then upgraded several times before i was satisfied. (the reason i've been tough on you to look at a higher hp model but understand the budget)
having said that, feel like the ol' Massey carried me through my youth. but i could never go back now. good luck w/things

 

[arrow]

Yes it does! So far we've changed out the points for a electronic ignition, replaced the governor, replaced the carburetor, upgraded from a generator to an alternator, some new wiring in a few places. Next up is a gasket set as it gets warm then it won't run. Love having a classic but it's time for something newer that runs consistently and doesn't have 473 unmarked levers.

If is of any help, l asked the owner of the Mahindra dealership l work at how much a new 1626 would cost out the door which includes the 6.75 % sales tax.
His pricing came to 24k on the nose. This was a cash price with traditionl financing.
Since every dealership pays the same for their tractors, you should be able to get the same deal or better at one of the multiple Mahindra dealers in Indy.
This is alot of tractor, made in Japan, for the money having weight and substantial lift capacity in its class and will do all of your tasks easily.

There is one main and important caveat in my mind:
you should live near an established Mahindra dealership.

 

[WinterDeere]

This was a cash price with traditionl financing.

What does that mean? Usually cash means no financing, at least in my little world.

 

[rScotty]

His pricing came to 24k on the nose. This was a cash price with traditionl financing.

There is one main and important caveat in my mind:
you should live near an established Mahindra dealership.

What does that mean? Usually cash means no financing, at least in my little world.

Now I've got two questions... One, I didn't understand what cash price with tradtional financing was...but it probably just means what it implies. Cash price and he expects to hold that price with tradtional fiancing.
So my first question is, "What would non-tradtional financing be?"

And question two, how near is near? My shop sends the mechanic out. I pay for his driving time. It's about fifty miles one way. He brings their service truck. That is cost effective for everyone.

rScotty

 

[WM75Guy]

What does that mean? Usually cash means no financing, at least in my little world.

You can get the same price if you pay 100% cash up front or make a down payment, usually 20%, and use their traditional financing options. The 0% interest price has simple interest tacked on and then they determine the payment at 0% over the term. If you add up the total of the payments, the down payment plus traditional finance in the end may be less money than the 0% finance option.

 

[WinterDeere]

You can get the same price if you pay 100% cash up front or make a down payment, usually 20%, and use their traditional financing options. The 0% interest price has simple interest tacked on and then they determine the payment at 0% over the term. If you add up the total of the payments, the down payment plus traditional finance in the end may be less money than the 0% finance option.

I've never financed a tractor, so maybe I'm missing something obvious, but that doesn't seem like a very good deal. At least with autos, you usually get a discounted price if you're willing to finance, versus paying cash. I usually pay cash for my autos (as well as my tractors), but I've financed at least two or three cars in the past, just because the dealer could offer me a better deal with financing. They only ask that I wait until the third payment cycle to pay it off, or else they (the dealer) gets in trouble with the financing company.

I'm assuming most tractor companies handle their own financing, just like Chrysler Capital or Ford Motor Credit Company, as that's where the money is to be made. They're making as much (usually more) money off people financing through them, than actually in manufacturing and selling vehicles, and so it's normal to offer discounts below cash price, if you use their financing.

 

[arrow]

What does that mean? Usually cash means no financing, at least in my little world.

Traditional financing is anything you finance to provide all the money for the purchase itself. You can obtain your financing anywhere else such as your own bank, home equity, savings loan, Agri Credit, etc.
wm75 explains it very well.