Shear Pin Question

[navajo001]

First off, I want to thank you guys again for helping me with questions about fitting on a tractor. Tilt steering! Who knew?

Anyway, my new Kioti CK3520SE was delivered Tuesday with various attachments including a rotary cutter but no spare shear bolts.

So, I looked around in here then downloaded the cutter manual and it said (and you guys bore this out) Grade 2 bolts 1/2"x3" for the kioti. But how to tell the grade? I read up online about how to tell the difference and it seemed that mostly if the head had no marks, it's grade 2, grade 5 have 3 stripes and grade 8 have 6 stripes. So I went to Lowe's tonight to stock up before I hit the fields this weekend but every bolt there has letters stamped on the heads (I assume manufacture initials etc from what I saw) and the young dude "helping" had no idea.

BUT, they had a section clearly labeled GRADE 5 and one for GRADE 8, but nothing anywhere saying grade 2. So I left.

On the drive home, it hit me, if there are NO markings other than initials etc, doesn that mean they are grade 2? In other words, if they aren't specifically marked Grade 5 or 8, are all others default grade 2?

I don't want to tear anything up.

Thanks for reading!

tom

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

First off, I want to thank you guys again for helping me with questions about fitting on a tractor. Tilt steering! Who knew?

Anyway, my new Kioti CK3520SE was delivered Tuesday with various attachments including a rotary cutter but no spare shear bolts.

So, I looked around in here then downloaded the cutter manual and it said (and you guys bore this out) Grade 2 bolts 1/2"x3" for the kioti. But how to tell the grade? I read up online about how to tell the difference and it seemed that mostly if the head had no marks, it's grade 2, grade 5 have 3 stripes and grade 8 have 6 stripes. So I went to Lowe's tonight to stock up before I hit the fields this weekend but every bolt there has letters stamped on the heads (I assume manufacture initials etc from what I saw) and the young dude "helping" had no idea.

BUT, they had a section clearly labeled GRADE 5 and one for GRADE 8, but nothing anywhere saying grade 2. So I left.

On the drive home, it hit me, if there are NO markings other than initials etc, doesn that mean they are grade 2? In other words, if they aren't specifically marked Grade 5 or 8, are all others default grade 2?

I don't want to tear anything up.

Thanks for reading!

tom

You had the no grades in your hand. No slashes means not 5 or 8. Usually 3 is five, five is 8 and six is 10. But I was almost wrong once before and this may be one of those close calls. Metric bolts have a decimal number on the top. Stick with SAE bolts. You need double nuts jammed together, or nylock lock nuts, on that shear bolt. That way it won't come loose while you are in the middle of doing something, have to stop and put it back together to continue. Get a few extras.

 

[5030]

The stuff at a hox store like that is probably Chinese anyway so grade will be questionable no matter what.

 

[ptsg]

Leaving this here for reference.

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[yooperdave]

First off, I want to thank you guys again for helping me with questions about fitting on a tractor. Tilt steering! Who knew?

Anyway, my new Kioti CK3520SE was delivered Tuesday with various attachments including a rotary cutter but no spare shear bolts.

So, I looked around in here then downloaded the cutter manual and it said (and you guys bore this out) Grade 2 bolts 1/2"x3" for the kioti. But how to tell the grade? I read up online about how to tell the difference and it seemed that mostly if the head had no marks, it's grade 2, grade 5 have 3 stripes and grade 8 have 6 stripes. So I went to Lowe's tonight to stock up before I hit the fields this weekend but every bolt there has letters stamped on the heads (I assume manufacture initials etc from what I saw) and the young dude "helping" had no idea.

BUT, they had a section clearly labeled GRADE 5 and one for GRADE 8, but nothing anywhere saying grade 2. So I left.

On the drive home, it hit me, if there are NO markings other than initials etc, doesn that mean they are grade 2? In other words, if they aren't specifically marked Grade 5 or 8, are all others default grade 2?

I don't want to tear anything up.

Thanks for reading!

tom

ASTM A307 (structural) is nearly identical in strength to SAE Grade 2 (mechanical). The top is clean with no marks. This is the cheap grade you can buy at nearly any hardware store.

Yooper Dave

 

[WranglerX]

Your grade 2 bolt with initials were probably price codes for cashier...

Tractor Supply has grade 2 and grade 5 and and maybe grade 8 by the pound..... Probably all Chinese counterfeits though... Use a lot of grade 2 around property for non critical things, have not has any failures yet...

 

[5030]

I always look at the head of a bolt or machine screw to see who cold headed it. Habit I guess. I tend to buy LE, which is Lake Erie screw Company, located in Lakewood, Ohio, near where I grew up.

I also suspect that every fastener stocked at Tractor Supply came here in a container. TSC is real good for selling Chinese stuff.

 

[navajo001]

Thanks everyone! So, I know not to use grade 5 or 8 bolts for a shear bolt, and since I'm not sure what the other bolts with no hash marks from Lowe's are, I'll swing by TSC next time I'm out that way and see if they can help. Other than that, I can order a pack from Rural King since they have it labeled on the 5 pack package on their website. Was just hoping to have them this weekend and bolt then got flustered trying to figure out the Lowes stuff. After driving an hour to get there.

 

[RustyA]

Your new cutter doesn't have a slip clutch on it does it? Round contraption on PTO shaft near gear box with adjustable springs with bolts through them. That would not require a shear bolt as the clutch performs that function.

 

[cathy liebchen]

Add a slip clutch

 

[oosik]

I've got a Wallenstein BX62S chipper. The Wally OEM shear bolts are hard to find - always have to be special ordered - cost around $7 each. I use a grade 5 machine bolt instead. They shear just fine and nothing has ever been damaged. It's what the Wally tech recommended.

The word is - grade 2 is too soft and can stretch and jam rather than shearing. Grade 5 will snap right off.

 

[John0829]

Add a slip clutch

That is what I did to mine, replacing bolts is tiresome.

 

[WranglerX]

Grade 2 "shear bolts" $2.99 each, generic grade 2 bolt $0.79 each....

 

[sea2summit]

Your new cutter doesn't have a slip clutch on it does it? Round contraption on PTO shaft near gear box with adjustable springs with bolts through them. That would not require a shear bolt as the clutch performs that function.

Both is the right answer…and make sure you service the slip clutch.

As for the bolts go to a smaller hardware store like the local ACE/True Value, TSC, Agri supply. You’ll find them. For whatever reason when I break one I seem to break 3-5 in a few days then won’t break another for the season, maybe two. Not sure if the plate faces seat or what it is, just always boggles my mind and as a rule I always keep 5 of whatever sheer bolt/pin/key I might need on the implements. Way cheaper than an unplanned trip to the store.

 

[ruffdog]

Sometimes you can get a package of shear bolts like these King Kutter ones.

King Kutter Grade 2 Shear Bolt - 500101 | Blain's Farm & Fleet

 

[navajo001]

Wow! Very helpful group here. Thank you all.

I am thinking about a slip clutch but that would be a ways off for now.

I just found out there is a TSC about 45 minutes from here so will hit them up and see what they have. Buying by the pound sounds like a plan since I'm sure I'll break a few right off the bat. Never brush hogged before and the place is very thick and downed limbs etc. I guarantee I'll miss some with the grapple!

Thanks again and wish me luck.

Oh and hope y'all are patient, I'm sure I'll have many more questions!

 

[dougtrr2]

While you are picking up the bolts, you may want to get a punch to drive out the broken bolts.

Doug in SW IA

 

[navajo001]

Just wanted to give a quick update for posterity.

Drove out to Rural King after work today and they have the bulk bins clearly labeled and by the pound. So, I got 10ea Grade 2 1/2-13 x 3" and 20ea nuts (always dropping and losing them!) all for a grand total of $6.26. I was wanting nylock nuts but those must be mixed with gold or something - $$$! Also saw the package of 5 KingKutter shear bolts, but 3 1/2" length for about $19.

So, thanks again for pointing me in the right direction.

There will be more questions later about where to get a slip clutch, how to mount it, etc. Maybe this winter.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Just wanted to give a quick update for posterity.

Drove out to Rural King after work today and they have the bulk bins clearly labeled and by the pound. So, I got 10ea Grade 2 1/2-13 x 3" and 20ea nuts (always dropping and losing them!) all for a grand total of $6.26. I was wanting nylock nuts but those must be mixed with gold or something - $$$! Also saw the package of 5 KingKutter shear bolts, but 3 1/2" length for about $19.

So, thanks again for pointing me in the right direction.

There will be more questions later about where to get a slip clutch, how to mount it, etc. Maybe this winter.

I'd put a grade 10 bolt in it before I'd fool with a slip clutch. We cut horrendous things with our machines. So bad I'll have two tractors chained together to drag the one cutting. Has gr 10 bolts in since 1995. I've had to repair the ears with the pins. Beef up some other things. Never worked on the gear box. Not even a seal. Since 1995.

 

[masseyrider]

I can't stand shear bolts. Everything that needs PTO protection has a slip clutch.
Every spring before using I do maintenance adjusting as needed. Other than that 10-15 minute it has worked great for me. I absolutely used to hate having a shear bolt break at the worst time or being out and having to go for the ride of shame to my local supply place.